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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of possibly purchasing a 60's Bonnie. The guy said the top engine lug "by the tank" had broken off.
I didnt know there was an engine lug up that high (I have a haynes manual on the way!)

Is he mistaken? Is there some other lug he may be talking about. If it is an engine lug, is it a big deal to weld one back on?

Thanks again for all your learned help.
Cheers, Kevin.

P.S. theres also no center stand -- is it a problem to get one back on the bike even it involves welding?
 

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got any vin numbers on the frame/engine? If your sayin the centerstand mounts are gone
think I would walk on buy unless it was really a cheapo

jus my pinion
 

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Hrmmmm?

some models have a "head steady" attachment up by the tank.

sorta unusual to 'break' one off. Vibration could do it, and a hell of a crash could do it too. if it's a casting lug broken off it's a pain to fix for a resto. Also any collision tweaks need the services of a good frame straigtener (pretty rare birds nowadays) to set right. having the front end alighnment off by a few degrees makes a bike a real hazard when handling and stopping.
 

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checking my J R Nelson and Bacon books , there is a head steady lug which is quite important. lt can be replaced as it looks a simple flat plate. Or it is the front engine plate lug which is even more important, but rarely broken off.You will need to know the exact year the frame . See it before you buy unless it is really cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Engine and Frame numbers match: T120R DU75943 (1968?)

He said it was some lug that connected to the cylinder and to the frame under the tank.

As for the center stand, im not sure if the lugs are still there.

Apart from that the bike looks in good condition from photographs Ive seen. However, it doesnt run since he tried to wire it without a battery and cannot get a spark now. Its been sitting in a basement for 4 years.

He only wants $3,000 for it and from what I havent been seeing online for the last 2 months my options are slim for a late 60s Bonnie. Theres not much out there unless you want to buy a restored one for 10k +.

He's 4 hours from me so if i go up there it would have to be a show stopper to not make me buy it at this point!

What do you think?

Note: just confirmed with my Nelson book that a "New Head Lug" was introducted for 1968.
If previous version didnt have it then maybe its not critical???
Im just wondering what it was connected to in the head --- could it have damaged the head in some way?
This is what he just told me via email: "Its the frame mount under the tank the head is fine there is no motor mount."
Im still not understanding what he mean.

Update: the center stand lugs are intact, just stand is removed. Good news here!
 

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Engine and Frame numbers match: T120R DU75943 (1968?)


Note: just confirmed with my Nelson book that a "New Head Lug" was introducted for 1968.
If previous version didnt have it then maybe its not critical???
Im just wondering what it was connected to in the head --- could it have damaged the head in some way?
This is what he just told me via email: "Its the frame mount under the tank the head is fine there is no motor mount."
Im still not understanding what he mean.

Update: the center stand lugs are intact, just stand is removed. Good news here!

Hey Kev,

Well if it is like the later bikes. You will have a strap of steel
that connect the two rocker boxes together. Then at the rear
of the strap it is a little longer so it can go to a tab that is
welded to the frame. There is a bolt that goes from the
steel strap to this welded tab.

Now this new mount is pretty important as it does help with
the shakes. However, for this tab to be broken, maybe
crash damage, or more likely is that it has seen a long hard
run. Something like going down the interstate at 80 miles
an hour with an engine that did not have the carburators
balanced right. That could have cracked off the tab. If
you go check on the bike take a real good look at all the
welds on the bike. If one is cracked there maybe more.


Hope this helps,

Pookybear
 

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hey Kev , can you get him to send you a pic of the break and post it here along with any other pics of it you've gotten ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
hey Kev , can you get him to send you a pic of the break and post it here along with any other pics of it you've gotten ?
Here's some pictures. He kindly took two pictures of the top end of engine. Does anyone know what is missing and if its a big deal to replace?
Other pictures show bike looks pretty clean. As I said, it doesnt run due to electrical issue, but its mathcing numbers and completely intact.
What do you think of the rear picture? Is it just the angle or does the wheel look further to the left than centered?
Cheers.
 

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lt looks ok, the wheel bending is a photo distortion. The tinwear is all there which is more important. No broken fins that we can see .Its not concours but the price leaves you some money for an engine build at worst. The gear box and trans you cannot check without riding anyway. Go for it, it will give the guys plenty to advise on over the summer!!.
 

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Looks like it's just missing the head steady mount on the underside of the frame stiffener. It's just a piece of plate steel welded in place. Will be an easy fix if you have someone to weld for you. With a welding blanket, could be done with engine in the frame (NOT the tank!!). Get the head steadies and mount them up, make up a tab (either patterned after a real one, or make your own) and tack ... then remove steadies and final weld ... finish with rattle can black ...

You could even get creative and use whatever head steadies you wanted, unless you're looking to keep this bike 'correct' ... in which case you'll also need to replace that rear fender and taillight, get a correct front fender and its other stay ... It also looks (could be a quirky photo) like it may have incorrect mufflers (either high pipe mufflers creatively mounted or 500 mufflers mounted upside down).
 
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