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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just finished the engine rebuild on my 340,000 mile 1993 Trident. I took my time thanks to a spare engine I was convinced I'd need 200,000 miles ago, but I admit nine months is a bit lazy.....
She was running OK but compression on No3 was falling and I thought it time to stick the spare motor in and study the internals of the venerable original.
First off, the cam chain was worn out along with the tensioner and a new set of pistons and rings were needed - gearbox shafts were badly worn and I replaced the whole box.
That was the second cam chain ho hum....
I fitted a set of second hand Mickey Rooneys as the original slides were poor and the old girl had developed a thirst...
Er, apart from that - there was nothing to do - I covered 600 fairly gentle miles last week on the 'reconditioned' lump and it seems as good as new during running in.
After a 'post running in' oil change, shim check and plug inspection I just gave it full throttle for the first time and my arms are 3 inches longer....She pulls like a herd of rhinos !
Here's looking forward to 1/2 million miles (forecast by end 2012)
 

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:welldone:welldone:welldoneOutstanding Ben! Mileage to aspire to!
 

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Wow, congrats!!! :D

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have one 'shaking down' problem ......just thought I'd let you guys know....
When hot the neutral indicator switch seems to malfunction, the neutral light does not come on (even though I am in neutral) and although I can bump start, meaning ignition circuits are live - the switch seems to be firmly refusing to let me use the button.
I will have to investigate as I think I may have an iffy clutch switch too as I would have thought pulling it in would override the neutral switch if it believes the bike is in gear....
I have been offered a Dyno run for free this weekend so will report back with results - never done it before.....I am guessing that the rated 100bhp at the crank should mean over 90 at the rear wheel ?
Anybody else know ?
 

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Hi Ben,

As you know, the starter solenoid needs to see ground to operate and it can get ground from one of two sources. If one of them has failed (say the neutral switch), then the only way the starter will spin over is if the clutch lever is working properly. The same is true in reverse, that is if the clutch lever switch has failed, then the neutral switch must be working properly. What you have now is both of them are bad.

Here is something I made awhile back that might help...look at the right hand side of the drawing underneath the starter solenoid.



The clutch lever switch is able to be cleaned if you're careful and dont mind working with small parts and springs. Once apart, clean the contacts so they are nice and shiny. Coat with a ever so light coating of silicone grease and reassemble.

The neutral switch isn't rebuildable, but you can check and make sure the gear selector plate isn't too scarred...the switch completes the ground path by physically touching the plate. If the plate is too damaged, even a new switch wont help.

One last note is on the power side of the drawing, the pushbutton for the starter also gets dirty too and you can take it apart and clean it as well. Mine is starting to get a bit dirty since the last cleaning (about a year ago).
 

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340,000 mile ... mine has 36000 on the speedo and the engine has been rebuilt already! (think that might have been lack of care though!)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks NX5L - The earth on the neutral was poor and non existent when hot and the clutch was fitted by some idiot.....errrr.....
I fixed the neutral as was a bad connector and popped the clutch swith on properly - doh !
No probs now !!
Excellent diagram by the way - saves extensive peering at the maze in the manual !!
Cheers again.
Ben
 

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My ageing beast sometimes wont turn over with the cluch lever pulled in.... i let it out and it will turn over. I always pull in the clutch from habit. Bike is always in neutral.
 
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