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Discussion Starter #121
Nice new shed!

I hope the roofing is oriented with a slope to shed water...

Also, shouldn't there be some lumber joists running lengthwise to screw the sheet metal into? maybe it's the angle of the aspect in the photo...
The roof slopes towards the front, the slope although slight is double the minimum for that type. We've had enough rain to prove it works.

As for the lumbar joists, these roof panels made of steel sandwiching insulation have enough structural strength to be installed with cross beams like we have used.

It has taken some effort and quite a bit of time. It is good to be getting back to the Triumph, I have just sent off for registration, so there is some impetus to the build now! :) The picture shows it with some of the parts loosely fitted just for fun :)
 

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Well done with the new workshop! Glad to see you're making progress.
 

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Hi Code Man this bike will be 100% bitsa with 67 frame, 69 / 70 front end and front brake.
Engine will be a bitsa too.
Perhaps I'll start a new build thread instead of stealing this one.
 

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The roof slopes towards the front, the slope although slight is double the minimum for that type. We've had enough rain to prove it works.

As for the lumbar joists, these roof panels made of steel sandwiching insulation have enough structural strength to be installed with cross beams like we have used.
The last photo shows your joists, nice. I have never used pre-insulated panels, good idea!

Bike is coming along nicely. Not bad at all, a year and a half, for an ordinary Joe working on spare time...
 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
I have spent some time sorting the wiring. I struck lucky with an eBay item. It was for some a lightly used wiring loom, with most of the other components still attached, including the battery box, coil bracket, a PowerBox, coils, ignition switch, flasher relay and a Boyer ignition box.

Obviously I was concerned reusing wiring and I did blow a few fuses!! But I do now have all of the standard electrics work great but I wont be able to check the charging and ignition for a while yet.

The issues with blowing fuses were completely my own fault. I refurbished the switch gear about a year ago. Removed corrosion and fitting new plastic parts. I had inadvertently bent the contacts on the indicator switch a little far out, so they "sometimes" touched the metal of the casing! It took me while with a test lamp to find it. There was another issue with the switch gear from the right hand side, this was that corrosion on the main beam contacts stopped the switch working, a few seconds with some emery soon sorted that.

I also put some clear heat shrink around parts of the loom that tend to pick up a lot of crap, above the engine and the rear light wiring etc. I am pretty pleased with myself having managed to put them together and sort these problems, but I bet when I do a final fix, cable tying everything in place, I'll introduce a couple of more problems to solve :)

A couple of questions that somebody might be able to answer though!

The left hand switch gear has a White and Red wire on the bottom button that is in the loom to the main junction at the front/top of the engine in the first image. It goes live when pressed. I can't find it on the wiring diagram and there isn't a home for it on the new loom. Can anybody shed any light (no pun intended) on it? I am thinking of using it for the horn, which is currently on the right hand side top button, I can wire it up so both work, but I would be interested in what it was really for.

Also there is a White and Yellow wire from the ignition, all the way up to the left switch gear, then back to the coils. It doesn't do anything in the switch gear. I.E. it isn't on a switch, it doesn't provide power, there is a white wire that does that. Why is it there?

The images weren't take at the final stage, so they do show other things disconnected, before anyone starts diagnosing other issues I might have, or criticizing the birds nest appearance :)
 

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Discussion Starter #127
I still have no idea what the White and Red wire should be for, but I have now used it as an additional horn press which puts it in the same place on the switch gear that my T140E had it.

Other things are moving on.

I sent off for the registration expecting it to take some time. Last time it took 3 months including an inspection visit to register my T140E which was road ready and just sat there waiting for me to ride. This time the documents came back all complete in 3 weeks. Now I have no excuse not to get it finished so that I can ride it!!!

Recently I have put the gearbox back together with a little help from my Brother in Law. It is like a multi part puzzle that doesn't seem to go together until it does!!! It didn't help that the engine is in the frame, so gravity could try to thwart us! :)

We could tell that the indexing was out when moving the cam plate through the gears. After many attempts starting with it in 4th gear I found another absolutely fantastic write up online, http://www.hermit.cc/tmc/technote/gearbox/assemble_first_gear/index.htm, which suggested indexing in first. It works a treat, only took two attempts. If you look at the images the first is with the indexing just out one cog tooth. The final image closer up image shows it correct in first gear, look at how the "Bow Tie" notches line up with the black casing screw, I could match this to the images in Hermits write up to check. There doesn't look like much in it, but you can tell when testing when it isn't right.

