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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Warning explicit sludge trap pictures. Well it didn’t look like the sludge trap had been touched previously. But looks clean to me. Very confusing this engine at least it looks like the crank is good
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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Yes it is clean just a little bit of sludge had a quick try at pulling it without success is there a good technique.
 

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That crank looks pretty decent to me.

Remember on the rod big ends at the crank - "side-to-side" means ONLY slipping on the journal ever so slightly up to the radiused shoulders, NOT "leaning over" in the slightest.

Around here, several local auto parts chains allow borrowing tools. A bearing splitter will get that pinion and bearing off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
That crank looks pretty decent to me.

Remember on the rod big ends at the crank - "side-to-side" means ONLY slipping on the journal ever so slightly up to the radiused shoulders, NOT "leaning over" in the slightest.

Around here, several local auto parts chains allow borrowing tools. A bearing splitter will get that pinion and bearing off.
Thanks for that I’ve managed to get the bearing and pinion off now. So it’s cleaning and measuring time. Before fitting new bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
There is some damage to the timing case and a bit of scouring on the bearing face. But I think it will clean up ok and shouldn’t be a problem. What are the main bearing part numbers I believe one is upgraded.
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There is some damage to the timing case and a bit of scouring on the bearing face. But I think it will clean up ok and shouldn’t be a problem. What are the main bearing part numbers I believe one is upgraded. View attachment 774497
Is your timing side bearing a roller or ball bearing type? The change is on the timing side. Used to be a ball but now its a roller bearing. Supposedly stops the damage your referring too. Be careful with bearing clearance choice. I took advice from Mick Barrett and TR7RV Man on this. Found a C3 on the TS and C2 on the DS was best. TS changed to a roller bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
Looks like it’s the ball type and looks original too. I’ll have a look to find the clearance specs you suggested. Cheers.
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I freely admit - On MY bikes, NOT CLIENT BUILDS, a nice-looking bearing like that one that would spin freely without the slightest graunching, rumbling, or ticking, would be cleaned, oiled, and go right back in.

I'm cheap, but so far, it's never been a problem.
 

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Hi, The 3 etched circles means C3.
If it came off crank easily like you just pull it off with fingers, or easily pry off with 2 screw drivers use C2 roller.
If bearing fit crank tightly meaning you need a puller. You need C3 roller.
But… normally you’d had crank pinion removed already. So you could feel tightness of bearing alone on crank. Not bearing +gear.

The 3 circles show this is old bearing. Likely original. Replace it! This metric version bearing has proven NOT durable especially in 750 twins.

A C3 roller has slightly more clearance than C3 ball. The OD & ID of races is same. Clearance is how much play the rolling elements have. On the bench you can easily feel this difference in play from C2 to C3.

Ball or roller is personal choice. Triumph went to roller in later years to increase durability. Roller is direct replacement. Just put it in. It will have more end play than ball. So you need to check/adjust primary chain line, which should be done anyway.

If you have original bearing on drive side I would replace it with same clearance factory put in.

The scratches in the case bore is from not heating case hot enough when removing/installing race. Those scratches came from you or prior owner.

I had to heat cases 300-315f. You convert to C. To free races.

HEAT!! Flywheel bolt at head & down lower on crank itself unti spit boils. This is sludge tube bolt. Factory Loctited it.

Make sludge trap tube puller. I show one on my motor overhaul thread. More later. Have to run.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
I freely admit - On MY bikes, NOT CLIENT BUILDS, a nice-looking bearing like that one that would spin freely without the slightest graunching, rumbling, or ticking, would be cleaned, oiled, and go right back in.

I'm cheap, but so far, it's never been a problem.
I must admit when the bearing was still on the crank it did indeed feel fine. But as this is my first and possibly last build along with using it to push the pinion gear off as well I’m going new bearings all round.
 

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Discussion Starter · #94 ·
Hi, The 3 etched circles means C3.
If it came off crank easily like you just pull it off with fingers, or easily pry off with 2 screw drivers use C2 roller.
If bearing fit crank tightly meaning you need a puller. You need C3 roller.
But… normally you’d had crank pinion removed already. So you could feel tightness of bearing alone on crank. Not bearing +gear.

The 3 circles show this is old bearing. Likely original. Replace it! This metric version bearing has proven NOT durable especially in 750 twins.

A C3 roller has slightly more clearance than C3 ball. The OD & ID of races is same. Clearance is how much play the rolling elements have. On the bench you can easily feel this difference in play from C2 to C3.

