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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Will the misery...I mean fun, ever end???

Just recieved a set of cad plated allen head bolts for the engine covers. Chain case went fine. THEN got to the other side of the bike:

1. Striped a cross head bolt in a very awkard postion. Can't get a hacksaw in there to cut a slot and get a slotted driver in there.
What's best way of getting this thing out? I dont have a dremel but just ordered one. Is there a dremel attachment that will fit in that small space? If I have to cut thru the case I dont mind since I have a donor engine from a 65 Bonnie I can scavenge.

2. How on earth can I get the kick start lever off? Workshop book says to use a drift to knock the tapered coter out. I whacked the threaded end quite a few times and it didnt move. I didnt want to hit it harder since im sure the bearings are not liking this heavy hitting.

3. Two bolts on gearbox -- can't get a wrench in there. I dont want to grind my whitworth spanner since its the only one i have. Long nose pliers maybe?

Thanks again for the help. This is frustrating. 2 steps forward and 1 step back :mad:



 

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Argh!

looks bad but manageable leave your kickstart lever on, if you are only removing case, just put some tension on spring by hand.
The screw you want to drill the head off it, pick a good! drill bit about the same size of the damage and drill the center to as deep as the head is long.Cut a piece of tube to go over the drill bit, as a guide to depth if you want.
and the nuts you will need a socket or grind your spanner, then it becomes your special gearbox nut spanner, the trouble with the spanner is the limited turn you get.
 

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hey kev , just put my dremel to work a couple hours ago in a similar situation only on my clutch cush drive . the small cut off wheels will grind a slot in that . then use a hand-held impact driver , the kind you hit with a hammer,with a good size straight bit to loosen it . btw those are posidrive screws , not phillips .

that is the way that cotter comes out . it's a wedge . try to brace it good , then whack .

nuts , those are 1/4W ? , yup it's socket grinding time . order another from britishtools if you feel the need bud it will probably survive just fine and you'll need it again :)

cheers Woody
 

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Is there a dremel attachment that will fit in that small space? If I have to cut thru the case I dont mind since I have a donor engine from a 65 Bonnie I can scavenge.
I'm a rookie at the British stuff, but have removed more than my fair share of stripped bolts from Jap stuff :rolleyes: Plewsy makes a good suggestion with drilling it out, but if you do have the dremel you can use it in a very low risk manner.

You can use a standard cutting disk in your "new" dremel. The disk may be too large when new, but you can wear it down a little on some scrap or stone in the year. It'll cut a nice slot. Trick is to double up the little cutting disks on the mandrel so that one cut is about a flat blade screwdriver width.

Another method, if you have access to a welder is to simply tack on another bolt to the head of the stripped one. The heat will help release the threads and the new bolt give you something to put a wrench onto.

If you get the dremel, it is the most risk free method, followed by Plewsy's suggestion of drilling. Me, that $200 I spent on a little MIG was the best money I ever spent :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks everyone so much for the advice.
Thought Id spend an enjoyable Sunday afternoon in the garage and well...you know.
Ill wait for the dremel to come (Tuesday), try that and if no go Ill go with Plewsys drill routine.
I dont have a grinder (yet) so will have to wait on the gear box issue.

BTW: dumb question of the day. I only have wood drill bits. What sort of drill bit set should I buy for drilling bolts -- carbide tips?
Ill be going to Sears if that helps.

Thanks again guys - you're the best! :)
 

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I've had REALLY good luck with some very badly stripped screws using the Sears "Screw-Out"s .... stick one of appropriate size into your cordless drill, switch to reverse, and go at it nice and slow ... it cuts into the head of the screw and removes it very nicely ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm off to Sears at lunch and pickup the drill bits. Can't wait for the Dremel set to be delivered. Im going to attack that bolt as soon as I get home!

