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Pictures from above post

I obviously haven't figured out how to add multiple pictures with content between them. Here are the first 2 pictures I tried to attach in my post above.

Chuck

IMG_4000.JPG

IMG_3998.JPG
 

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Pay careful attention to weld joining the wheel when fitting Outex or any other kit. Triumph obviously decided to skip the "smooth the welds" step on the rims because they weren't sold as tubeless, meaning some (but not all) have a really crappy weld cleanup on the sidewalls and won't seal properly unless you smooth them off with a file.
This bike had dodgy welds both front and back. Way to go, Triumph!
 

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I'll add my name to the list of folks who have used the Outex kit to convert my T120 spoked rims to tubeless. Very satisfied. It's been 4 months and 1500 miles (it is winter) and not even a leak. And since it is winter and the Bonnie has been sitting in the shop sipping away on the Battery Tender, I am pleased to report pressures are still good. I have been riding for 40 years and it has been my experience that tubeless rims lose some pressure during winter layovers.

I purchased my kit on e-Bay for $133. I was getting new rubber put on my bike, so I coughed up another $120 for the dealer to install the Outex kit for me. They made it clear they could not warranty the conversion, but privately the mechanic told me he has installed over a hundred of these kits and I shouldn't sweat it.

So far so good. Now I can leave the tire/tyre irons, patches and glue home, and just bring my Aerostich plug-and-compressor set.
If I may ask who on the east side/seattle did the conversion for you? I have a thruxton that I want to convert as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #144
I'll add my name to the list of folks who have used the Outex kit to convert my T120 spoked rims to tubeless. Very satisfied. It's been 4 months and 1500 miles (it is winter) and not even a leak. And since it is winter and the Bonnie has been sitting in the shop sipping away on the Battery Tender, I am pleased to report pressures are still good. I have been riding for 40 years and it has been my experience that tubeless rims lose some pressure during winter layovers.

I purchased my kit on e-Bay for $133. I was getting new rubber put on my bike, so I coughed up another $120 for the dealer to install the Outex kit for me. They made it clear they could not warranty the conversion, but privately the mechanic told me he has installed over a hundred of these kits and I shouldn't sweat it.

So far so good. Now I can leave the tire/tyre irons, patches and glue home, and just bring my Aerostich plug-and-compressor set.
Seems like money well spent to me. With all the faffing about I’ve done it would have been worth it to just pay and play. The latest setup is working perfectly though.👍🏻
 

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Discussion Starter #146
[QUOTE

rock & roll baby[/QUOTE]

Ooooooooh! Red! :p Even if they play up, they look fantastic and should be good for a few extra MPH :grin2:
 

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I'm reluctant to go tubeless given how easily the stock wheels bend. Some potholes dinged mine up pretty good. In fact I bent mine pretty easily changing a tube. Anyone who's gone tubeless had issues with this?
 

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I’ve had no issues with rims bending on any of mine, including a Tiger and 2 Scramblers (865 and Street) which have done some pretty rough off road. I even broke 9 spokes at the one time on my Tiger with no damage at all to the rim. If you’re bending rims while changing a tube you’d maybe better change the tools your using, or your approach, and maybe try avoiding potholes......
So to answer your question, 11 Triumphs in 10 years, 4 with spokes, and never had any problem with any of the rims.
 

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I'm reluctant to go tubeless given how easily the stock wheels bend. Some potholes dinged mine up pretty good. In fact I bent mine pretty easily changing a tube. Anyone who's gone tubeless had issues with this?
The way you asked the question you are only looking for responses from people with problems. Can't help you there. I do agree with CanberraR3 that if you are bending a rim changing a tire you are doing something wrong.

Chuck
 

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I’ve had no issues with rims bending on any of mine, including a Tiger and 2 Scramblers (865 and Street) which have done some pretty rough off road. I even broke 9 spokes at the one time on my Tiger with no damage at all to the rim. If you’re bending rims while changing a tube you’d maybe better change the tools your using, or your approach, and maybe try avoiding potholes......
So to answer your question, 11 Triumphs in 10 years, 4 with spokes, and never had any problem with any of the rims.
I used two 11" tire spoons and some dawn soap. Bent the wheel pretty easy.

Never thought to avoid potholes. Thx for the advice.

I
 

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It's been 6 months or more since I went tubeless and the tyres have stayed up without need of a top up since then. Last week I had a flat and discovered a nail in the tyre, 15 minutes later and an emergency mushroom plug later I was on my way to work. I am very glad I did this modification and would recommend it to all.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
It's been 6 months or more since I went tubeless and the tyres have stayed up without need of a top up since then. Last week I had a flat and discovered a nail in the tyre, 15 minutes later and an emergency mushroom plug later I was on my way to work. I am very glad I did this modification and would recommend it to all.
Great job! This is exactly the the situation that confirms the value of this conversion.
 

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Hi. I am new to this Forum and own a T120 here in India. I have recently done the tubeless conversion and felt a great difference in the steering, however not for the good. It now pulls in more inwards on slow speed turning. Is that normal? or have I missed out something? Also, the torque settings for the front axle would be greatly appreciated if anyone here has them please.
 

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That's usually because your front tyre has low pressure. The conversion makes no difference at all to steering, so the fault lies elsewhere

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
 

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That's usually because your front tyre has low pressure. The conversion makes no difference at all to steering, so the fault lies elsewhere

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk
ok. i shall get the pressure checked again. Also would you know the torque setting for the front axle?
 

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Well, I have these settings with me already. However I will check the pressure and get the info from the dealer here for torque settings. Is there anyone here who has the latest workshop manual on these Bonnie's?
 

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Discussion Starter #158 (Edited)
The Haynes manual specifies 65Nm for the front axle. The factory recommended pressures are 32psi front , 36psi rear.
I usually run a bit higher than these but running too low will render your handling sluggish.
I also quit the basic and somewhat ordinary Pirelli Sport Comp or whatever they are a long time ago. Even the Avon AM26’s were a big improvement but I’m on Michelin now.
 
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