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I’ve only converted my rear indicators so far but what I noticed and my riding buddy confirmed, is that if I indicate left the right side flashes weakly and vice versa , not good. I have yet to do a test but I’m pretty certain it’s the idiot light using the other side as ground so I may have to improve on the primitive circuit by using a couple of diode and running the idiot light to ground.
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Hi,
Is what I do:-
. two 8-way snap connectors, one inside the headlamp shell, the other somewhere under the seat (because those two areas are pretty-much where all the electrical components are located);
. components connected to nearest 8-way by either 9- or 14-strand wire (rated 5.75A or 8.75A respectively) - crimp-on bullets that work available for those sizes and 28/0.30 thinwall;
. the two 8-way connectors joined with two lengths of 28/0.30 thinwall wire (rated for 25A), the two lengths' other ends connected either in a ring terminal on an engine fastener (through one of the rocker-boxes and cylinder head into the block?) or in a 4-way snap connector above the engine, 4-way and engine connected with a third short wire;
. battery connected to under-seat 8-way with 28/0.30 thinwall.
I connect front indicators to the 8-way inside the headlamp shell, rear indicators to the 8-way under the seat.
Hth.
Regards,
Is what I do:-. two 8-way snap connectors, one inside the headlamp shell, the other somewhere under the seat (because those two areas are pretty-much where all the electrical components are located);
. components connected to nearest 8-way by either 9- or 14-strand wire (rated 5.75A or 8.75A respectively) - crimp-on bullets that work available for those sizes and 28/0.30 thinwall;
. the two 8-way connectors joined with two lengths of 28/0.30 thinwall wire (rated for 25A), the two lengths' other ends connected either in a ring terminal on an engine fastener (through one of the rocker-boxes and cylinder head into the block?) or in a 4-way snap connector above the engine, 4-way and engine connected with a third short wire;
. battery connected to under-seat 8-way with 28/0.30 thinwall.
I connect front indicators to the 8-way inside the headlamp shell, rear indicators to the 8-way under the seat.Hth.
Regards,
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Hi,
You're confused ... you cannot have an "earth in" and an "earth from".
Standard '73 electrics are "positive earth". This means every electrical user (ignition coil(s), lamp bulbs, horn(s)) "earth from" them to battery +ve is 'common', can be connected to one of those 8-way snap connectors. Otoh, every electrical user's supply from battery -ve must be in an individual insulated wire through at least one switch; the Brown/Blue connected to the battery -ve terminal is a common supply wire to electrical users, but only as far as the ignition switch, the Brown/Blue is not "earth".
OR, if you use "negative earth", this means every electrical user's supply from battery -ve ("earth in" to components) is 'common', can be connected to one of those 8-way snap connectors. However, then every electrical user's return to battery +ve must be in an individual insulated wire through at least one switch; again, the Brown/Blue now connected to the battery +ve terminal is a common return wire from electrical users, but only from the ignition switch; again, the Brown/Blue is not "earth".
So, unless you're actually rewiring a late Gold Wing with fairy lights and optional Christmas tree lights (you're posting in the wrong forum), I can't think of a reason why you'd want more than one 8-way inside the headlamp shell ... When I rewired my first T160, with 1) 28/0.30 thinwall wire towards the engine and battery, the seven individual component earth wires were: 2) headlamp, 3) pilot lamp, 4/5) indicators, 6) speedo. illumination, 7) tacho. illumination, 8) headlamp warning (6, 7 and 8 were later combined into one 'earth' wire at the 8-way after I added the oil pressure gauge).
. Standard '73-on rear lamp, the three rear lamp wires and an original Lucas indicator single wire pass through the forward grommeted wiring hole in the side of the mudguard. However, earth wire added to each indicator, five wires won't ...
. I nicked an idea from the late 1960's dry-frame bikes for the rear lamp's three wires - instead of the '73-on 83-4806 "Wiring protector", I used 82-7826 (also "Wiring protector"):-
![]()
... both ends of the 82-7826 will mount on a '73-on dry-frame 'guard, one end also matches the '73-on rear lamp's wiring exit, I use the 82-7826 as a template to make one extra hole in the 'guard (under the seat), hole sized (1/2"? ID) to take a standard Triumph wiring hole grommet, the rear lamp wires then run straight up the middle of the underside of the rear 'guard.
