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I know I remember. But yours was at least on the floor. When you can't see it on the floor it becomes a bigger worry.
My son "just get a book like that" (pointing to his tc85 book). Tc85 vs 900 bonnie.? Different animal, too much work.
Having trouble getting the intakes right so im sure it's coming off again. @cosmetik what have you done to me mate haha.
He sent the parts super quick even tracked it for me to tell me I'd missed delivery. I feel better helping him out than buying from the store. Shipping bumped the price up as fed ex are a rip off but it didn't go over the cost of a shop delivered one.
Someone drive down to Mexico and buy him a cerveza or 3 from me.

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one cerveza would suffice.

rock & roll baby
 

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And Davey has finally finished and test ride his bike. It's really wet outside and I'm not a confident wet weather rider unless I've got knobbies and dirt under me so.....
It revved to 5500 before I even knew what was going on!!
I've always short shifted this thing because over 4 was pointless and time wasting. Me thinketh I will be short shifting no more. So much cleaner. 2 laps of the street was all I got, dark and wet, but it may feel a little less down low. Perhaps lost a smidge of pull. But with the revability now I don't see that as a problem. Its not a holy sh t moment of power just a ooh yeah that's better. Linear to so far 5500 maybe more.
I believe I shall be enjoying this muchly on the glorious roads on the sunny coast. Can't wait for the Obi Obi one way section now.
After break in its gonna get a test on some forest dirt road hills to see how it pulls in the loose stuff coz it did struggle a bit before when trying to twist it. @RHB you maybe one of the last original survivors here mate, it's a good mod, you'll enjoy it.


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Give it a little time to bed in and adapt. My initial feeling was similar to yours but after a few hundred km it started to feel stronger and is actually quite snappy at times. Run it in and it punts close to 7,000 easily. Well done!
 

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I'm actually meant to take my son out on the dirties tomorrow but I'm gonna be thinking about the Scrambler all day. I think I'm gonna go for some really long relaxed rides next week, give it an oil change then rip it for the weekend.


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@RHB you maybe one of the last original survivors here mate, it's a good mod, you'll enjoy it.


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Time will tell, I have taken, suddenly, a slightly tangential path to the same end.
 

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I'm actually meant to take my son out on the dirties tomorrow but I'm gonna be thinking about the Schrambler all day. I think I'm gonna go for some really long relaxed rides next week, give it an oil change then rip it for the weekend.


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Yep. That’s what I’d do. :smile2:
 

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Thanks for this thread :) I am waiting for the bits to arrive to do the cam swap (Tec). I already have the cam lying in the garage. First time doing this but with the help of this site, Haynes and the video of George on youtube I am sure I will manage. Only thing that is unclear to me is what to exactly do with the Timing chain Tensioner and the timing torque limiter (set to 0,6Nm). I can't find anything in the Haynes manual or in the video of George. Only read about it on the installation document on tritun. Or did I miss anything?
I see in this thread that the original timing pin is of not so good quality. Is the 6mm bolt working as said in Haynes? Or better go for the stepped solution? That is 8mm stepped to 6,5mm if I am correct? I will probably make it myself then.
Will keep you updated about this!
 

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A stepped pin is probably/certainly better but I just used a snug fitting Allan key. I did get the timing and clearances checked by a mechanic after about 1,000km just for peace of mind (and partly due to lack of confidence in my own work). Clearances needed small adjustment on 2 but timing was spot on.
 

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I keep that in mind canberra. thanks.

Just had contact with a metal shop... they can make a stepped pin for between 30 and 60 euro's... the locking tool is difficult for them they said... 🤦‍♂️There goes my trust in them. I will probably buy a 8mm steel rod and grind it down a bit... otherwise I still can go for the Allan Key.
 

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Thanks for the thread. Can you guys who have have done the job explain how you set the camchain tension whilst adjusting the cam sprocket alignment (without using the expensive Triumph tools). As far as I can see George on the TEC video just pops in the camchain tensioner, but doesn't release it before locking the sprocket, so he's just relying on finger pressure to take up the rear slack on the chain. Wouldn't it be best to activate the tensioner before locking the sprocket?
 

