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Hello all, great thread, clear guidelines!
Does anyone can tell me if this also applies to the t300 Sprint (fork) wheel and calipers? Forks and wheels look the same in the t300 and t596..
Or maybe this has already been discussed anywhere on this page?
Thank you,
Tjeerd
 

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Hi all , once again been a long long time since last post, not exactly prolific eh!!? Anyway, last time couldn't upload any pics of my modified Sprint, but success! Here she is in all her glory. Project is now finished and I'll list all the mods below, but I think it's slightly different to the pics you see here. But here goes;

Tiger 1050 USD forks and yokes with modified (shortened) Tiger steering stem.
Tiger 1050 front and rear wheels powder coated pearlescent gold.
Daytona 675 Nissin Radial monobloc calipers and custom length brake hoses.
Yamaha R1M front radial master cylinder.
One off bars, actually heavily modified from Aprilia RSV1000 ebay specials!
Nitron rear shock.

And that's about it, the basics of it were quite easy, same headrace bearings, wheels were bolt on, but had lots of problems with the brakes and missed most of our glorious summer. Twice had to ride bike back home from ride out without brakes! Rear brake is almost useless anyway but was trying to run reservoir less system similar to race spec factory bikes, and didn't work, and having no front brakes is butt clenching I can tell you!!
Bike has ended up with approx 1.75", or 40mm, inch bar rise over standard, it's just noticable,and makes it that bit more comfortable, especially over longer rides, but took a while to get the turning circle acceptable. Tiger lockstops, R/H one in particular had to be heavily ground back, but it's ok now.
There's no steering lock as standard now, so always carry disc lock, so thats no hassle.

I had originally thought of getting the front fork internals reworked professionally, and may still do that in the future, to be honest I've not even renewed the fork oil from when I bought them second hand! But the sprint rides bloody great! feels kinda standard almost, despite the Tiger and Sprint having different fork offset. I've got the ride height standard, but it does turn in a little quicker, and the forks do feel sturdier, more planted, less dive and on bumpier roads I've ridden on before and after, definately copes much better and the bike is upset much less. Obviously the new rear Nitron shock helps there too, but overall I'm very very pleased.

And of course it looks amazing, had loads of bikers do a 'double take' when they see the USD forks, and of course the gold wheels are the dogs!!!!

I did get round to fitting a metal tank on the bike and so far so good, tank was empty and fuel gauge was working to show empty, just gotta get round to spraying it blue. Which might take a while as I've moved onto my next project.

Yamaha YZF1000R Thunderace motor slotted into a YZF750 frame, with R1 forks and wheels, a streetfighter ish style Sunday afternoon hooligan weapon! The YZF750 is quite short wheelbase so by all accounts should be a bit of a wheelie monster, excellent!!!!
 

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Nice job. Bonus points on going radial

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Oh, forgot to mention 1050 speed triple adjustable rearsets, in gold of course, minor modified, and shorty brake and clutch levers in gold. It's a kinda Subaru wrx blue gold thing I think works very well!
 

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Oh and someone once posted the remark, 'why would you fit long travel adventure bike forks on a sprint, well take a look and soak it in, she's gorgeous and no more wallowing vague front end. Definately worth doing!!!
 

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Rearsets?

Oh, forgot to mention 1050 speed triple adjustable rearsets, in gold of course, minor modified, and shorty brake and clutch levers in gold. It's a kinda Subaru wrx blue gold thing I think works very well!
What did you have to modify to get the rearsets to fit? There have been a lot of questions about Sprint rearsets, but little to no answers. I think you're the first one I've seen to actually make the mod...

Great looking Bike!
 

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What did you have to modify to get the rearsets to fit? There have been a lot of questions about Sprint rearsets, but little to no answers. I think you're the first one I've seen to actually make the mod...

Great looking Bike!
Very little actually. The mounting holes were approx a millimeter out for each hole, so I just used a dremel to oval the holes slightly, took all of 5 minutes. You need to get a speed triple rear master cylinder, as the sprint rod is too long, and I got some threaded rod for the gear change, plus a couple of new rose joints, which I got off ebay and were really cheap.
I also used a front brake light switch, as it was just much easier to locate and set up, rather than the standard bulky spring pull type.
The rearsets were Chinese or Hong Kong cant quite remember, and just £89, and the few bits I've mentioned made the whole job less than £100 ! bargain!
Oh, forgot to mention the exhaust heat sheild has to be removed.
Lastly I will have to modify the side stand slightly as the gear lever and the horizontal toe bar on the side stand are a little too close, it just makes it awkward flicking the sidestand out, rather than an issue while riding/gear changing. I'll just cut it off and weld it back on an inch or so further away, easy job.
 

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One other thing I forgot to mention in the list of 'upgrades' is I've fitted a carbon speed triple hugger. As you all know, sprints never came with a hugger, and Triumph never offered one as an optional extra. Pretty dumb on their part I think, would have been a nice earner for them. Fair guess that a Triumph hugger would have been in excess of £130+ and all they had to do was drill the 3 mounting holes as they have done on the speed triple arm, which is identical except for those hugger mounting holes. A fact which I know as I've got several spare arms both sprint and speed triples. Plus the aftermarket huggers which are supposedly for the sprint are really poor quality and badly designed in terms of fitting.