I'd consider a "spine" to be just the 28/0.30 wires between the two 8-ways and including the 28/0.30 wire between the under-seat 8-way and the relevant battery terminal.
I start with each handlebar switch cluster's cable in through the corresponding wiring hole in the headlamp shell. Wires to be routed rearwards exit the headlamp shell through the opposite shell wiring hole (i.e. not through the central shell wiring hole) - dry-frames, I zip-tie wires to the top frame tube; OIF, wires can be passed through the frame gusset holes first if desired:-
. Then there isn't one large group of wires out of the headlamp shell's wiring hole to be manipulated around the frame steering head directly behind ... the central wiring hole can be used for wires from things directly above - e.g speedo. 'n' tacho. bulbs wires?
. Most snap connectors - including the earth wiring 8 -way lie across the shell between the wiring holes, below where the headlamp reflector will be. I strongly advise against bolting the snap connector to the shell - the wiring moves a little as forks are turned right or left, you'll lose the flexibility.
Standard alternator stator wires won't reach a good sheltered position for the reg./rec. Otoh, the "regulator/rectifier output" wires should be connected directly to the corresponding battery terminal. Wise would be to site the reg./rec. close to the battery; why would you route reg./rec. DC wires to the battery half-way to the alternator position first?
If you use one of the Honda pattern reg./rec. from Ebay, they connect with a plug anyway, no good reason to add another set of connections only a few inches away.
Connect reg./rec. DC wires only to corresponding battery terminals, not anywhere else. Connect bike's other DC wires only to corresponding battery terminals.
What for? Seems overkill ...
Bike without an electric starter, main fuse in the one-and-only wire connected to whichever is the desired battery 'earth' terminal:-
. It's extremely difficult to isolate all electrical components from the bike's other metal parts.
. If something metal accidentally touches the battery 'not-earth' terminal itself, only a fuse in the one-and-only wire connected to the battery 'earth' terminal will prevent the damaging short-circuit. When Lucas first supplied looms with a fuse, they fitted the fuse in a one-and-only wire connected to the battery 'earth' terminal; however, after about a year, Lucas moved the one-and-only fuse to the one-and-only wire connected to the battery 'not-earth' terminal. Why? Dunno, I've never seen a logical reason printed or posted; however, the change has been buggering Britbikes (and other property) ever since ...
It's also wise to put a fuse in one of the wires between reg./rec. and battery.
Because only one side (supply or return) of a component must be insulated from the bike's other metal parts ('earth'), a component's insulated wire is the only one that can be fused. Fwiw, I use individual fuse holders that can be clipped together, one end of each holder connected to a battery terminal as/if desired. E.g. not appreciated by many is any plastic electronic ignition 'box' isn't 'earthed' (because the 'box' is a switch) so, as it needs a lower-rated (5A?) fuse than the bike's main one, only the Box's supply can be fused. Because I use individual fuse holders, the EI box fuse-holder can be clipped together with others but need not be connected to either battery -ve or +ve. Two other advantages of individual clip-together fuse holders are: the resulting 'box' is smaller than any off -the-shelf fuse-box I've seen; holders not connected can be clipped in to hold spare fuses.
Hth.
Regards,
You're confused ... you cannot have an "earth in" and an "earth from".Standard '73 electrics are "positive earth". This means every electrical user (ignition coil(s), lamp bulbs, horn(s)) "earth from" them to battery +ve is 'common', can be connected to one of those 8-way snap connectors. Otoh, every electrical user's supply from battery -ve must be in an individual insulated wire through at least one switch; the Brown/Blue connected to the battery -ve terminal is a common supply wire to electrical users, but only as far as the ignition switch, the Brown/Blue is not "earth".
