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Discussion Starter #1
My bike have been standing for a couple of years while I been out of the country. The water drainage tube inside the filler cap is blocked and I get a puddle in there and some ends up in the tank as it is not draining away. I have tried poking bits of wire down it and up it from beneath but its blocked up solid. I acually had the problem a couple of years ago but had to leave it while I was away, Any Ideas? or is it a new tank?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Have you taken the tube off where it attaches to the bottom of the tank and cleaned there?
yes, took the rubber tube off of the pipe where it protrudes beneath the tank, it doesn't help that the pipe has a bend inside the tank and it is such a small bore so any wire that goes down it weakens as it hits the bend, a straight pipe would be too easy eh?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Will give that a go if I can get to an air line but it does feel pretty solid, I can see wet rust on the end of the wire coat hanger I shove down it
 

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You can remove mineral deposits with these acidic household items and cleaners:
  • Lemon juice.
  • White vinegar.
  • CLR cleaner.
  • Phosphoric acid cleaners.
  • Sulfuric acid.
  • Muriatic acid (very strong- use only for tough deposits) Mix 1 part muriatic acid with 5 parts water.
I think I'd stick with lemon juice or white vinegar...
 

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I would stay away from the last two acids, especially Muriatic. The fumes alone will rust any steel present(not much with a bike I know), but very noxious.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
You can remove mineral deposits with these acidic household items and cleaners:
  • Lemon juice.
  • White vinegar.
  • CLR cleaner.
  • Phosphoric acid cleaners.
  • Sulfuric acid.
  • Muriatic acid (very strong- use only for tough deposits) Mix 1 part muriatic acid with 5 parts water.
I think I'd stick with lemon juice or white vinegar...
Excellent advice,Thanks Steve, I will try the friendly acids for sure, forgot about vinegar being the great universal cleaner, I shall put a fresh bit down it each day and carry on poking it with the wire..
Something to be said for plastic tanks eh?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would stay away from the last two acids, especially Muriatic. The fumes alone will rust any steel present(not much with a bike I know), but very noxious.
Thanks, sounds nasty, organic is best, and a little bit each day should do it I reckon., I shall post the results.
 

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Muriatic acid is great for cleaning bricks, masonry and stripping finish off wood, but very nasty stuff. A company that strips and refinishes architectural woodwork had used Muriatic to strip all the woodwork and moldings at a very pricey condo, had left fans running with windows open that needed to be on for at least 24hrs to rid the condo of any fumes. Someone shut off a breaker that shut down the fans and when they came back every bit of metal had rusted. Victorian door hinges. all the appliances in the kitchen were ruined, etc. Big insurance claim.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
no account for human stupidity ha, its the only thing other than the universe that is infinite, or maybe someone from the appliance company was really smart?? I shall def stick with the vinegar.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
If its a plastic tube I probably wouldn't use a wire, maybe solid rubber tubing, twist it as you feed it down, maybe
I put the
it is the steel tank and the pipe is steel, I was just commenting the benefit of a plastic tank, cant see how they could get much rust.in them.
I think I caused the problem a few years ago when I put the tip over valve and the drain tube the wrong way round,, It was like that for a couple of months before I realised, then I changed them to the correct way but didn't notice the drain pipe was blocked and as the bike was later parked up for two years I guess it just rusted and solidified.
As it always is our suffering is always our own doing eh?
 

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Make sure the nipple end is clear. You can take it off the tank, if need be. Use a small drill bit and twist it 'round in the nipple and as far up into the tank as it'll go. Basically, ream out the deposits. Finger power only!

The nipple is 'sealed' to the tank with seals that apparently, are made from the same diseased rubber tree as the rear brake M/C cover and battery hold-down straps. So be prepared to come up with a new seal.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Make sure the nipple end is clear. You can take it off the tank, if need be. Use a small drill bit and twist it 'round in the nipple and as far up into the tank as it'll go. Basically, ream out the deposits. Finger power only!

The nipple is 'sealed' to the tank with seals that apparently, are made from the same diseased rubber tree as the rear brake M/C cover and battery hold-down straps. So be prepared to come up with a new seal.
Hmm I need to get the tank off and have a look at that, So the stub sticking out if the bottom of the tank will unscrew to reveal a nipple? I thought it was just a continuous pipe from top to bottm and welded at the bottom of the tank,, this might help cos judging by the length of the wire I can actually get down it doesnt quite reach the base iof the tank and when I push the wire up the stub underneath it does go in slightly beyong the base of the tank, so my thoughts were that the blockage was about 2cm long in the pipe but within the tank space.
What dweeb thought "lets reduce the bore of this already small bore pipe by putting a nipple in it with a bit of perishable rubber"???
 

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Probably the same one who was put in charge of the rear master cylinder reservoir location on the 1050 ST. Yeah, that looks good, buried away safe and sound!
 
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