So I drilled the holes myself, and I can hear loads of people saying 'you've drilled holes in the arm!!!!!' what about structural integrity etc etc etc! Well I can tell you the 2 holes I drilled are only M4, and it only needs the 2, and as Triumph drilled the holes in the same place I can't see a problem, and as yet the arm hasn't broke in two!! So when I get chance I'll post a couple of pics, finishes off the rear end nicely.
I'm also in the process of making a lower 'hugger' to protect the suspension linkages and shock from all the grit and grime thrown up off the rear wheel, I'll post a pic of that too, even though it's only 75% finished,
Ta Ta for now
 

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OK so here's my lower hugger, just to clarify it's a sprint arm and it's upside down, but you probably worked that out! As you can see it needs quite a bit more fettling, shaping and finishing before i paint it, but it's coming along nicely.
As I've mentioned before though, my YZF project bike is slowing these final mods down a little, but I'll get it done for spring 2019, when the Sprint comes out of winter hibernation!
 

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some progress on my Ohlins fork swap,

I realize this might seem more complex than some of the swaps, but I was keen to keep as many parts off the shelf/stock as possible,
this makes ongoing maintenance easier, and less 'special stuff' to remember in future,

I purchased from an 03 Aprilia RSV1000R, a set of yokes, forks, calipers, mudguard, wheel & discs.

I've got the forks in, using the 03 Aprilia RSV1000R yokes which came with the forks.
the benefit of this donor bike, is that the parts are reasonably common, the yokes have a relatively high 35mm offset, closer to the Sprint compared to most of the alternatives, and the length within ~10~15mm from memory.
this would have been straight forward on a 1050 sprint as an off the shelf bearing is available, (Aprilia runs 32mm stem Vs 25mm Sprint stem)
the 955i sprint has a top bearing with 52mm OD, whereas the 1050 is a 55mm OD bearing, 32-55 bearings are common, but 32-52 are basically impossible to source.
I had the stem swapped out from my Sprint yokes into the Aprilia yokes which neatly sidesteps that problem, it means the bike still uses stock bearing sizes which is convenient. this is pretty much the only custom thing and not needed if going on a 1050 sprint.

as a bonus the horn mount and lockstops couldn't have been better, they line up perfectly .
also the steering lock position is correct, just needed to oval the mounting holes in the triumph lock and shorten the pin 3mm,

in this swap i'm going for the Aprilia Brembo axial calipers, the ones with 4 tiny pads instead of sharing pads across pairs of pistons.

this only left the speedo sender issue, which i believe i have a neat solution for!
I swapped out the rear caliper hanger for a Sprint ABS (1050abs or GT) version as this has a mount for the ABS sensor,
I then used a Sprint ABS rear brake disc and ABS sensor wheel, (same as 955i spring except the ABS ring.
with this use a Cherrly GS100701 geartooth sensor, mounted in the ABS sensor hole,
and use 4pcs m3 bolt through 4 of the gaps in the ABS ring, place a steel nut on the sensor side, and this give perfect alignment, and the correct speed readout,
for reference, the wiring is,
Cherry - Blue -connect to- Black/White - Triumph
Cherry - Black - connect to - Pink - Triumph
Cherry - Brown - connect to - Orange/red - triumph,

I will post some photo's when i get a chance.
 

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Discussion Starter #552
.... I then used a Sprint ABS rear brake disc and ABS sensor wheel, (same as 955i spring except the ABS ring.
with this use a Cherrly GS100701 geartooth sensor, mounted in the ABS sensor hole, and use 4pcs m3 bolt through 4 of the gaps in the ABS ring, place a steel nut on the sensor side, and this give perfect alignment, and the correct speed readout .....
Hate to nit-pick your excellent post - but although you have 4 pulses per wheel revolution, the speed (& odo) reading will NOT be correct as the front and rear wheel have different diameters.

But sounds like a really nice overall plan - looking forward to seeing the pics and more importantly hearing about the results on the road!
 

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Could he adjust that with TuneECU? I wonder.

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I must've spedread that he's working with a 955.

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it'll be about theoretically 5% out, which is neatly the value the speedo over-reads anyway, i just need to re-calibrate my brain to remember the speedo is reading 'real' speed.
 

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for comparison








disc comparison
[IMG}https://gallery.seloc.tv/albums/userpics/27715/sml_disc_comparison_1.jpg[/IMG]

ready to fit,



underside of top yoke


 

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I had one small issue on the yoke fitting, which has a neat workaround,
the underside of the Aprilia yoke as you can see in the last picture, (you can see the top hat spacer made up to go from 32-25mm stem)
the issue is that the 955i nut which secures the top bearing, won't fit into the recess on the aprilia yoke, as the aprilia yoke uses a castellated nut, with a round OD, so smaller max dimension.
to solve the issue i had a spacer made up to fill this recess which moved the top yoke up 3.5mm
after i'd done this, i realized that the Sprint 1050, also uses a castellated nut and fits the 955i stem,
so i could have used a sprint 1050 nut and saved myself getting a spacer made.
 

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quick update.. the conversion is complete,
ended up using small magnets on the ABS ring, as it wasn't picking up the steel teeth, strange as the datasheet for the sensor specifies steel teeth?
it would pick up the teeth but not reliably, even at a gap of 0.5mm.

I ended up with Gilles Variobars, but these come with a warning, they will hit the clocks, even on moderate lock, this is due to the chunky adjustable fittings,
the easier way is to use Converibars,
my solution was to change the dash to a 955i RS dash which i prefer due to the easily readable speed readout,
i can still mount the fuel gauge although i haven't done this yet.

the ride is sublime, and the brake much better!

I will post some photo's when i get a chance,
 
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