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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have connected my loom up but have a spare double brown /blue behind the battery. All I can think is this there if you have single phase zennor. I have 3 phase zennor connected to loom and rectifier has its double brown /blue connected. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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Hi,

Firstly, welcome to the Forum. :)

connected my loom up but have a spare double brown /blue behind the battery. All I can think is this there if you have single phase zennor. I have 3 phase zennor connected to loom and rectifier has its double brown /blue connected.
You're basically correct, except all '79-on Triumphs had a 3-phase alternator and rectifier. Early ones used the same system as almost all earlier Britbikes back to '65/'66 - single Zener connected across the battery (between Black and Brown/Blue wires on early '79 bikes). However, Lucas reckoned a single Zener was only good up to 12A~12.5A so, once the high-output (14.5A) 3-phase alternator became an option, it was easier to use the strip of three Zeners - one connected to each AC phase - on all bikes.

As an aside, Norton Commandos fitted with the earlier high-output single-phase alternator had a similar arrangement - two individual Zeners, each connected to one of the alternator wires.

Risking stating the blindingly-obvious, tape up that "spare double brown /blue" connector.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Hi Mannic,
What year is your ES
The late 3 phase zenner, consisted of 3 zenner diodes on an aluminium strip.
These were then connected to the AC wires on the Stator output, the rectifier is then connected in parallel to these regulated AC outputs.

The earlier version had the AC rectified to DC first, then the DC output was regulated by a single zenner.

I would think the spare terminal is for a single Zenner diode on the DC side, if you have the triple zenner diode arrangement on the AC output-this connection would be redundant. The spare connection will be a large Lucar female connector and it should hang just by the aluminium airbox as this was used to mount/heatsink the now not needed single zenner diode.

One thing to make sure of, is that the alloy strip is hard down along it’s length against a suitable large area of metal to dissipate the heat build up, the mounting at end, making easy for it to bow away from the mounting point.
I have been known to add a couple of extra very small mounting holes between the diodes on each edge to hold it down flat and hard.

Regards
Peg
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thank you. As I suspected I will just tape it up. Thinking of getting rectifier /regulator while it s easy to locate. Any suggestions on the best on the market, the locas looks good with its own plug in loom.
 

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Hi,

Thinking of getting rectifier /regulator while it s easy to locate. Any suggestions on the best on the market,
Ime and mho:-

. Either Podtronics e.g. retailed by TMS as "VR.10124/P" (at the bottom of the page). More expensive than "Lucas" (e.g. TMS VR.10124/L just above the Podtronics) but while Podtronics has been around for forty years at least and has a copper-bottomed reliability rep. and excellent back-up if required (rarely).

. Or Voltage Regulator Rectifier for Honda CBR 600 FX FY CBR900 RR Fireblade CBR400 | eBay plus 2Pcs New 5-Pin Regulator Regulator Connector for Honda | eBay (you don't actually need two but that's the cheapest on eBay UK at the moment). Afaict, been around for at least ten years, no widespread unreliability reports I can find, no backup but you can buy two and still pay less than a Pod? If those links have expired when you want to buy, simply enter "honda regulator" into the eBay Search, reorder the results with "Lowest price + P&P" and scroll down 'til you find 'em.

Fwiw, I'd never buy "Lucas" if there's a reliable alternative. The current incarnation is simply a 6-year-old marketing deal between the current "Lucas" trademark owner and Wassell, a long-time pattern spares maker with an equally-long rep. for poor quality. I've had too many problems with numerous Wassell bits over the years and even a quick search of the various internet forums for old British vehicles (not just bikes) will turn up innumerable similar reports. Wassell just never seem to give a monkeys. :(

Whichever you decide to buy, simply connect each Yellow wire to one of the alternator stator wires, the Red wire to the battery +ve terminal and the Black (Pod) or Green (Honda) wire to the battery -ve terminal (the Pod's only downside is the rambling and over-complicated connection instructions :(). Fwiw, I also put a standard automotive blade fuse/holder in one of the wires between battery and reg./rec. (doesn't matter which one), 15A fuse if the alternator is a [email protected],000-rpm one, 20A fuse if the stator's a 14.5A.

And tape up the the old Brown/Blue wire rectifier connector. :)

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Hi Manic
Shindegen RR units from Japan are generally thought of as best quality and most innovative electronics, for classic and modern bikes.
But they are mighty expensive.
There are lots of copies so you need a reputable dealer to find a genuine unit.

Podtronics have a great reputation.
1/3 the cost of Shindegen units.

Replacement Honda units have been tried by clan members long term and are working well for 10 years +.
1/10 of the cost of Shindegen.
best regards
Peg.

Edit: overlapping replies for the second time:)
Please follow Stuarts reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
While we are at it any opinions on tri spark. I rarely used the starter motor but does turn over when warm. Would the advanced electronics help. Thought it might be a good idea to upgrade while it's in bits 1981 Executive.
 

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Hi,

tri spark.
Owner Steve Kelly is a fellow T160 owner and likely to be made a saint by triple owners for making a high-spec. alternative to the Boyer-Bransden e.i.

If you look at the forums where there are more twin owners ... ummm ... there are more reliability problems posted about his "Classic Twin" system ... albeit people mostly post when they have a problem and we don't know how many Classic Twin systems he's sold vs. the number of problems.

advanced electronics help.
Aiui, the problems are with the physical connection to the crank? The first thing to break is the sprag clutch; if you fix that with an updated one, something else breaks ... ad nauseam 'til you get to the crankcases, which weren't fixed because the Co-op went bust?

If your bike still has the original Lucas Rita e.i., fwiw ... one of my T160's still has the trigger unit fitted in 1978, the amplifier was upgraded to an AB11 by John Carpenter in about 1980 or '81; the other T160 still has the trigger unit and AB11 amp. it came to me with in 1982 ... Afaik, replacement for your bike's original 5PU trigger unit still available if required and Rita amps. are fixable in GB and/or on eBay from time to time if you set up an automated search/notification.

Hth.

Regards,
 
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