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Thank you! I finally just pulled it out. Im always nervous cause i dont want to break something or find another bad seal etc. Haha. Tomorrow weather permitting im gonna re seal the tank with caswell.
 

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Just taped it up with masking tape (closed it off) - masking tape around the pump plate just to protect the sealing surface - you can make a cardboard template and put on the plate opening so you can do the final step to flow it all the way to the edge of that opening
Note the if you remove any covering before it is completely cured, you can trim it easily with a razor knife
 

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Thank you to everyone who replied especially DEcosse. Now i just gotta wait for the weather to warm up so i can actually do it.
 

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1998 T595 Daytona 2014 Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS
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I buy online or phone from Hermy's Triumph in PA. Great assistance in the past for my T595. The plate gasket part number I believe is T1240864. That's the 10 hole. I have a new one, but keeping for my Daytona.
 

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Thank you. I looked for it at their site but the pic only showed a 14 hole. Ill call them back tomorrow. Im pretty upset at my local triumph shop, they sold me the wrong one and now 2-3 weeks later once im ready to put it all back together its the wrong one and to top it off a wire for the low fuel sensor broke right where it goes into the sensor.
 

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1998 T595 Daytona 2014 Kawasaki Ninja1000ABS
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I ordered the plate gasket years ago from Bike Bandit and they also sold me the 14 hole. I feel your pain. Hermy's should be able to help you. Sometimes they have to order the part for these old bikes, but I've had great success with them. They once sent me a coolant sendor that I ordered only to find out I needed the second choice. I couldn't tell from the diagram. They sent me the other part without receiving the old part back. In fact, they didn't even mention sending the part back. I only paid for the first part. I did send back the wrong part. The cost was around $75.. Sometimes the diagrams show multiple part numbers for the same part. Can be very confusing. I need a fastener for the fuel tank front cover and there seems to be quite a few of them with different part numbers. Don't know which one to get. Will have to call them and maybe send them a pic of my bolt.
 

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According to Fowlers, the part number for the 10-hole seal is T1240864, the 14-hole seal is T1241054. Give them the part number, they'll have to try really hard to sell you the wrong one then.
 

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I need a fastener for the fuel tank front cover and there seems to be quite a few of them with different part numbers
These numbers agree with the Lings World of Triumph Site in UK
I note it says 'up to 61485' but don't see how there could be a different one
Anyway - M5 x 11mm Button Head if you can find from a general hardware supplier
tank_cover_bolt_washer.png


747788
 

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Thanks again. I just may have some leftover from my Thruxton 900. I'll have to check the size.
 

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Hey guys, so i sealed the tank with caswell and all was good for a weekend, but i left town for work for the week and when i got back the vent drain was leaking again. Any ideas/options/magical fixes etc?
 

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The rubber seal around both of them are completely shot.
From my earlier post
No. The Rubber seals don't even really see any gas UNLESS there is a leak - the only way you get gas at the rubber seal is if the tube is full of gas
i sealed the tank with caswell and all was good for a weekend, but i left town for work for the week and when i got back the vent drain was leaking again
The course of action should have been to first identify the hole and pre-treat that first, either with small mix of Caswell, or another 2-part epoxy, possibly even building up several layers - I did this, essentially 'painted' the epoxy on with a paint brush.
You can still probably do this, it just would have been better done before the Caswell.

One thing you want to be sure, is that you have a clear open path inside the tube so that any gas that got in there from over-fill, is free to immediately flush away. If the tube was filled during filling, and it is partially blocked, the fuel may only just slowly leak out - but it would eventually stop. However if it is still dripping after a weekend, then most likely you still have a hole in the internal tube.
 

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I pulled the metal fitting and replaced the bad rubber, and so far that has either slowed the leak almost completely, or it has actually stopped it. I did coat both of the tubes before the main coat. I slathered caswell on both of them before putting the rest in to get all the sides, and i dripped the extra down the tubes to try and build it up.
 

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Again, the rubber does not seal anything UNLESS there is a leak into the tube - and even then, if the path is clear through the tube and the nipple it is more likely to drain through the nipple than at the seal. You have to recognize that the seal is between the nipple and the tube - it is not sealing to the main tank volume itself. If you are/were leaking gas at the nipple seal there HAS to be gas in the tube, it's not coming from the tank itself.

Excuse he crude drawing - hopefully helps you understand what the seal is 'doing'
So also note that the nipple is screwed into the inside of the tube - any leak occurring at the seal means it is leaking between the INSIDE of the tube and the nipple - which means there has to be gas in the tube in the first place. i.e. any gas leaking at the seal has to be permeating between the thread of the nipple and the INSIDE wall of the tube - which again says there would have to be gas in the tube in order for it to do anything. And if there is gas in the tube, it means there is a hole in the tube.
The seal does NOT seal to the tank itself even if mating surface is the outside of the tank around the tube opening. It's pretty much worthless to be honest until you already have a problem and then al it does is ensure that your leak continues down the hose rather than leaking out around the nipple

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I understand that, what i dont understand is how putting in a new piece of rubber helped, i did it out of frustration last night cause i only had a few minutes all weekend to work on it. The leak didnt seem to be coming out of the nipple at all, it was coming from around the seal, which should still be an issue with the tube and all, but again i only had a small amount of time to do anything about it, so all i had time to do was put in a new piece of rubber, and like i said, that has either slowed the leak a bunch, or stopped it. It could be entirely that now the gas has to build up enough to the top of the nipple inside the tube before it can leak instead of getting passed the threads out through the old rubber.
 
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