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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
(I apologize for being a lengthy post)
Well, I’ve had quite a conundrum with my TR6 and I’m beginning to lose patience. I’ve put a LOT of $ into this thing and was hoping to have it running last summer. Does anyone know of someone who has Triumph twins knowledge in the Reno, NV area that I could take my bike to? Don’t mind going out of state if need be.

I bought a ’69 TR6 basket case (BITSA) from a friend on the basis that he would help me get it running (whenever I needed assistance); let’s just say am still waiting for a second set of eyes to possibly assist me. The past two years I’ve received numerous bits of useful information from many on the forum (absolutely priceless). Ozbloke (Pete) has had some tremendous patience with my electrical questions, DAGAD (Roy), pretty cool he could tell me the date that the machine was “born”. Just happens to be my wife’s birth date.

I have the Sparx 3 phase with a Boyer electronic ignition (I do have a set of points that I may end up trying if needed), new wire harness, and a brand new Amal carburetor. I have matching numbers on the frame/engine, but obviously the cases have been split because I do NOT have the timing hole located behind the barrels that should be there for a ’69 model. I replaced all the ‘normal’ things sans splitting the cases (had been kept inside out of the sun) and pulling all the gears out. The previous owner, before my friend, had a bunch of Triumphs and used to flat track in California. Thanks to Caulky’s photos and going over the ‘basics’ setting things up from Choppedtriumph’s BTDC thread and the 68tr6 Boyer electronic ignition thread helped clear things up. I do get a distinct “click” right before I hit TDC from rotating the rear wheel (can only think it is coming from the valves as mentioned in another post) do not know if that is normal or not. Do not want to pull the head off if I do not need to. I do have ‘wiggle’ in the valve adjusters and all looks to operate as advertised while rotating the motor to locate TDC (rigged up a mirror to watch the exhaust side while rotating) and have good compression

I do get spark from setting the plugs on the engine, have recently taken the Amal apart, did adjust the float level (fuel would pretty much spew out the bowl while tickling; the Bushman’s carburetor link has been very helpful). Haven’t soaked in Berryman’s, but have cleaned everything and reassembled. I have a new absorbed glass mat battery, has held charge for quite some time (check it regularly after trying to kick start repeatedly). I’ve tried all scenarios from posts, Triumph shop manual, Haynes, etc. Since I can not get an extra set of eyes here with Triumph experience, I’ve finally began to get impatient with my passion.

I have the Boyer Troubleshooting Notes someone had posted the link to from the website; the electrical side of the house is where I get confused. Since I am getting spark, not clear on how to ‘check’ and verify all parts are working/output correctly. I’m definitely not a master mechanic, so I’m at the point where I need to find someone else who can help me get this thing on the road unless someone else has other suggestions?



I know it doesn't look like a '69, I like the '66 look and I just happened to get a '66 tank.
 

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You're so close - don't give up!

If you reckon you've got the boyer timing set up as it should be (or even fairly close), you're getting decent spark, and you've got good fuel/air mixture - try one thing for me (at this stage, it couldn't hurt).

Try swapping the two wires going to the Boyer stator to the opposite connectors on the plate - in other words reverse the wires.

If these are inadvertantly reversed when wiring up the Boyer, the timing will be out by around 50 deg retarded (and it will never start).

Stick with it - we'll stick with you too!
 

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I emailed my uncle again for you. Hopefully he'll find someone close to Reno Just in case you need it.

peter
 

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ignition Timing Verses Valve timing??? If its too far out there wont be backfire ...it was a problem on my TR6R....Magnetic bar in Boyer set to clockwise timing???..I'm just going through things that were wrong with mine when I first got her..

Regards
Gav
 

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Yes, make sure to time the little magnetic rotor to have it's dot appear in the BOTTOM window of the stator plate at the proper point, and that the blk/wht and blk/yel stator wires are properly wired per the boyer instructions, all the way up to the black box unit.

