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Discussion Starter #1
I took the TBS to the Bennington rally last weekend and enjoyed meeting fellow owners of the marque. I spent most of Saturday in the saddle with a few new found friends, rode up Mt. Equinox, Tinmouth and hinterlands on the VT/NY border.

I'm really enjoying the bike. One thing I'm hoping I can change is converting the rear sets to the peg location on the standard Thunderbird. I looked at a friend's standard and it looks like his shifter has no linkage and the lever has less play and more direct.

Has anyone done this? I've looked for conversion kits but, so far no luck. My knees were pretty stiff after a day on the Sport. Standing on the pegs and stretching my legs while riding helped but, even so...I'll be 70 in a couple weeks and a career as a mason has taken its toll on the knees.
Any help most appreciated!
 

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Hey Steve,

I tried to convert my Legend to a TBS rearset so I can answer some questions you have. Which exhaust do you have? Because the TBS exhaust with both mufflers on one side will not work as the brake pedal contacts the pipe. If you have mufflers on both sides then it will work. It is possible the linkage you see off the shift will go away on the standard TB the shifter bolts right to the spline sticking out of the transmission.
 

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I got some generic peg lowering thingy’s on ebay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Multi-Position-Adjustable-Foot-Pegs-Extension-KIT-for-Triumph-/272128138771?var=&hash=item0

And with some inserts made from polyester (plastic kitchen cutting board) i was able to have them stay perfectly squared. they work great. Really opened up the rider triangle.

Then i put some rubber peg cover on em, and the look almost bone stock

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Footrest-Foot-Pegs-Rubber-Set-Fits-Triumph-750-T140-TR7-1979-and-Up-83-7256-ECs-/362556386561?hash=item546a0b6d01

Stock linkage/brake pedals can be adjusted to work with them. This may provide some real comfort for ya...FWIW.

Here they are pictured on the bike
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sweet! Thanks PB!
For bike model, did you select "Daytona 955 97-03"? I will give them a try.

And, where, oh where did you get the frame sliders?? I've been looking for some for a while.
Thanks again for the links.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So, how were you able to lower the rear brake lever? Or did you? And, did you go with the 20-30 mm one, or the 40-50 mm?
Thanks.
 

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Here's your frame sliders

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Frame-Sliders-Anti-Crash-Protector-10-mm-Fit-For-Yamaha-Honda-Suzuki/192870320782?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&var=493012141779&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

You will need to source a pair of 12mmx100mm coarse thread bolts, (online) and a 12mm x 20mm barrel spacer, and a couple of flat washers.(local hardware store) The spacer and bolt that comes with the slider is too small (maybe 10mmx80mm??) The bigger spacer helps the slider clear the engine but the existing engine bolts are only 60mm long, and are not long enough to support the needed spacer. The sliders are cheap, but effective, as I did have the bike drop on the right side and the slider took the hit and no paint work was damaged. I was pulling out of a driveway turning left and I shifted to 2nd but popped the clutch too quickly, locked the rear wheel for a second. The bike immediately went down and threw my old butt off and onto the road. The slider did a fine job. Little hint: the handlebars, slider, and passenger pegs will keep the paint work from hitting the flat ground. But keep those passenger pegs deployed all the time. They've saved my chrome exhaust and side covers from damage. So far I've dropped this baby 3 times in the past year. ( foot slid out on a rainy oily spot(1), boot jean pant leg caught on the foot peg at stop light(2), and the shifting snafu(3). Hoping for no more of that nonsense.

As far as the brake pedal, it remained in the same position. I got the 40/50 lowering pegs for the sprint 955.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks again, PB!

Installed the peg lowering kit and took it for a good ride yesterday. As expected, BIG difference. I only set them on the 40 mm position and haven't yet installed the rubber peg covers yet as rasping off the flared end looks to be to sweat producing on a day like today.
I did need to modify the kit. Had to drill out the holes to 13/32. And had to remove about a third of the thickness of the inside corner of the piece that fits in the original bracket, to make the peg lay parallel to the ground.

Waiting for a trip to the hardware store for the barrel spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
frame slider update

As well as the peg lowering parts work, I regret that the aftermarket frame slider link was, for me, a big FAIL.

After getting the 12 mm bolts, nuts and spacers specified by pb9717, I found the hole in the stepped spacer that was supplied in the universal frame slider that provides the required metal/metal connection wasn't quite big enough for a 12 mm bolt to pass through. So it was impossible to tighten down the new bolt, which is also an engine mount to the 70 ft. lb. torque spec. The black plastic inner part just started deforming.

So, unless I'm not following your instructions correctly pb, there's no way I would trust this modification. Did you put a torque wrench on that bolt?
Steve
 

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Without going back and reading everything, and thus risking making a fool out of myself, can't you ream out the bushings to fit the bolts? Also, the bolts you are using: what grade are they? I'm "assuming" you got the same grade as what you are replacing...
 

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As well as the peg lowering parts work, I regret that the aftermarket frame slider link was, for me, a big FAIL.

After getting the 12 mm bolts, nuts and spacers specified by pb9717, I found the hole in the stepped spacer that was supplied in the universal frame slider that provides the required metal/metal connection wasn't quite big enough for a 12 mm bolt to pass through. So it was impossible to tighten down the new bolt, which is also an engine mount to the 70 ft. lb. torque spec. The black plastic inner part just started deforming.

So, unless I'm not following your instructions correctly pb, there's no way I would trust this modification. Did you put a torque wrench on that bolt?
Steve
Are used a steel spacer and heavy washers, omitting the aluminum sleeve that came with the slider. The steel sleeve/spacer was sized to accommodate the 12mm x 100mm bolt. Works like a charm.
 

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Without going back and reading everything, and thus risking making a fool out of myself, can't you ream out the bushings to fit the bolts? Also, the bolts you are using: what grade are they? I'm "assuming" you got the same grade as what you are replacing...
The aluminum sleeve that comes with the slider doesn’t have enough meat in it to accommodate being drilled out to allow the 12 mm bolts to pass-through. A standard hardened steel sleeve With a 12 mm internal diameter, approximately 1 inch long, with two heavy steel washers, one on the inside of the slider and one on the outside, will work well. The torque can be achieved using this assembly. The bolts used were purchased from a hardware distributor/wholesaler in the US. Unfortunately the name of the company slips my mind as of now. I will look in my browser to see if I saved the link and get back to you.
 
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