Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

21 - 33 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #21
Probably the same one who was put in charge of the rear master cylinder reservoir location on the 1050 ST. Yeah, that looks good, buried away safe and sound!
:LOL: Yeah not the easiest operation to top it up and check the level, Still it gives license to our creativity in the art of modifications
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,059 Posts
Steve - there's nothing on the ST's that comes close to the puzzle that wears a Buell nameplate! Concur?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,059 Posts
No - that's just irritating. The Buell XB's are the mechanical equivalent of stuffing 10 lbs. of 'stuff' in a 6 lb. bag. Almost everything is a b*tch to get to.

Except the battery and ECM. They are right under the seat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,255 Posts
Cramming a motor into a perimeter frame does make things difficult, I will say that much.
Both brands are about equally time consuming to work on although the Buell is a much simpler motor.

The battery and ECM are too close to the seat on the Useless, the pan eventually deforms and crushes everything.
Just pathetic.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
452 Posts
If you have time to let it work, I suggest you try EvapoRust. It only attacks the rust and not the good metal. You may have to change it out several times as there won't be much volume of it to attack the rust. It is reusable, but each time it becomes slightly weaker. You sure don't want to thin the wall thickness of the tube any more than it already is from the rust. Caustic liquids could perforate the tube, rendering your tank useless.

The wire rope suggestion is good; or if you have an old section of speedometer cable you could try feeding a short section through while slowly spinning it in a drill. Hopefully, the combination of chemical and mechanical actions will be the ticket!

If you succeed, treat the inside of the tube with POR-15 or similar to prevent further deterioration.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,059 Posts
XYooper906, the issue isn't corrosion. The drain tends to clog with mineral deposits, and usually it is worst at the drain nipple, which is a tiny orifice to start.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
452 Posts
XYooper906, the issue isn't corrosion. The drain tends to clog with mineral deposits, and usually it is worst at the drain nipple, which is a tiny orifice to start.
I'll take your word for it, as I don't own a Sprint. I recently cleaned out the tank and blocked drain tube on an old Honda tank. The tube was plugged tight with rust. Perhaps minerals or an insect nest plugged it initially. But the water backed up in the tube and stayed there for an extended period of time, leading to more rust. If the OP's bike sat for awhile in the same condition, I would be surprised if there wasn't some rust in there.

What is the purpose of the orifice? Seems counterintuitive for a drain tube.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,470 Posts
I think Triumph must have thought that was a good fuel tight connection to the outside on a plastic tank.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #30
Why allow the rain to get in anyway? the gap around the filler cap is bit enough to warrant guttering, surely this could have a seal , the gap is not for venting or anything I can think of other than to produce some rust,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
I will definately give that a try, I just need to find the time to do it, I will soak it in vinegar for a few hours beforhand, I was thinking about putting the wire in a slow drill then feeding it down.
 
21 - 33 of 33 Posts
Top