You shouldn't need Berryman's for a new Amal carb, but you COULD have manufacturing debris in the low speed circuit which might block starting flow. Eliminate this possibility by spraying a stiff squirt of starting spray (ether) straight into the carb opening just before kicking. If it starts and dies, your carb needs to come apart and be carefully cleaned with fine, stiff wire carefully run through the drillings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the suggestions. I have NOT given up, just letting myself get discouraged more easily.

I will swap the wires and give it a go .

The rotor does rotate clockwise and lines up. Had a white dab of paint on it that helps for visual inspection through the hole on the plate. I'll check my valve timing again.

Will pick up a can of ether on the way home too.

Many thanks!
 

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heh!

been there done that in every permutation these old bikes can come up with prior to these newfangled 'unit' engines.

when you fire it up it'll probably smoke a bit and hack a little from goop on the valves and seat and then clear up and roar like they should.

you'll probably be greased out to the max, sweaty, unshaved and glassy eyed with a BIG ASS smile plastered on your face.

get your sweetie to take a picture.

we need it for the archives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Have my troubleshooting list, just haven't had a chance to check everything until Monday. The in-laws came into town, but my father-in-law is a mech, just not motorcycles.

Anyway, we were checking spark and it isn't 'blue'. Pete mentioned "good spark". If my spark isn't strong, what do I do to 'fix' the problem? Is that a bad coil? Last check on the battery was 12.37. Going to do the ether thing first and to check fuel/carb, then swap the pick up wires (which do look correct).
 

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If you're running 2 x 12V coils in series for the Boyer, spark will be half-strength. Only ways to fix that is to either replace with 2 x 6V coils in series, or a double-ended (dual output) single 12V coil.

If your running suppressor leads (ie nylon/carbon core) instead of copper wire core, again spark will be weakened. Same if you're running suppressor plug caps, or resistor plugs. These are all used for radio frequency interference reduction, but also reduce the over strength of the spark. If you're using 2 x 12V coils, suppressor leads, suppressor caps, and resistor plugs, you'll still get spark, but it won't be of sufficient strength or duration to ignite anything but a perfect mixture.

2x12V coils should work OK if you're using copper core leads, straight through caps, and Champion N3 plugs, as long as your battery and charging system are in good condition.

You did disconnect the condensors off the coils when the Boyer was installed, didn't you? Maybe on the 69 the condensors were still mounted on the points plate. If so, not a problem there.
 

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Hi,
I live in Reno and am preserving a 1970 Bonneville. I found a guy in Carson City that is the real deal, he is an old school Triumph guy. He flat-tracked in the late 60's and early 70's and has wrenched the whole time.
Doc Johns Restorations
2211 Mouton Drive, Suite H
Carson City, NV 89706
775-841-5005
[email protected]

His shop is like the ones my Dad took me to in the sixties. Contact him and he will sort your troubles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
NeoDutch,
Thanks for the info! Much appreciated. Hope things go well with your Bonnie.
The in-laws are still visiting, so I haven't had a chance to head to the shop too much (it's killing me)!
I will definitely look this guy up, glad to hear of more Triumph riders out here as well.

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It's Alive!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Finally was able to make it out to the garage (in-laws left, day off work).
Re-checked timing (best of my knowledge), put the tank on, check wire/clearance underneath tank, wire from the coil to ground became disconnected from putting the tank on. upon inspection noticed the wire was chaffed as well. Fixed wire and spade connector, adjusted the amal screw one turn out vice one half turn, put a drop of gas in each cylinder (used a drinking straw), kicked over on the fourth good kick!
I was so suprised I almost forgot to turn it off (still have to put all the fluids in it). Will follow up with more results, hopefully it will stay running. Thanks again to ALL the advice and input, couldn't have come this far without it!

Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
NeoDUtch,
Forgot to add to the previous post, I did talk to John Hoy this morning! Really glad to find some local experience/knowledge for when the need arises. Hope to be able to drop by and visit his shop next week.

Bryan
 
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