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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 15-20 min (6 surface street miles) commute in the morning here in FL. In the mid-70s this AM.

Today my 2001 S3 shut down on me near the end of my ride.

The temp gauge was MAXED out. Turning key off and on again after some moments allowed the idiot lights to come back on.

Bike ran with the needle at the maximum H and check engine light on down the road for 2-3 min before I got to my office building.

I didn't hear the fan running when I shut her off, but then again it rarely ever runs (except in the hot evenings) for such a short distance.

I pulled off the seat and the coolant level looks fine. Turned the key 10 min later and the temp gauge was still 1/4 of the way up.

Where do I go from here?

Faulty sensor? Fan issue? ____?
 

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So did you notice the temp was that high and just kept going, or only noticed it after you were parked? Either way keep a close eye and if it starts getting to max again with no fan shut it down and let it cool then drive again. Don't run it maxed out like that, you can still boil your coolant if it gets hot enough. The coolant usually boils at a lower temperature than water as it is really used more for the anti-freeze properties than anything else.

You should park it at home and let it heat up and see if the fan comes on though, also check the engine code (TuneECU or Autozone, etc.) Could be a bad sensor or could be then fan. I also think there were two threads here within the last couple of weeks about the fan not coming on with similar model years to yours, check those out and maybe try what worked for them as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So did you notice the temp was that high and just kept going, or only noticed it after you were parked?
I noticed when the engine shut off suddenly while I was idling. Was in the process of waddling to the side of the road when I tried to restart. I rode it the last 2-3 min to work & parked.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The fuse looks good. The fan rotates freely without obstruction.

I have not turned the bike on again, because.....



Well, I don't know if I did this damage this AM when I put the seat back on, or if it's the cause of the problem.

I had some resistance replacing the seat that I thought was my toolkit, I might've very well done it after the incident this AM, not prior. You'd think I'd have noticed it this AM if that was the case.

Crap.


I assume this is the pull / return tubing for the coolant.



Day just keeps getting better...
 

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Even with that, it should not overheat to degree it did - and fan was clearly not running.

Do you have TuneECU? You can do a Fan Test from that.
Did you actually measure to see if you have power on both sides of the Fuse, and at the Fan itself? Positive power is supplied directly to fan when the ignition is on (via the Fuse) - the 'ground' is enabled by the ECM which is what turns it on or off.

The same sensor feeds the gauge and also controls the fan - it is indicating on the gauge, so definitely not a sensor issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you for taking an interest in this DEcosse -- for weeks I've been meaning to get TuneECU installed.

I lack the cable necessary at this point. Wonder if I can find it locally.

Amazingly the dealership has the part I broke this AM in stock for $1. Double amazing.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Part replaced.

I limped home from work today, stopping at an AutoZone for the check engine light eval.

Can I get a little help with these? Are these correct?

P0230 - Fuel pump relay open circuit
P1231 - Fuel pump relay short circuit
P1601 - MIL (malfunction indicator lamp, check engine light) open circuit/short to ground
P1116 - Coolant temperature gauge short circuit/open circuit

Now that I'm home I was able to properly eval the fuse situation. All is well. Used fuse tester, all check out fine. Tested with lights on and get 11.55v on both sides of the fan fuse (most fuses, actually).

Seems wildly difficult to get to the fan connector, and appears to be a 2x2 4-pin connector that I didn't reach for just yet.

Where do I go from here?
 

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Did you clear the error codes?
Should have to see what comes back
The fuel pump ones are typical when ignition turned on with tank removed
The mil light one and also coolant gauge open seems odd since you said it seemed to be working - and was at the high level; you just bought this bike right? Possibly PO had problems with the cooling and was unplugging things trying to find issue


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.... The coolant usually boils at a lower temperature than water as it is really used more for the anti-freeze properties than anything else.....
You have that backwards - boils at higher temp with coolant than water; and then with pressurized system it gets higher still - good for about 265+ F BP for pressurized coolant
You might be confusing that water actually has better heat transfer ie better cooling properties than coolant; however the coolant raises the BP and of course lowers the FP to prevent freezing



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Discussion Starter #13
I forgot to have the tech clear the codes.

I've got the cable ordered and being delivered for TuneECU on Thursday 11th, so I'll be able to do it myself then.

I'm staying off the bike until I get this cleared up.
 

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You have that backwards - boils at higher temp with coolant than water; and then with pressurized system it gets higher still - good for about 265+ F BP for pressurized coolant
You might be confusing that water actually has better heat transfer ie better cooling properties than coolant; however the coolant raises the BP and of course lowers the FP to prevent freezing



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Yes sorry, and yeah pressurizing the system will of course raise the boiling point.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The fan tests fine

Alrighty -- I'm ready to get back into this now that the ODBII cable has arrived.

TuneECU installed and the fan test confirms the fan is operational.

The bloody temp hit 100 degrees C before the fan kicked on when I let it idle in my driveway. Took about 15 minutes.



NOW WHAT?
:confused::confused:
 

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... The bloody temp hit 100 degrees C before the fan kicked on when I let it idle in my driveway. Took about 15 minutes....
That is normal - where your fan should cut on
That suggests both the sensor AND the fan operation are working correctly
Is it possible that you may have re-seated a connector or fuse?
Or was it really on, but you had insufficient cooling?

Also note that you did complete a true functional test by letting it idle till the fan came on - however there is also a 'test' function on the Tests Page, where you can simply turn the fan on at any temperature.

Couple of unrelated observations - your TPS is not zero'ed (is throttle closing completely? Ensure there is some slack in cable)
The 0.63 suggests it probably is closed, just not electronically zeroed - do that also from tests page (engine not running)

And your idle speed is way low. Your TBs may need to be balanced.

Remaining question re the cooling system - once the fan came on, did it lower the temp, or does it continue to climb?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Correct, I also ran the test with the engine off -- kicked on just fine.

I'll zero out the TPS next time I hook her up. Good catch.

Well..... aside from my possible influence after the incident from pulling and reseating the fuse, anywhere else our diag can take us (without riding around trying to recreate the incident)?

 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Remaining question re the cooling system - once the fan came on, did it lower the temp, or does it continue to climb?
The temp rapidly dropped 10 degrees as the fan started up.

And your idle speed is way low. Your TBs may need to be balanced.
I was actually hoping I'd be able to bump up the idle speed with TuneECU -- I don't suppose I'm able to do that, eh?

Throttle Bodies, you say? :p

For what it's worth, a shot of the Test screen, engine off:

 

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In the MapEdit screen - under the 'idle' Tab (duh - go figure :D) is the set-point for idle - that should already be set for 1200 (or 1250 - would have to look to see) at full operating temp, so the problem is that your system is not controlling to that speed, not that it needs to be set higher
It could be simply because of the 1% showing on the TPS - it is not controlling idle because it does not think throttle is closed.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
This is pretty exciting times -- I reset the TPS and now my idle speed is fantastic!

I don't know if any of this has anything to do with my overheating issue, but it sure did seem to resolve the too-low rough idle I've been having for the past few months.

Compare the before and after:



 
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