This bike is starting to obsess me. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, well I drilled the head off. In fact I drilled a bit more than i needed to since I didnt realize the contact breakers were holding the timing cover on and not the screw shank :eek:

Anyway, still have 2 questions:
1. How do I get the timing shank thingy off without the special tool (or do i HAVE to have one)? The tool looks like a long bolt with 2 steps in the shank.
2. When I replaced the gearbox cover, I wound the kickstart a full turn and got it really wound up in order to get the kick start in the upright postion--is this correct?

Thanks again for these continual questions!!!!
 

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Hi Kev,
There are several ways to remove the timing shank thingy:
1) (My preferred) Find a length of studding that will be a sliding fit in the hole and cut a length so when it is inserted fully into the hole it comes approx. half way up the threads in the timing shank. Next find a bolt that will screw into the shank. Insert the stud into the shank and then screw in the bolt. The stud will press on the inner surface whilst the bolt will pull off the timing shank. A little difficult to explain but I hope you get the idea.

2) Screw a bolt into the shank and then pull with some vise grips.

3) Screw a long bolt into the shank with a spacer, use the spacer to tap against the head of the bolt like a small slide hammer.

I hope this helps

Good Luck

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
It gets worserer and worserer!!!!

OK, I got the points cam thing off (THanks GPZ and Webby).
Cover came off nice.
Then, I got my mole grips and tighten down on the bolt shank, turned it and it was turning nice, but then......snap. Thing just broke off :mad:

Now I have a stud lodged in the engine unit. THeres something about this bolt that is weird, all the other bolts came off so easily without a wimper. However, even with my corded variable speed Dewalt I could not get this one to turn -- the drill just locked. Its as if the PO put expoxy in there.

I tried to use my ez out but that didnt work so I didnt go any further and mess the bolt hole up.

Looks like Ill have to drill this out and tap it. Any advice? Ive never done a tap before (should I consider a helicoil?). Off to Sears again :rolleyes:




 

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OOoh dear!

You are going to have to work the screw in and out, with the tiniest of turns with plenty of w/d and maybe a little heat. First find an Alan-key (hex) that is a little bit to big to fit in the hole then knock it in, the hole needs to bit about 1/4" deep and you need to choose the Alan-key carefully, a tiny bit bigger than the hole.
Then try to screw it in first, if it moves turn it back out until it stops and then back in again. Continue doing this and the amount of turn you get should increase, use plenty of squirty stuff.
Do not use an Alan-key so big! it splays the shank!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Plesy,
Very good idea and thanks. But....no dice.
I followed your instructions to the T but after a bit the allen key stripped the sides.
I even drilled the hole deeper and used another key. And, I then used 2 different TORX screw heads on my drill and tried them -- and the bolt striped them!

The only other thing I can think of is a reverse drill bit, but really, after everything Ive tired, i doubt that will work.

Any other ideas? Or should I go the drill and tap route?

Cheers.:(
 

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Hi Kev,
You're not quite in "le merde" yet but before to attempt this make sure you are sober and smoking anything funny :) it takes a steady hand but normally works as a last resort.

Open up the hole in the bolt little by little making sure you are dead centre, drill all the way to the bottom of the hole (that bolt should be 1 1/4" long) Once you are near the maximum size you could start by reaming the hole (it's more precise) once you have reached the maximum diameter (the diameter of the hole) you should be able to pick the remains of the bolt threads out. Normally the bolt will move before you get to the maximum size.

Good Luck

Webby
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi Kev,
You're not quite in "le merde" yet but before to attempt this make sure you are sober and smoking anything funny :) it takes a steady hand but normally works as a last resort.

Open up the hole in the bolt little by little making sure you are dead centre, drill all the way to the bottom of the hole (that bolt should be 1 1/4" long) Once you are near the maximum size you could start by reaming the hole (it's more precise) once you have reached the maximum diameter (the diameter of the hole) you should be able to pick the remains of the bolt threads out. Normally the bolt will move before you get to the maximum size.

Good Luck

Webby
Webby, thats a good idea too.
Sorry for my ignorance here--I work with computers all day -- do I need special reaming tools? I see some reaming tools online but wondering if there's alternative tools so save me a trip to Sears or the hardwares store?
Cheers.
 
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