OR, if you use "negative earth", this means every electrical user's supply from battery -ve ("earth in" to components) is 'common', can be connected to one of those 8-way snap connectors. However, then every electrical user's return to battery +ve must be in an individual insulated wire through at least one switch; again, the Brown/Blue now connected to the battery +ve terminal is a common return wire from electrical users, but only from the ignition switch; again, the Brown/Blue is not "earth".
So, unless you're actually rewiring a late Gold Wing with fairy lights and optional Christmas tree lights (you're posting in the wrong forum
), I can't think of a reason why you'd want more than one 8-way inside the headlamp shell ... When I rewired my first T160, with 1) 28/0.30 thinwall wire towards the engine and battery, the seven individual component earth wires were: 2) headlamp, 3) pilot lamp, 4/5) indicators, 6) speedo. illumination, 7) tacho. illumination, 8) headlamp warning (6, 7 and 8 were later combined into one 'earth' wire at the 8-way after I added the oil pressure gauge).Mmmm ... some things will depend on the rear lamp you use:-
. Standard '73-on rear lamp, the three rear lamp wires and an original Lucas indicator single wire pass through the forward grommeted wiring hole in the side of the mudguard. However, earth wire added to each indicator, five wires won't ...
. I nicked an idea from the late 1960's dry-frame bikes for the rear lamp's three wires - instead of the '73-on 83-4806 "Wiring protector", I used 82-7826 (also "Wiring protector"):-
... both ends of the 82-7826 will mount on a '73-on dry-frame 'guard, one end also matches the '73-on rear lamp's wiring exit, I use the 82-7826 as a template to make one extra hole in the 'guard (under the seat), hole sized (1/2"? ID) to take a standard Triumph wiring hole grommet, the rear lamp wires then run straight up the middle of the underside of the rear 'guard.
I understand your thinking but, for the above reasons, I haven't considered the rear lamp earth a "spine", it's a single component earth, connected to the 8-way somewhere under the seat. Each indicator earth wire also simply connects to the 8-way under the seat.
I'd consider a "spine" to be just the 28/0.30 wires between the two 8-ways and including the 28/0.30 wire between the under-seat 8-way and the relevant battery terminal.
+1.
-1.
I start with each handlebar switch cluster's cable in through the corresponding wiring hole in the headlamp shell. Wires to be routed rearwards exit the headlamp shell through the opposite shell wiring hole (i.e. not through the central shell wiring hole) - dry-frames, I zip-tie wires to the top frame tube; OIF, wires can be passed through the frame gusset holes first if desired:-
. Then there isn't one large group of wires out of the headlamp shell's wiring hole to be manipulated around the frame steering head directly behind ... the central wiring hole can be used for wires from things directly above - e.g speedo. 'n' tacho. bulbs wires?
. Most snap connectors - including the earth wiring 8 -way lie across the shell between the wiring holes, below where the headlamp reflector will be.
I strongly advise against bolting the snap connector to the shell - the wiring moves a little as forks are turned right or left, you'll lose the flexibility.Mmmm ...
Standard alternator stator wires won't reach a good sheltered position for the reg./rec. Otoh, the "regulator/rectifier output" wires should be connected directly to the corresponding battery terminal. Wise would be to site the reg./rec. close to the battery; why would you route reg./rec. DC wires to the battery half-way to the alternator position first?
If you use one of the Honda pattern reg./rec. from Ebay, they connect with a plug anyway, no good reason to add another set of connections only a few inches away.
Uh-uh - you risk:-
... which echoed the stupid mistake Lucas made where they connected original rectifiers ...You've connected the Pod to the EI without a switch in between ...
Connect reg./rec. DC wires only to corresponding battery terminals, not anywhere else. Connect bike's other DC wires only to corresponding battery terminals.
What for? Seems overkill ...Uh-uh.
Bike without an electric starter, main fuse in the one-and-only wire connected to whichever is the desired battery 'earth' terminal:-
. It's extremely difficult to isolate all electrical components from the bike's other metal parts.
