[Jeri Danger]

Hi
I own a 1979 T140E, I have had this bike since 1981.
Very nice machine, it does have a few issues.
I need to work on the MKIIs for sure
My question today is about the push in pipes
Mine(original) have become sort of ratty looking
Also I was at a local pub the other day, when I came out I had a nice(new) dent at the curve just below the head.
Anyway how do I change the headers?
I assume I warm the engine and the old ones just fall out? How about installing the new ones?
This is the only push in type bike I have(well save for the Enfield)and the Enfield leaks round the
header pipe.
Thanks
Jeri

 

[GrandPaulZ]

They should just slip out with some wiggling.

 

[daveforty]

The pipes will pull out of the exhaust port in the cylinder head easily enough, but you will have problems separating the left and right pipe from the balance pipe, they will have rusted together over the years. Undo the clamps and spray lots of Plus-Gas over the joints, ane leave it a while to soak in, then lots of pulling and pushing will be required.

 

[Jeri Danger]

Hi
Thanks guys!
Yeah much as I expected, I have changed the
push-over type in the past.
I guess my other question would be.
Are there anything I can do to seal the pipes
in the head?
Or should I worry about that?
I changed the header pipe on my Enfield and it
leaked like crazy till enough carbon build-up
plugged the gaps then all is well.
But a Enfield is not a Triumph.
Thanks
Jeri

 

[daveforty]

I was never able to get a seal with the push-in pipes, they always leaked, and trying to seal them with exhaust putty etc just made a mess.

I got my cylinder head converted to have exhaust stubs in the ports and have been using push over pipes ever since. No leaks at all.

 

[pookybear]

Seal the pipes, now that is a novel idea.

Lets see in the old days that would have been an
asbestos ring. But maybe not huh!

I guess "firegum" would do fine. I just drove mine home
with a deadblow hammer.

Pookybear

 

[Jeri Danger]

Hi
I think asbestos usage would probably get
you put in jail now-a-days
sigh
Jeri

 

[REG]

Are there anything I can do to seal the pipes
in the head?

I found on my T140E keeping pipes (which are very sloppy fit at best) fully seated in ports was key to stopping leaks. It is only the brackets & clamps that hold them in place. Last time I refitted mine I spent an age getting bracket to front of engine case adjusted so when it was torqued up pipe stayed in port as well as clearing frame at muffler junction.

I marked pipe to show when it fully seated so to be able recheck while torqueing to ensure it staying in place
I torqued all working from head to muffler
I then cut some alumin strips about 20mm wide from my favorite RTD can
I tapped these "shims" in between head & pipe where i could
Then a small bead of hi temp red RTV around joint & slide cooling ring into RTV before it sets.

My second attempt at this has been very successful the secret was the brackets & clamps.

I dont mind the red RTV as opposed to black soot look
Shame about my rocker box have retorqued & it not leak now just gonna have to live with stain for now.

 

[Jeri Danger]

Hi Reg
Thanks for the info!
I would not mind the red rtv look.
I will try that.
My rocker box breather pipe leaked oil,
I just scrubbed it off with a little kerosine and
a soft brissle brush.
Thanks
Jeri

 

[DAVE M]

this guy is in the UK but sells lots of bits to make a T140 easier

http://triumphbonneville.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/product13.html

 

[nynor]

I found on my T140E keeping pipes (which are very sloppy fit at best) fully seated in ports was key to stopping leaks. It is only the brackets & clamps that hold them in place. Last time I refitted mine I spent an age getting bracket to front of engine case adjusted so when it was torqued up pipe stayed in port as well as clearing frame at muffler junction.

I marked pipe to show when it fully seated so to be able recheck while torqueing to ensure it staying in place
I torqued all working from head to muffler
I then cut some alumin strips about 20mm wide from my favorite RTD can
I tapped these "shims" in between head & pipe where i could
Then a small bead of hi temp red RTV around joint & slide cooling ring into RTV before it sets.

My second attempt at this has been very successful the secret was the brackets & clamps.

I dont mind the red RTV as opposed to black soot look
Shame about my rocker box have retorqued & it not leak now just gonna have to live with stain for now.

this is exactly how i do it. after years of frustration, this is the only thing i found to work, using the push in type headers.