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Discussion Starter #1
finally started the job i have been putting off since i got the bike.i want a bare bones look which means no side covers and moving all that crap from behind them.i have done the easy bits carb heaters,accessory socket and sidestand switch.im looking at the fuse box and wondering what can be done here.has any body got their bike running on a thined out fuse system one ore two fuses?and what are the consequencess of removing the headlight cut out relay?

Al.
 

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man ive been wanting to do this for so long! my biggest hurdle is the battery. the easiest way to move it is to get a hump-style seat and place the battery under it but i dont want to lose my 2-up seating.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
im happy to leave the battery in situ i will probably make a new box for it .im just trying to figure out just what i can remove.i know for example that the side stand switch needs to be bridged but does the clutch switch also need to be or can it just be removed?the reason it has taken so long to get around to doing it is because i hate wiring i think im a bit affraid of it.but it just has to get done if i am going to achieve the look i initialy visualized when i started.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
maybee a bit too far????? i have not done a great deal of cutting yet but i have been labeling everything and following all the individual components to get my head round the schematic in the haynes manual.at least now i can account for all the wiring and have a better idea of where it all goes.i think iff i just place each component where i want it and just lengthen/shorten wires accordingly i cant go far wrong.
pictured also is a plywood plug i have made for a new fibreglass seat.
 

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Things you can do to simplify the harness:

1.) Remove the alarm connector (Look at the wiring diagram to see what all this takes with it. It's a lot. You need to maintain the two connections currently made by the plug, but you can trace these up the harness and remove a lot of wire. If you want more detail on this, PM me, but it's not too hard to figure out from the diagram.)

2.) Remove the sidestand switch and clutch switch. Trace the pink/black wire from the clutch switch to the diode pack, and remove it too. Short the pink/black wire from the starter relay connector to ground. At the ignitor connector, short terminal 9 to ground (terminal 1). That's the same as shorting both switches, but takes a lot of wire and the now-unnecessary diode pack with it.

3.) Remove the following and their wiring:
- accessory power connector
- second coil connectors (if it's an '06 or newer, your Thrux may have the extra connectors for the Scrambler's second coil)
- EVLS valve connectors
- AI valve connector
- Carb heater connectors, thermostat, and a bunch of wiring that goes with that (if the bike doesn't see cold weather or has aftermarket carbs)
- Any other random unhooked connectors you find in the harness (I've found two on the Scrambler... no idea what they do, they're not on the wiring diagram, and it still works fine without them)

4.) Move the the regulator/rectifier to the rear of the bike (swap it for a better unit at the same time), and remove about 5 yards of heavy gauge wire.


That's about as far as you can go unless you can remove the turn signals, want to replace all the connectors, swap gauges, etc., in which case the spare wire pile can get even bigger. I still haven't pulled the alarm connector on mine, but at this point I'm just waiting for time to do it. I've also left the carb heater alone, because I do ride in cold weather, and I'm running the stock r/r while hunting for a deal on a better one.

Looks good so far. Keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for the advice.can i just clarify if i bridge connections 1&9 on the icu(fooling it to believe sidestand is up) this then renders the clutch switch and the diode obselete and can be removed?i just want to be extra carefull here as i have to admit wiring is not my trump card.

many thanks, Al.
 

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thanks for the advice.can i just clarify if i bridge connections 1&9 on the icu(fooling it to believe sidestand is up) this then renders the clutch switch and the diode obselete and can be removed?i just want to be extra carefull here as i have to admit wiring is not my trump card.

many thanks, Al.
Yep. Pretty much. To tell you what's actually going on, though...

On the ignitor/icu, terminal 1 is the main ground. The icu looks for either terminal 9 or terminal 10 to also be grounded before it'll fire the coil. Terminal 10 sees ground if the neutral switch is closed (the bike is in neutral). Terminal 9 sees ground if the sidestand switch is closed (the sidestand is up). All you're doing is shorting terminal 9 to ground, so the icu always thinks the sidestand is up, and will always fire the coil. At this point, the sidestand switch can be completely removed. There will still be a wire from terminal 9 to the clutch switch which cannot yet be removed, because...

