[thefledgling]

..

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

View attachment 788566

Those appear to be "Marchant & Durward", later Unity Equipe.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[thefledgling]

Preparing to assemble back conical-hub wheel.
Polished with Autosol.

Original speedometer gear,

Pattern brake plate.

Original items have a lovely, not-copyable, patina.

 

[thefledgling]

Item for back wheel was misdelivered by courier. So far, the reputable, and premium-cost, firm was not sorted this out. So a delay.

Contract is between courier and seller. I always pay with credit card. I'll do a charge-back, get my money back from card supplier. Applies to eBay too; only use credit card.

 

[thefledgling]

So, another day in the falling-apart UK, doing the fork refurbishing instead.

Leak-proof washers to top of slider. Large washer is in freezer, ready to gently bang into top of slider.

Phenolic washers to internal mechanism. Reputed to reduce stiction. Supplier by LP Williams. Who were supposed to be supplying the rear wheel bits.

Loose studs for caliper and bottom clamp will be blue loctited.

 

[FLY-TRI-GUY]

it’s coming along, I like the satin finish on the tank my man…FTG

 

[StuartMac]

Hi,

Loose studs for caliper and bottom clamp will be blue loctited.

Unnecessary, Loctite (any sticky) will be a pita if you even need them out.

While the "bottom clamp" studs are UNC thread into the slider, neither Meriden nor Small Heath stuck 'em in with anything. I've owned eight sliders for between about 35 and 45 years, never ever had a stud come loose. Bear in mind tightening the nuts on the bottom clamps imparts friction to both the UNC and UNF threads.

The caliper mounting studs are BSF into the slider; i.e. nearly as fine as UNF. While I've replaced 'em with UNF bolts, it's only because that's what twin-disc sliders have as standard, and being able to unbolt even a single disc caliper makes refitting the wheel much easier (proper one-person job ). Again, tightening the caliper securing nuts imparts friction to both UNF and BSF threads.

Btw, risking posting things you know already:-

. When tightening bottom clamp nuts, don't use the "25 ft.lb." torque figure in '71-'78 workshop manuals, it's a misprint (unchanged from the earlier steel sliders clamps fasteners), something'll strip or break. '79-on workshop manual, the Co-op reduced the figure to 15 ft.lb. but, long before I knew that, I always just used an ordinary spanner, tightened a clamp's nuts evenly 'til they were just 'tight' - even if you don't use spring washers under the nuts, tightening the nuts 'til they're just tight bends the clamp minutely around the spindle = lots of friction on threads.

. If you do use spring washers under the bottom clamps nuts, add plain washers between spring washers and clamps, or the ends of the spring washers'll just gouge the clamps ally.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[thefledgling]

Awaiting fork oil, all assembled. Gaiters very thick, don't need clips, streamlined.

New stainless steel pistons, and new seals, in the thoroughly cleaned brake caliper.

 

[thefledgling]

Well, with the handlebars off, it's decided. It's a shame. But, there's the line, swooping along the top.

The Smith clocks that left the factory with the engine are going. Just 3,000 miles done.

I've dropped the headlamp. But they still look over-large, and can't get them low enough. I tried thinking they'd make a reasonable fairing! 😄 It's the rubber binnacle. That's them on the floor.

I'm intending to fit a single GPS speedometer/pulse tachometer. Front end will have better line, hopefully the headlamp will shine a bit more.

There will be no Speedo/tach cables now, keeping things cleaner. A little less weight. More accurate clocks.

 

[thefledgling]

So new tacho/Speedo in place. Looks fab. Very low key, but still has big dial so no squinting. Low depth. No cables.

It's triple rubber insulated. P-clips and foam inside binnacle and rubber under binnacle.

Just need to remove pictures of beans from the binnacle. It's a low-paint project after all.

 

[Flicker]

Just need to remove pictures of beans from the binnacle.

Sailor? You don't hear that word much outside sailing conversations

 

[thefledgling]

Not a sailor. Or soldier. Or tailor. A tinker(er).

Already tinkering with my next binnacle. This time an exhaust cutoff...

 

[Flicker]

Not a sailor. Or soldier. Or tailor. A tinker(er).

Already tinkering with my next binnacle. This time an exhaust cutoff...
View attachment 790143

View attachment 790142

Sweet! A wireless AFR display or wired?
Mine has a crossover pipe and I was thinking it would be an ideal spot for the transducer

 

[thefledgling]

I'm a fledgling. Don't know what a AFR display is.

It's a voltmeter/double usb outlet. For my phone as a satnav. So wired. Wires at bottom of tube, just by headlamp in-grommet. Won't see much wiring.

Black ball is for my mobile phone clamp

 

[Flicker]

I'm a fledgling. Don't know what a AFR display is.

It's a voltmeter/double usb outlet. For my phone as a satnav. So wired. Wires at bottom of tube, just by headlamp in-grommet. Won't see much wiring.

Ahhh! Air-fuel ratio
14.7:1 is the ratio that all fuel is burnt but it's awfully lean and would fry these engines

 

[thefledgling]

Now you've got me interested. Will this check bike's running correctly? Easy to fit? None of this plug chopping business?? Any links?

 

[thefledgling]

 

[thefledgling]

Feel a bit uneasy. making some progress!

Just arrived. Set of indicators. Useless biker-killing 5w incandescent bulbs inside. I knew that. There's a thread ongoing about this.

Innards out.
LED eagle eye in.

Eyeball frying 👍
Edit. Oh, the shame. That's a crumb from lunch.

On bike. 👍

 

[Flicker]

Now you've got me interested. Will this check bike's running correctly? Easy to fit? None of this plug chopping business?? Any links?

I'm no expert but all the new vehicles have them as standard equipment for emissions control
I've got one but have yet to use it.
I understand they're finicky and you have to mount the transducer where there's no influence from outside air - well up into your exhaust system
@newsh used one in his restoration thread and he probably knows way more than I do

 

[rambo]

Feel a bit uneasy. making some progress!

Just arrived. Set of indicators. Useless biker-killing 5w incandescent bulbs inside. I knew that. There's a thread ongoing about this.
View attachment 790152
Innards out.
LED eagle eye in.
View attachment 790151
Eyeball frying 👍
Edit. Oh, the shame. That's a crumb from lunch.
View attachment 790153
On bike. 👍

That led is a vast improvement to the fitting. i still like the old lucas ones i have. Where i did fit the orange eagle eye is in the headlight shell as a warning lamp. One for each side and it is 9 watt. In the dark, it is blinding when on but i rarely ride at night.