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I’ve had 3 stator covers off. First one went back on perfectly without sealant, but was a real fiddle. Second one I might have rushed a bit because “I knew what I was doing”. I didn’t. First ride I came back with oil all over my boot, underside of the bike and back wheel. Off it came and I put it back very carefully with sealant, only to find it was still weeping oil. Pulled it off again and found a tiny piece of the original paper gasket on one of the surfaces causing a small leak. Cleaned it up, repeated everything and it was fine. When I got to third one I‘d learnt my lesson. I took a lot of time over cleaning both surfaces and very carefully applying sealant.
You might get away without sealant but it’s well worth the trouble.
 

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I’ve had 3 stator covers off. First one went back on perfectly without sealant, but was a real fiddle. Second one I might have rushed a bit because “I knew what I was doing”. I didn’t. First ride I came back with oil all over my boot, underside of the bike and back wheel. Off it came and I put it back very carefully with sealant, only to find it was still weeping oil. Pulled it off again and found a tiny piece of the original paper gasket on one of the surfaces causing a small leak. Cleaned it up, repeated everything and it was fine. When I got to third one I‘d learnt my lesson. I took a lot of time over cleaning both surfaces and very carefully applying sealant.
You might get away without sealant but it’s well worth the trouble.
Thanks, I think ill go the sealant route then. Did you just apply a 2mm beed around the area of the grommet as mentioned in the Haynes book or all around the whole gasket in the end. Also any advice on what type of sealant is best to use? there seems to be so much choice out there and all Haynes says is a suitable silicone sealant...so im down to around 50 to select from LOL
 

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I think the hex size is 14mm, however it was a while back and I've slept since then. I didn't use gasket sealant and did have a very slight oil leak, although not necessarily from the grommet. It was so small it was difficult to identify the source. I chose to ignore it and it eventually sealed on it's own. If I was doing it again I'd probably use the sealant...maybe. I did replace the O rings on the balancer shaft, might as well while you're there, cost is negligible.
Cam has now been in for 2000+ miles without issues. At first I noticed a drop in mpg from 74 to 69. This has gradually climbed back up to 73 which seems to indicate some bedding in has occurred. Cam makes such a dramatic difference it's a must do on the T100.
Thanks, i'd best order some larger size hex sockets in that case plus i agree may as well do the O rings too. Im glad you are happy with it. I cant wait to have it installed to test it out. Im actually quite looking forward to doing the work, just nervy about anything unexpected not working plus the whole grommet thing. Im not sure i want to superglue it like George said but may look at suitable sealant instead.
 

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Sealant is Threebond 1215. I found most difficult part of task was removing the tank and all the gubbins to gain access. Once the cam cover is off it's straight forward. Adjusting valve clearances is a bit of a faff but not difficult.
 

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Thanks, I think ill go the sealant route then. Did you just apply a 2mm beed around the area of the grommet as mentioned in the Haynes book or all around the whole gasket in the end. Also any advice on what type of sealant is best to use? there seems to be so much choice out there and all Haynes says is a suitable silicone sealant...so im down to around 50 to select from LOL
Just on the grommet. The fiddly bit is getting it - the grommet - to stay in place as you refit the cover. I used Threebond.
 

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One more question if anyone can help. The video and earlier post says the locking pin tool is 6.5mm yet Haynes manual says 6mm and i ordered the Triumph one as it wasnt expensive which is also 6mm. So im just confused why the difference, im assuming i must have the right part but havent taken the bike apart yet
 

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One more question if anyone can help. The video and earlier post says the locking pin tool is 6.5mm yet Haynes manual says 6mm and i ordered the Triumph one as it wasnt expensive which is also 6mm. So im just confused why the difference, im assuming i must have the right part but havent taken the bike apart yet
Sorry ignore the above i must have missed its already been discussed lol
 

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I think you should now just get stuck in and everything will make sense.
Yea thanks. Its happening this weekend. Got my son coming home to help so just getting as much info to hopefully avoid any rookie errors…..will let you know how I get on and especially if I get stuck 😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
Yea thanks. Its happening this weekend. Got my son coming home to help so just getting as much info to hopefully avoid any rookie errors…..will let you know how I get on and especially if I get stuck 😂
(y)
 

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Well, day one managed to take tank off fairly easily and all the connections underneath most of which i didnt expect from the video but managed. The alternator cover was a ba\|*\| of a job and took most of the afternoon, part of which was searching for some tool to prise the top right part. In the end we used 2 x gb 2p coins in the slot and a hammer and finally we had the covers off then the gasket. Day 2 …tomorrow we can finally start on the actual cam change. Cant believe the alternator cover took a whole afternoon but so far its going to plan though taking much more time lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #153 ·
I used a rubber mallet on mine and spent about 15minutes tapping all around and then suddenly it gave in and started to release.I then used an end of a small pry bar with some cloth rapped around it to prize the cover off.
 

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Managed to get everything installed and working bike starts. But broke one of the bolts in the alternator casing (not sure why as was using torque wrench) and it had half of it left inside. Cant believe it after everything else working perfectly. After finishing the electrics and engine wondering if the screw would need drilling out i removed the alternator cover which came off in seconds this time the bolt luckily had a couple of mm protruding where it broke. It came out straight away with pliers. What a relief!!!!!
I needed a beer after that. Im assuming i would still be safest replacing the gasket again however it looks perfect and is stuck to the actual cover with thethreebond so im not sure if i could get away with just refitting it as is with a new bolt. Any advice welcome, do i replace the gasket again?
 

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Discussion Starter · #156 ·
I am sure you will be ok with the gasket.
Tighten everything up again CAREFULLY and just wait for another bolt.
Good job!
 

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I am sure you will be ok with the gasket.
Tighten everything up again CAREFULLY and just wait for another bolt.
Good job!
Cheers, i really appreciate your help (and others from the forum who have contributed to this thread), I doubt I would have dared do it DIY without it 👍👍👍👍
 

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As long as the gasket is in one piece it should be fine to reuse it. You’ll know as soon as you go for a ride if there’s a leak.
Good job getting it done and very sensible taking your time over it. You also seem admirably calm given what you’ve been through!
 

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As long as the gasket is in one piece it should be fine to reuse it. You’ll know as soon as you go for a ride if there’s a leak.
Good job getting it done and very sensible taking your time over it. You also seem admirably calm given what you’ve been through!
Calm only due to getting that bolt out lol.
One question though i still cant find a tool to torq the tensioner. 24mm 1/2 inch socket yet 1/2 inch torque wrench doesnt go to 16nm. I have a step adaptor but cant fit that in due to radiator. Ended up using washers to pad out the 1/2 inch socket to 3/8 torq wrench. Ive not heard anyone else with this problem yet im struggling to find an answer even on amazon. Am i missing something?
 

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From memory I used my torque wrench on a few practice nuts to get a feel for it and then did it with an ordinary spanner by feel. At about 500km or so I did get the shop mechanic to do a (sanity; mine…haha) check of timing and clearances and all the nuts and bolts. Needed just one shim changed and everything else was spot on - or near enough.
 
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