At this point, the clutch switch is not obsolete. If the bike is in gear, you still need the clutch in to start it. You mentioned wanting to remove the clutch switch though, so you have a couple of options to do that. Either way, find the pink/black wire from the clutch switch and trace it to the diode pack (mine was taped up into the harness under the tank, but yours might be elsewhere). Once you find the diode pack...

-- If you want the starter relay to operate only when the bike is in neutral (meaning you can't start the bike in gear at all), remove the diode pack and connect the other pink/black wire (not the one going to the clutch switch, but the one going to the starter relay) to the white/black wire. The starter relay's control circuit can now find a ground through the neutral switch when it's closed, but not otherwise, so the bike will only start when it's in neutral.

-- If you want the starter to operate whenever you hit the button, regardless of whether it's in gear (this is what I assumed before), remove the diode pack, then trace the remaining pink/black wire back to the starter relay. Cut it somewhere convenient and attach it to a ground (there's one really close by in the harness going to the icu... it's a bunch of black wires coming together... you'll see it when you get the tape off of everything). Go back to where the diode pack was and trace the last remaining wire (white/black) to where it connects to another white/black wire. Remove the wire going to the diode pack, leaving the other white/black wire intact (this is just clean-up). The starter relay now always sees ground, so the bike will start whenever you hit the button. (I assume you understand what will happen if you try to start the bike in gear with the clutch out if you do this.)

If you don't want to remove the clutch switch, find the red/black wire coming from the clutch switch and connect it to the nearest ground (I don't know what's convenient for that, but there should be something). This isn't really necessary, but it does mean you don't have to run the wire all the way back to terminal 9 on the icu anymore.

Clear as mud, right? Feel free to ask any more questions, and I'll do my best.

Also, check your PMs in a bit in regard to that other issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok thanks alot for the advice .sounds more complex than it is.i printed this page and took it with me and it all makes sense with the loom infront of me.i have included some pics.i ran out of time so i will tackle the rest tomorow.
i have also decided to buy a much smaller headlight.also in the pics is my new speedo tach from acewell.the headers are also off as have ordered new ones from dale at speciality spares and some short reverse cones off ebay.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
its not installed yet but the site is www.acewell.com im happy with the finish and build quality. looks good for the price, comes with instructions and all you need for instalation.its a poor mans motogadget i guess they have alot of products to choose from.i will let you know more when the bikes running again.
Al.
 

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Nickletooth,
I saw a photo in a thread awhile back that this chap removed the side covers and relocated everything and it was SO CLEAN!
Off to get a beer and I'll see if I can find it when I get home...
I relocated most all wiring but opted to keep the side covers...
Still, it really helped the looks...
 

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i have also decided to buy a much smaller headlight.also in the pics is my new speedo tach from acewell.the headers are also off as have ordered new ones from dale at speciality spares and some short reverse cones off ebay.
A bit off topic, but which front end are you running on your machine? I currently have a set of honda F3 forks waiting in the garage for fitting, but am curious which direction you took yours...

Cheers,

--Rich
 

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Discussion Starter #19
my front end is off an 06 daytona 675.not a sraight swap but not overly complicated either.search for daytona 675 front end conversion on this site for detales.

i have to leave this wiring job for a while as we have visitors but i will pick up this thread again when i get back into it.

Al.
 

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I wish I had researched wiring before I started mine, I chopped, hacked, sliced and diced but made sure everything kept working. Then decided to wire in the RS Sprint clocks without the aid of a decent wiring diagram or a ECU. Here I am 2 years later and by some miracle every thing still works great.

I took out all the wiring for the side stand, clutch switch, carb heaters, all handle bar connector blocks added in the Sprint clocks, dual headlights and LED indicators

Nothing was easy but all worked out fine





 
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