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this might seem like a really dumb question, but I'm about to put the tappet blocks into my cylinder-I have the factory tool, and I was going to put the blocks in the freezer and heat the jugs up, but I'm worried about melting the O ring.
can I get away with just putting the blocks in the freezer, without heating the jugs?
 

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I just hammered mine in with the barrels sitting on some wood on the bench with a smear of grease to ease them in and then locktite the set screw with a new or annealed copper washer
 

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It would be almost a waste of time to have the blocks cooler than the barrel when you start.If the block was 100 degrees C cooler than the barrel,it would fall in,then immediately become tight as the barrel heated it.

It will take about 10 minutes to get the block properly aligned as you punch it in.At times,you will need to punch it back out slightly and twist it to a better position.You'll get a rough idea if you're keeping it square if you put a straight-edge on it and measure from the straight-edge back to the cylinder bores with a caliper.You'll get a better measurement if you put 2 cam-followers in the block,put the straight edge on them,and measure from the straight-edge to the cylinder bores with a vernier caliper.
Try to keep the measurements from the straight-edge to the bores within about 0.005" of each other.I try for 0.002",and I'd never accept 0.010".Lining up the grub-screw hole is not a good indication of squareness.You may even find one that doesn't line up when the block is square;I have (I just used a shorter screw that didn't go into the hole).The blocks are so tight they can never move.
Loctite 567 between the block flange and the barrel is a little extra insurance against leakage.
 

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I also drew a nice straight line on the tappet block with a sharpie so I could watch it was going in straight. I like the idea like Mr. Pete is talking about to make sure the followers are nice and even and parrallel to the cams by measuring off the barrels. I will have to do that next time.
 
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