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Instructions say to rotate the engine backwards four revolutions after installing the tensioner and it should release. In my case it didn't release until I was tightening the new sprocket bolts at which point I realised the timing was off and had to readjust. The tensioner requires a 24mm socket. I managed to find a low profile socket (Amazon) that allowed a torque wrench to fit without loosening the radiator. A crow's foot would probably achieve the same.
 

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Instructions say to rotate the engine backwards four revolutions after installing the tensioner and it should release. In my case it didn't release until I was tightening the sprocket bolts at which point I realised the timing was off and had to readjust. The tensioner requires a 24mm socket. I managed to find a low profile socket (Amazon) that allowed a torque wrench to fit without loosening the radiator. A crow's foot would probably achieve the same.
Thanks, that makes more sense. In the TEC video releasing the tensioner is the very last thing he does (after fixing the sprocket and closing the lid), which seemed a bit weird
 

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One thing I found is it would be easy to not insert the timing pin far enough. It tends to feel like it's home when it still has approx. 10-15mm to go. I had to wiggle it about slightly to get it to slot home that last bit. If you're using the Triumph pin there's a very slight step in it and it inserts all the way to the step. I think this is an argument for using the Triumph tool rather than something else. Step in tool is 50mm from end. Tool is constant 5.75mm dia. from end to step, 6mm dia. after step.
 

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Thanks, that makes more sense. In the TEC video releasing the tensioner is the very last thing he does (after fixing the sprocket and closing the lid), which seemed a bit weird
I just finished my install and I too followed the video to find that the timing was wrong upon the tensioner engaging. Went back and corrected and all is well! BTW: used the 6.5mm dia drill bit vs Triumph tool. Since I had to buy a 3’ section of flat bar to make the cam lock I redesigned to give more leverage and precision:



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I just finished my install and I too followed the video to find that the timing was wrong upon the tensioner engaging. Went back and corrected and all is well! BTW: used the 6.5mm dia drill bit vs Triumph tool. Since I had to buy a 3’ section of flat bar to make the cam lock I redesigned to give more leverage and precision:



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Great job on the cam lock tool... that looks pretty close to the actual Triumph one as well. I need to make one for my upcoming install. Any chance you’d be able to post the dimensions?
 

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Great job on the cam lock tool... that looks pretty close to the actual Triumph one as well. I need to make one for my upcoming install. Any chance you’d be able to post the dimensions?
Thanks Dan!

I finally got around to measuring the tool I made. It’s designed to work with the camshaft bolted down. I don’t have the right tools to fabricate so this was down and dirty. I cut it out using a jig saw. The shape came from the outline of my cheap Harbor Freight digital calipers. The rest was done with a mini grinder(HF) and lots of filing with a handheld flat file. Bottom line is that it fit tight and worked like a charm.



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I know this is an old thread so not sure whether to reply or start a new one. However I have just ordered the TEC Cam and other parts for my 2019 T100 and found this thread really helpful in making the decision to fit it myself so was hoping some of you may be able to give me a couple of pointers on the below
1) I cant seem to find anywhere what the hex key size is to turn the Cam and line up (it looks like 10 or 12mm on the vid)
2) did any of you use gasket sealant when refitting the alternator cover where the lead & grommet goes as mentioned in the Haynes Manual but not by George.
3) Did you replace the o rings on the deadshaft balancer - Haynes said replace but George just said check.
Any help would be great!
 

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I think the hex size is 14mm, however it was a while back and I've slept since then. I didn't use gasket sealant and did have a very slight oil leak, although not necessarily from the grommet. It was so small it was difficult to identify the source. I chose to ignore it and it eventually sealed on it's own. If I was doing it again I'd probably use the sealant...maybe. I did replace the O rings on the balancer shaft, might as well while you're there, cost is negligible.
Cam has now been in for 2000+ miles without issues. At first I noticed a drop in mpg from 74 to 69. This has gradually climbed back up to 73 which seems to indicate some bedding in has occurred. Cam makes such a dramatic difference it's a must do on the T100.
 
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