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So for the SW Motech tank bars, you had to remove the lower case protection bars? Yikes. I'll be honest. I'd rather protect my cases from damage and live with a dent in my tank.
I will eventually replace the stock bash plate with something that offers a bit more protection. The crossbar piece for the SW bars provides some protection, not too dissimilar to what the lower engine guard provided, although It's hard to say if any of the engine casing is more exposed as a result.
 

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Like those SW Mo bars...!!! 👍👍
Are the Barkbusters a straight simple bolt-on add...??
Those are a soon to add part.
The barkbusters were easy to add. Took maybe 30 minutes. The biggest issue was removing the crappy plastic stock guards, and then getting the mirrors aligned once they were gone. But it was an easy install and I feel as good about them protecting the bike as I do the new crsh bars.
 

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Wonder if there's been any more real world drops from folk with just the oem bars on?

I've got the Outback Motortek bars on, and not sure what to think. I've dropped it once, low speed on gravel and the marks were to the barkbusters and to the upper crash bar (this was with unfilled soft luggage on a rear rack)
Looking at the OM crash/slide video you immediately think "Wow, must get me a pair of them", but if they stick out from the tank, they're always gonna take hits, whereas without them, I'm not sure the geometry is such that the tank would get hit - unless it just happens that there's a protruding rock/grassy knoll in just the right place. Worthy of note that the OM video doesn't show what happens with an oem set of lower bars in place - I reckon most times you'd be fine.
With significant rear luggage on (and I'm thinking more hard panniers than soft) that just might skew the dynamics to force the tank closer to the ground, but again - dunno

Having a close look at the OM bars, it's difficult to clearly see how those upper engine mount bolts are getting stressed. Given the bolt failures seem to have been 'fatigue', the obvious assumption is that any crash bar mounting up there is creating a rigid link/cage around the engine/frame where before there wasn't one - resulting in engine flex forces being transmitted to bolts/mounting points that are unable to tolerate them. Having said that, perhaps the lack of a true cradle frame is the issue and given enough time we may see bolt failure in the oem set-up? I know that the fella's who've had the failures have been certain that they were tightened right & had the right spacers in the right spot, but I guess you never know if they haven't loosened a bit? So, mine are definitely at 48Nm, with the spacers in the correct place, and they're marked so I can check after every ride if they slack off. I'll keep you all posted if anything happens.

I'm half tempted to stick the oem's back on and do some 'assisted' drop testing, see what happens. Or at least get a big bit of ply as 'the ground' and see where the contact areas are.

I reckon we simply need to hear more from folk who've dropped it

Cheers, Stu
 

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2020 Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro
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Dropped mine a 2 weeks after I yanked the garbage Hepco and Becker "Tank Guard" bars off. History on that: Both H and B front engine mount bolts broke with no drop and no impacts after about 3K miles (and a lot of off road.)

Anyway.... I have slight damage to my tank after this.

761060
 

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Wonder if there's been any more real world drops from folk with just the oem bars on?

I've got the Outback Motortek bars on, and not sure what to think. I've dropped it once, low speed on gravel and the marks were to the barkbusters and to the upper crash bar (this was with unfilled soft luggage on a rear rack)
Looking at the OM crash/slide video you immediately think "Wow, must get me a pair of them", but if they stick out from the tank, they're always gonna take hits, whereas without them, I'm not sure the geometry is such that the tank would get hit - unless it just happens that there's a protruding rock/grassy knoll in just the right place. Worthy of note that the OM video doesn't show what happens with an oem set of lower bars in place - I reckon most times you'd be fine.
With significant rear luggage on (and I'm thinking more hard panniers than soft) that just might skew the dynamics to force the tank closer to the ground, but again - dunno

Having a close look at the OM bars, it's difficult to clearly see how those upper engine mount bolts are getting stressed. Given the bolt failures seem to have been 'fatigue', the obvious assumption is that any crash bar mounting up there is creating a rigid link/cage around the engine/frame where before there wasn't one - resulting in engine flex forces being transmitted to bolts/mounting points that are unable to tolerate them. Having said that, perhaps the lack of a true cradle frame is the issue and given enough time we may see bolt failure in the oem set-up? I know that the fella's who've had the failures have been certain that they were tightened right & had the right spacers in the right spot, but I guess you never know if they haven't loosened a bit? So, mine are definitely at 48Nm, with the spacers in the correct place, and they're marked so I can check after every ride if they slack off. I'll keep you all posted if anything happens.

I'm half tempted to stick the oem's back on and do some 'assisted' drop testing, see what happens. Or at least get a big bit of ply as 'the ground' and see where the contact areas are.

I reckon we simply need to hear more from folk who've dropped it

Cheers, Stu
A long time ago I dropped my GTpro in the garage and posted photos of contact points on this forum.
 

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I dropped my bike once with the H&B bars on. It was a slow tip over. The main impact was on the hand guard (cheap plastic OEM which snapped but no damage to the lever) and the H&B bar took a small ht as well. I can try to figure out if it took a hit only because they protrude beyond the tank. But I know I felt better with them on, and now I feel even better with the SW bars. Having had both, it feels like the SW bars with BB hand guards will provide the right amount of safety.
 

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2020 Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro
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Quick update - I received a PM from one of the inmates at advrider who had the original H&B tank guard (not the solid version) and he also had a bolt shear off.
There are a number of people who have reported bolt breakage with the H and B bars. (I believe I was the first victim) One of these victims reached out to me on my Youtube video on this issue to let me know.

People are playing with fire with these bars mounted to those front engine mount points.
 

