Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,997 Posts
You should look at the voltage drop between the battery and the coils. The problem is not necessarily the battery, as the alternator powers the bike when it is running, not the battery.
I see the same thing. With the engine not running you should test the voltage supplied to the coils from the ignition switch (meter connected from ignition to ground). That voltage should be very close to what your battery voltage reading is ( battery + to ground), on all three cylinders (min. 12 volts). If it is not, you need to find out why, and fix it. I DO suspect there is something going on with that cylinder that is running cool, but one thing at a time. Get the ignition problems cleaned up first, THEN see what you have. ...J.D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,997 Posts
Put the positive probe on the battery plus and the negative probe on the coil plus. The meter will read the voltage drop between the battery and the coil.
No need. Your brain can do the math [joke]… I'm also thinking about the ground side. Maybe a bad ground ? But you are right. Using a volt meter to check the voltage drop can be useful. A good way to check the viability of battery cable connections. I'd start with the kill switch and follow the circuit through the ignition switch, all the way to the coils. Could even be before the kill switch. Something is being lost somewhere. ...J.D.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
Thanks again. I'll do some voltage tests. The battery is weak, so it does need replaced.

Now that you mention the kill switches, battery cables and grounds, I won't be surprised. The kick stand switch has stuck before, plus sometimes I have to pull the clutch lever to make the starter work, even in neutral.

No doubt, I'll find more bugs - 20 years old, but a great motorcycle.

Thanks,
Bonavent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
The Ignitech igniter is installed and the bike seems stronger.

The bike was slow to start and was blowing smoke for while, but evened-out. I plan to take the bike out later or tomorrow.

I was surprised I didn't have to hook up the computer to program the igniter. Evidently, the igniter is set up at Ignitech and I've ask them the question.

Thanks for help on this issue.
Bonavent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
After replacing the igniter, I attempted to take the bike out for a shakedown ride.

The bike stalls with I engage first gear. That's happened previously but I was always able to solve it by pulling in the clutch a few times and maybe shifting into gear a few times. I've lubricated the kickstand switch before thinking that was the problem. It didn't work this time.

I also noticed the tachometer was not working. It always did before I switched igniters.

Does anyone have experience with these problems? I'm searching now.

Thanks,
Bonavent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
72 Posts
The Ignitech igniter is installed and the bike seems stronger.

The bike was slow to start and was blowing smoke for while, but evened-out. I plan to take the bike out later or tomorrow.

I was surprised I didn't have to hook up the computer to program the igniter. Evidently, the igniter is set up at Ignitech and I've ask them the question.

Thanks for help on this issue.
Bonavent
I am surprised too, because I had to programme my Ignitech, there is an excellent program on here from Irlmike.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
Thank-you. I think the tachometer fault is due to the igniter programming.

The greater problem now is the clutch doesn't disengage, i.e. the bike won't roll in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. That explains the bike stalling when put in gear.

Plus, I can't get the clutch reservoir screws out. I'm using some lubricate and have an impact wrench that I'm gently using.

I'm also searching for solutions to the clutch problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
673 Posts
Thank-you. I think the tachometer fault is due to the igniter programming.

The greater problem now is the clutch doesn't disengage, i.e. the bike won't roll in gear with the clutch lever pulled in. That explains the bike stalling when put in gear.

Plus, I can't get the clutch reservoir screws out. I'm using some lubricate and have an impact wrench that I'm gently using.

I'm also searching for solutions to the clutch problem.
Try rocking the bike back and forth clutch in and it might release.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
123 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
It's over. It's a monster and running very strong!

The Triple is the most fantastic bike ever & the most enjoyable of the five I own.

My problem was the igniter. I didn't have to program or use the computer at all. (The bike had been laid up for five years.)

The tach started to work. The frozen clutch was solved by tying back the lever in gear over night.

The clutch reservoir screw came out with an inpact wrench after soaking in PB Blaster over night. The bits that came with the wrench fit perfectly (JIS?).

Thanks very much for the help on this problem!
Bonavent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,381 Posts
It's over. It's a monster and running very strong!

The Triple is the most fantastic bike ever & the most enjoyable of the five I own.

My problem was the igniter. I didn't have to program or use the computer at all. (The bike had been laid up for five years.)

The tach started to work. The frozen clutch was solved by tying back the lever in gear over night.

The clutch reservoir screw came out with an inpact wrench after soaking in PB Blaster over night. The bits that came with the wrench fit perfectly (JIS?).

Thanks very much for the help on this problem!
Bonavent
That’s awesome. Now time to enjoy!
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top