. If something metal accidentally touches the battery 'not-earth' terminal itself, only a fuse in the one-and-only wire connected to the battery 'earth' terminal will prevent the damaging short-circuit. When Lucas first supplied looms with a fuse, they fitted the fuse in a one-and-only wire connected to the battery 'earth' terminal; however, after about a year, Lucas moved the one-and-only fuse to the one-and-only wire connected to the battery 'not-earth' terminal. Why? Dunno, I've never seen a logical reason printed or posted; however, the change has been buggering Britbikes (and other property
) ever since ...It's also wise to put a fuse in one of the wires between reg./rec. and battery.
For the above reasons, you can't fuse individual components' earths, there's always a risk an 'earth' wire will be bypassed, at best blowing the main fuse and stopping everything ...
Because only one side (supply or return) of a component must be insulated from the bike's other metal parts ('earth'), a component's insulated wire is the only one that can be fused. Fwiw, I use individual fuse holders that can be clipped together, one end of each holder connected to a battery terminal as/if desired. E.g. not appreciated by many is any plastic electronic ignition 'box' isn't 'earthed' (because the 'box' is a switch) so, as it needs a lower-rated (5A?) fuse than the bike's main one, only the Box's supply can be fused. Because I use individual fuse holders, the EI box fuse-holder can be clipped together with others but need not be connected to either battery -ve or +ve.
Two other advantages of individual clip-together fuse holders are: the resulting 'box' is smaller than any off -the-shelf fuse-box I've seen; holders not connected can be clipped in to hold spare fuses. Coils with only one HT lead, HT windings are connected between the coil's HT terminal and one LT terminal (+ve on original Lucas coils). Spark plugs 'earth' to the engine, absent good engine 'earth' to wiring, how's the HT circuit going to complete back to the coil(s)?
Not important as long as all electrical components have an 'earth' wire, connected to the "spine".
Hth.
Regards,
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Hi again,
. Where would you position the fuse box on the bike? I've ended up positioning the collection of individual clip-together blade fuse-holders on top of the battery, where the short wires between one end of most of the holders and one or other of the battery terminals hold the collection in place but, when the battery terminals are released, the collection lifts out of the way for access to the battery. Otoh, any of the fuse boxes you're considering are bigger than the top of any battery you'll sensibly fit.
. If you want to fuse multiple individual components, they, their switches and the wires between are all at the front of the bike; however, none of the fuse boxes are sufficiently waterproof to resist rain and road-spray directed at them. Otoh, fuse for one (headlamp?) or more (all?) lamps say, ime amd mho not really practical to have a wire from the switch near the front to the fuse under the seat (say) and another wire from the fuse back to the lamp(s).
. As I say, I've ended up placing the fuses on top of the battery ... and having just a 'main' fuse, a fuse between battery and reg./rec., a fuse for the headlamp (because its relays supply is taken direct from the battery) and the EI fuse because its 'box' is under the seat. In reality, good connections (so they don't fall apart) and careful wires positioning (so nothing chafes them) has meant the lack of other individual circuit fuses hasn't been a practical problem.
Again hth.
Regards,
Two other potential problems with this I forgot in my previous post:-
. Where would you position the fuse box on the bike? I've ended up positioning the collection of individual clip-together blade fuse-holders on top of the battery, where the short wires between one end of most of the holders and one or other of the battery terminals hold the collection in place but, when the battery terminals are released, the collection lifts out of the way for access to the battery. Otoh, any of the fuse boxes you're considering are bigger than the top of any battery you'll sensibly fit.
. If you want to fuse multiple individual components, they, their switches and the wires between are all at the front of the bike; however, none of the fuse boxes are sufficiently waterproof to resist rain and road-spray directed at them.
Otoh, fuse for one (headlamp?) or more (all?) lamps say, ime amd mho not really practical to have a wire from the switch near the front to the fuse under the seat (say) and another wire from the fuse back to the lamp(s). . As I say, I've ended up placing the fuses on top of the battery ... and having just a 'main' fuse, a fuse between battery and reg./rec., a fuse for the headlamp (because its relays
supply is taken direct from the battery) and the EI fuse because its 'box' is under the seat. In reality, good connections (so they don't fall apart) and careful wires positioning (so nothing chafes them) has meant the lack of other individual circuit fuses hasn't been a practical problem. Again hth.
Regards,
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Who knew you had a thread here!
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