Oh, and we got the door of my sons new garage on and working, just the top flashings and side door to go.
 

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Hi Les,

White and Red wire
Electric start.

:D I kid you not. The switch clusters were new for '71 and standard across the Triumph and BSA ranges. At the same time, BSA The Group had been planning to introduce a completely new range based on a DOHC twin 350 engine, to be known as the BSA Fury and Triumph Bandit; some versions would've had an electric starter, hence the White/Red wire.

have now used it as an additional horn press
:nod :thumb

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Hi Les,

The white/yellow is the kill switch. It's normally closed so feeds the coils. Press it and the switch opens, disconnecting the coils. Check the switch operation with a meter.

I've just re-built a '72 T100R that I bought in bits, having been dismantled 37 years ago. My last T100, a '68, passed through my hands in one piece over 35 years ago so I never had the need to work out what each and every wire did! This time I had to refurb the handlebar switches - so you get to know the wiring pretty well.

And yes, the white/red would have been the electric start.
 

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What an amazing transformation of this bike! I am in awe.

I also really liked the first start video on the other bike. I also have one of those videos, but it went on so long it had a little too much colour commentary to post.

Thanks for keeping this up. There are number of things that have helped me with my comparatively simple project.
 

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Discussion Starter #131 (Edited)
Well I have moved things along quite a lot. In fact I am hoping to get out for the first ride today. Was going to a couple of days ago, but when checking it over I found a couple of issues. No doubt there will be many to follow.

Decided to take GrandPaulZ advice to get a running bike before getting too stressed about cosmetics, so the mudguards and tank are pretty make do and mend, although the patina look does grow on me after the experience with the T140E I had.

The throttle cables have given me quite few headaches. When fitted, without adjusters at the top of the carbs (for those that know this, saving them commenting :) ) there was no free play, to the extent that when you turned the bars it opened the slides in the carbs. I had to shorten the outers with a small hand grinder cutting disk.

Anway here is a video taken a week ago of its first start after its slumber. Technically it isn't the first start, I had already made sure that it would fire, but wanted to save the first proper start for my son! Look at the amazement on his face that it started, or is that joy! :) He has started a blog website called Spanner Rash so I am hoping to expand on this build on there for him. Also it gives me license to buy another project :)

We already spotted the sealing needed on the header pipe, and I think I have sorted the backfires that were happening, but if you spot anything else do let me know.

 

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Discussion Starter #133 (Edited)
Hooray!

That's a milestone. Get out and test-ride it CAREFULLY.

Test brakes first, in the driveway...
HA, thanks for the advice GrandPaulZ. You sound like me!! I have done the first ride, I stopped half way to adjust the idle which was a tad high! All of this is available on a video, posted below, idle adjustment is at around 7 mins.

The bike has run pretty well over the first 10 miles. I keep finding neutral from 1st, but I think that is me getting used to the right hand gear change. Not used one in 30+ years, and have ridden a lot of left shift.

In fact I am amazed at how well it is running, must be heading for some catastrophe!! :)

I would have done more miles, BUT, because I didn't want to put the holes in my nice new number plate in the wrong place, just in case I changed the brackets, I tied it on with cable ties. YES, the obvious happened it fell off! To add insult to injury, on the helmet cam footage of my return journey I can see it laying on the floor. As soon as I realised I went back to try to find it but it was gone. So another is on order, I won't worry about drilling holes in it this time.

Anyway here is the first ride!

 

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Ouch! Knowing what the classic black and silver plates cost - I've bought 2 this year - that would have hurt!

Sounds very nice though! Well done.
 

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Good job! I thought you were out of your mind when I first saw this thread and have been following along. I must admit, I didn't think this one would get finished so congratulations to you and your son. That bike sounds great.
 
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