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Its a curious situation with the Outback Motortek bars. Part of me wonders if the breakages are a Tiger-specific situation that really only becomes apparent as part of the customer-testing phase. I've spoken to another 900 Tiger owner here, who has put OM bars on his new 900. He reported that this is his third bike with the OM bars and he has never had any issues, and is very happy with them.

Another friend here has OM bars on his BMW F700Gs and likes them, though he did have some quality issues with the bars; a bracket was welded on backwards on one piece.

I had SW on my F800GS (came with the bike) and they did not seem as robust as the OM bars, but I never tested them. And again, we may find that on particular brand or design is best, in the long term, for the new Tigers.

Just my morning musings.
 

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Its a curious situation with the Outback Motortek bars. Part of me wonders if the breakages are a Tiger-specific situation that really only becomes apparent as part of the customer-testing phase. I've spoken to another 900 Tiger owner here, who has put OM bars on his new 900. He reported that this is his third bike with the OM bars and he has never had any issues, and is very happy with them.

Another friend here has OM bars on his BMW F700Gs and likes them, though he did have some quality issues with the bars; a bracket was welded on backwards on one piece.

I had SW on my F800GS (came with the bike) and they did not seem as robust as the OM bars, but I never tested them. And again, we may find that on particular brand or design is best, in the long term, for the new Tigers.

Just my morning musings.
I had SW bars on my F700GS and I really liked them but initially rejected them for the Tiger mainly because they didn't look like they'd protect the tank as well, and they required replacing the OEM lower engine guard - which of course I had paid for with my RP. In hindsight though, I like the weight savings of the SWs without the lower guard, and now that they are mounted, I feel confident they will protect the tank (combined with BB hand guards). Anyway, I will report back if I have any significant drops but they are solid and I'm happier with them, than the H&Bs for a bunch of reasons I called out earlier in the thread.
 

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Was gonna just stick the OEM things back on...

But the more I look at the engine mounts & the upper bars, the less I see wrong with them, assuming they're fitted right.
I recall fitting the upper bolts as being a major PITA, my usual torque wrench wouldn't fit (I was using a slightly larger & longer impact socket to avoid stripping the hex head), so I tightened 'em to what I thought was seriously tight with a normal non-torque wrench.

After reading these issues with bolt failures - went back out and did it right. Removed or loosened as much as possible all around those mounts, so that I could get access with the big torque. Took a good bit more rotation to get em up to 48Nm, so I suspect I was way off with my initial go.

From what I've read H&B never gave torques for their bars, so maybe the fatigue is due to folk undertightening them?
I'm not having a pop or questioning anyone's ability - I'm a (very) amateur mechanic at best - but I certainly wouldn't have tightened such a relatively long & small diameter hex head bolt to 48Nm unless specifically advised to. Even doing it made me pucker up thinking it would strip or snap - it's a heck of a lot of force. Plus there's the (easy to miss or misplace) spacer issue and the fact one fella said he had to 'hammer' a bit on one bar to get it to fit. Maybe there's some manufacturing issues with a certain batch - or maybe I'm just trying to justify not takin' em off!

So, I reckon I'm leaving them on - if it breaks I'll be sure to let you all know - not the end of the world as they look removable with a bush, extractor and a bit of hard work - tank would have to come off maybe. Once again, not looking to start arguments or suggesting anyone here has done the wrong thing - just observations.

Only issue would be I don't do as much hard off-road which may make all the difference...

Cheers, Stu.
 

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What I'm also hinting at is that they're in such a difficult spot - it's easy to rely on what you think is enough torque 'cos you can't get in there with the right tools in the first place - I know I did.
 

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I had SW bars on my F700GS and I really liked them but initially rejected them for the Tiger mainly because they didn't look like they'd protect the tank as well, and they required replacing the OEM lower engine guard - which of course I had paid for with my RP. In hindsight though, I like the weight savings of the SWs without the lower guard, and now that they are mounted, I feel confident they will protect the tank (combined with BB hand guards). Anyway, I will report back if I have any significant drops but they are solid and I'm happier with them, than the H&Bs for a bunch of reasons I called out earlier in the thread.
Looking at this French review (use YouTube desktop for translated subtitles) who thoroughly tested the SW bars, I think you're fine. I have them on my GT Pro and I only use the bike on the tarmac, so for me it sufficiently protected.

 

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Good video, thanks. Even though it was not in the subtitles, at about 13:20 he mentions that the upper bar needs to be removed or loosened to removal the lower, triangular plastic trim piece. SW, H & B, Touratech and Outback Motortek. Possibly interesting, I think that there is some commonality in the design of all crash bars, in that they have come to similar design decisions, geometrically, regarding what shape gives good protection in the area below the tank.

Prices are different for North Americal as well, but probably that varies in many places.
 

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SW-Motech Crash Bars arrived last week. Installed them and took the bike on some local two track. Got in some deep sand and dropped the bike on it's right side at about 15mph (I'm blaming the stock tires ;)). Very minor scrapes, only on the crash bars; can barely tell from 18 inches away. Checked all the fittings and bolts. Everything is good on torque specs. Removed the highest mounting point bolts to check for shearing. Both sides are fine and were at proper torque, no shearing here.

All-in-all, I'm quite happy with the crash bars and skid plate. Easy enough install. Great fit and finish. I am a bit worried about the case on the left side of the bike. Seems a bit exposed. I ordered some OM Pannier Racks & Barkbusters. I am hoping those should help in the next drop.

The picture below will give you an idea of the track I was on, as well as what I mean about the exposed case on the left side. Taken four minutes before the drop.

762283
 
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