Ball or roller is personal choice. Triumph went to roller in later years to increase durability. Roller is direct replacement. Just put it in. It will have more end play than ball. So you need to check/adjust primary chain line, which should be done anyway.

If you have original bearing on drive side I would replace it with same clearance factory put in.

The scratches in the case bore is from not heating case hot enough when removing/installing race. Those scratches came from you or prior owner.

I had to heat cases 300-315f. You convert to C. To free races.

HEAT!! Flywheel bolt at head & down lower on crank itself unti spit boils. This is sludge tube bolt. Factory Loctited it.

Make sludge trap tube puller. I show one on my motor overhaul thread. More later. Have to run.
Don
Thanks for the info Don looking at the marks on bearing face there appears to be excess aluminium in the corner. Which I’m taking as being pushed in when the bearing was installed. Which was probably at Meriden with the looks of the crank. Thats my excuse anyway. I was able to remove the sludge trap plug without touching the indent at all and the crank bolt came out easy enough. I’d be interested in your tube remover tool.
 

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I’d be interested in your tube remover tool.
You can take a piece of allthread and bend 3/8" of one end about 95 degrees so that the end points up just a bit. After removing the crank bolt that secures the sludge tube, spray everything out with cleaner/solvent down the threads from the trap plug, to make sure it's nice and clean. Spray some WD 40 down the edge of the sludge tube.

Heat everything up around the mouth of the sludge tube with a heater gun, or wave a propane torch over it for a while till it's good and hot.

Next, fish the hook down into the tube and hook the hole the bolt was run thru, Stick a big flat hardened washer over the bare end, then run a nut down. Once it bottoms out, just crank slowly on it, and it should draw the tube out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
That sounds like tomorrows job then thanks for that screwing it out sounds good. What size allthread 1/4 about right.
 

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Hi Yazwaz, This is my sludge trap puller. 1/2-13 threaded rod. Set screw is 1/4-20 threads cut from a bolt & slotted. Note: file a flat spot to drill set screw hole through. It is very useful for lining up the hole when installing as well.

The 1/4" rod is simpler to make. Would pull the same.

Repro tubes & plugs simply don't fit the same. Try to reuse your old parts. The staking of plug may bend threads both plug & hole. Trial fit plug all the way. Very, very carefully measure the oil way in hole. Edge of oil way to crank face. Measure plug. The plug doesn't have a stop. It bottoms in threads! If too deep it will partially block oil way bore, starving rods of oil! It happens!! Do the math with thickness of plug & how deep. I recommend loctite on plug. I stake it. My threads were bent very bad from staking. I had to file threads in crank & run die over plug to correct. Then plug went too deep. I ended up grinding a "slot" in bottom of plug that was clocked to oil bore. Covered 600 miles so far. No problems. The repro plugs were even deeper, way deeper. The hollow hex plugs are lighter which can alter dynamic balance. For worse or better is crap shoot?? I searched world for NOS genuine plug. None found.

You could probably do this with 1/4" rod, but with my tool you can rotate tube to line up with hole if you move it slightly outwards with nut as you turn rod with wrench. Very easy to get perfect alignment for bolt.

My sludge tube had very little sludge. 36k miles. I installed in frame filter Motao at about 17K miles. In frame filter for T140 type bikes works really well. Simple to change & really does keep oil cleaner. Stops larger sludge & metal chips from passing through filter for real. I bought bike new. So it's all known history.
Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Purple Wood Revolver Pink Violet
Well looks like I got lucky the tube came out with very little resistance. Plug and tube are good to reuse. I’ve measured the oil feed that’s in the threads @ 5/16” depth to top of hole but the plug is 3/8 so when in flush with the crank it must restrict oil flow or is this deliberate? I think the mod like TR7RVMan advised could be in order for better flow. Strange that the threads go down so deep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #99 ·
I freely admit - On MY bikes, NOT CLIENT BUILDS, a nice-looking bearing like that one that would spin freely without the slightest graunching, rumbling, or ticking, would be cleaned, oiled, and go right back in.

I'm cheap, but so far, it's never been a problem.
I’m looking at ordering the crank bearings ASAP. I don’t want to be a cheap skate but I keep thinking that a top quality ball type in the T/S will not cause any probs and at a 1/4 of the price the money can be used elsewhere. Or should I just stump up for the roller type and forget about it.
 

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I’m looking at ordering the crank bearings ASAP. I don’t want to be a cheap skate but I keep thinking that a top quality ball type in the T/S will not cause any probs and at a 1/4 of the price the money can be used elsewhere. Or should I just stump up for the roller type and forget about it.
Review all available data, analyze your priorities, and make your choice.
 
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