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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A small tip to help with chain adjustment.

When adjusting the chain get a screwdriver with a thin shaft 3-4mm and stick it between the sprocket and the chain at the six o'clock position.

Now adjust your chain so all the slack has been taken out and do up the axle nut to the required torque.

Remove the screwdriver from between the chain and sprocket, there you go the correct amount of chain slack everytime and you don't have to do it two or three times because the chain is tighter now that the axle has been done to torque.

It may take a few attempts to find the correct screwdriver shaft size and the correct position in between the chain and sprocket but once you have worked it out for your situation it is much quicker and more accurate than any other method. I cut the end off my perfect screwdriver, so now it is just a chain tension tool.

Good luck. :D
 

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A small tip to help with chain adjustment.

When adjusting the chain get a screwdriver with a thin shaft 3-4mm and stick it between the sprocket and the chain at the six o'clock position.

Now adjust your chain so all the slack has been taken out and do up the axle nut to the required torque.

Remove the screwdriver from between the chain and sprocket, there you go the correct amount of chain slack everytime and you don't have to do it two or three times because the chain is tighter now that the axle has been done to torque.

It may take a few attempts to find the correct screwdriver shaft size and the correct position in between the chain and sprocket but once you have worked it out for your situation it is much quicker and more accurate than any other method. I cut the end off my perfect screwdriver, so now it is just a chain tension tool.

Good luck. :D
I'm kinda having a hard time visualizing this. Can you take a picture of this possibly? ...Please?:D
 

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Great ! I tried it with a 3 mm diameter screwdriver...it works perfectly and it's effectively much easier ! Thank's !
 

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I'm kinda having a hard time visualizing this. Can you take a picture of this possibly? ...Please?:D
hmm...:confused: I think he means to stick the screwdriver shaft down through the links in the chain in front of the sprocket...someplace???

The only clue I have to that is; '6 o'clock position" and very thin shaft screwdriver. As I have not yet needed chain adjustment, I have no experience with this.

Maybe he could elaborate for us dummies.:D
 

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As I understand it, that would be the bottom of the sprocket, pull the chain down, and stick the screwdriver between the chain and the sprocket. Right?
 

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Help,Re: Tip for chain slack adjustment

PieMan,

On my 05 America I would probably have to remove the exhaust to get the screwdriver at 6 o'clock.I have my chain fairly slack right now as I have been trying to get the tension right after putting on a new rear tire.(Metzeler 170/80B)
If I put the screwdriver on the chain in front of the rear sprocket and turned the tire forward, would the screwdriver catch the sprocket & move to 6 oclock?
Do I tighten until all slack is gone(very tight) then pull out screw driver & will have 20-30mm of movement?

Thanks,
Jimbo
 

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PieMan,

On my 05 America I would probably have to remove the exhaust to get the screwdriver at 6 o'clock.
You could dedicate an old screwdriver to this job and in your case bend the shaft through 90 degrees so as not to interfere with the exhaust.

It doesn't have to be a screwdriver really, an old drill or rod will do.

Good tip Pieman.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Try it at 9 o'clock, adjust it equally until there is no slack, nip up the axle nut, remove the screwdriver and check the tension, if there is too much slack find another screwdriver/dril/shaft that is a little smaller diameter.

As has been mentioned, I have dedicated a screwdriver to this task, it's just a handle with about an inch of shaft.
 

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Re: Chain adjustment

Thanks guys for the quick reply's, I totally understand what to do now thanks to all of you. The illustration really worked for me.
I will probably put the 90 degree bend in the screwdriver tomorrow to save removing the exhaust.
I will be sure to post how I made out.
Thanks everyone.
Jimbo
 

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re: chain adjustment

I used a screw driver just under 4mm and put a 90 degree bend in it & it work perfect. Thanks again

In the shop manual we are told to put the bike on the side stand to check the chain slack again after adjusting. Any idea why on the side stand rather than on a hydraulic bike jack with the wheels off the ground/pavement?
 

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Thanks for that Ohio, a picture speaks a thousand words.
You are certainly welcome, PieMan. I knocked out a quick slide in PowerPoint, saved it as a jpeg file, then uploaded it to Photobucket. Obviously I didn't spend much time looking for a drawing of a rear sprocket!

Bob
 

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Jimbo,
Theoretically when the swing-arm is hanging while on the jack, it isn't perpendicular to the pivot point. This affectively creates a shorter distance between the front and rear sprocket. When you take the bike off the jack the swing-arm is higher and more perpendicular to the pivot, affectively making it longer and the chain tighter.
That all said, I tested this theory, and the difference in my chain slack was about 1/16". Not even worth the bother.
 

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just to confirm that I've got this...you tighten up the chain so that it doesn't move up or down (take up all the slack)? and that should get you within the margin?

That's super cool! Thanks for the tip.
 
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