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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone and yes this is my first post so take it easy on me.:)
I am trying to help a mate get this bike going, we were told it's a 57 Tiger 110, but I have searched the world trying to find a exact match so it appears it may have a couple of odd parts. the engine number seems to indicate a 1955 if we have read correct (T110, 57500).
We finally got spark the other night with the plugs out, but stopping her running before starting her is causing a headache. We run a wire from the cap on the magneto (new stuff to me) to a kill switch and then turned the motor over but the plugs still seemed to spark ??
If i put a screwdriver onto the tip of the magneto and onto the case it did not spark, so bit confused on what is happening. checked for resistance from inside the cap to the end of wire and there is some showing, but I would have thought this would have done the job.
Any suggestions would be great.
Cheers
718909
718910
 

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Your lead and kill switch are failing to connect the magneto kill stud to the bike frame, engine and magneto case, by the sound of it.

Does the switch connect the lead to the handlebar or headlight (wherever you’ve mounted it)? If it does, then maybe you have a poor connection between the bars/forks and the rest of the frame. Don’t expect the greasy steering head bearings to conduct satisfactorily- there should be a wire connecting the headlight shell to the engine or frame or a return to the battery earth terminal, in which case the battery earth lead should be connected to the engine or frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your reply, I have connected the wire direct to the frame, separated from the switch and also to the engine its self and made no difference. We tried cleaning the cap with electro clean today and getting zero resistance after that and still made no difference. the end cap certainly goes on all the way and I am sure it is connecting to the nut inside so has me stumped.
 

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Hi Glenn,

Firstly, welcome to the Forum. :)

stopping her running before starting her is causing a headache. We run a wire from the cap on the magneto (new stuff to me) to a kill switch and then turned the motor over but the plugs still seemed to spark ?
Your lead and kill switch are failing to connect the magneto kill stud to the bike frame, engine and magneto case,
+1.

Fwiw, I'm not a fan of random bits of bike forming any part of an electrical circuit. It might've worked when the bikes were new and saved a few pennies on a bit of wire but ime the principle and practice fail on much younger Japanese bikes, never mind a 63-year-old Britbike. :(

If your kill switch has two wires, ensure one is connected to the aforementioned mag. kill stud and the other to the mag. mounting on the engine.

If the kill switch has only one wire, it's connected to the mag. kill stud? If so, then connect another wire from close to the switch (handlebar clamp bolt?) to the mag. mounting on the engine.

In either case, use an Ohm-meter or Ohms setting on a multi-meter to verify good continuity between mag. kill stud and switch, across the switch and between switch and mag. mounting.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Here's a thought based on the '61 Bonnie I had with K2F magneto ignition: that magneto end cap had a small spring loaded carbon brush that runs in contact with the end of the kill stud; it completes the circuit from the threaded terminal on the outside of the cap (which goes to the kill switch wire tag). Your kill stud appears to be very rusty or dirty - normally the carbon brush makes a slightly polished spot on the domed stud. Is your carbon brush and/or spring missing?
 

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“If i put a screwdriver onto the tip of the magneto and onto the case it did not spark,”

So, the kill wire and switch circuit you are installing does not have continuity to the magneto case, although the screwdriver blade has. You can fix that more easily than we can advise. Where is the circuit failing?

Does a wire on the stud kill the spark when you touch its bare other end to the magneto? Does it when you touch the wire to the crankcase? A bare metal frame stud? The handlebar? Does the switch earth the wire to whatever it’s mounted on?

Stuart is right: a return wire is more foolproof than frame return, but it is unusual for frame earth return on the kill switch to give trouble.

Works racing (and winning) teams have used a hacksaw blade and insulating tape on the handlebars to kill the spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok, I finally got somewhere with all your help and sorry been so long for me to come back. I did what Brian suggested and polished the nut up but was hit and miss after that,so knew we were on the right track. We run the wire direct back the mag and nothing. Then I remembered the spring question. below is a picture of the cap and its not the most healthy thing. I rolled up some electrical tape and jammed it under the copper to push the carbon brush out as far as I could and it shorted straight away when we put it to the mag. Thank you
I gather there is a spring missing from under this copper so we are going to make something to fit.
719435


The next question we have, we noticed in all the turning over of the motor that we are not seeing any oil being pushed back into the tank. Could this be just because not enough speed by hand ?
All the reading I done on it I though we should have seen some movement with the scavenger pump picking up something and pushing it back, please correct me if we are wrong?
We are not going to try starting until we know if there is now an oil problem.
Thank you to all
 

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You'll be there till Xmas if you look for oil while hand cranking.
You could tow the bike to look for return? Or a set of starter rollers?
I know naff all about mags
 

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Hi Glenn,
I would like to suggest that observing the oil return to the tank is not the best way to establish if the pressurised oil system is working. The pump only pushes a very small amount of oil every stroke 1 or 2ml at the most. If you monitor the return system you will need to wait until the crankshaft is full, then the crankcases need to fill high enough for the return system to pick up, then you have to fill the return pipes it will take a long time. If you have a pressure side problem then you will have kicked the engine so many times dry, you risk damage to the crankshaft bearings. Additionally if you have primed the crankcases with oil, the return could only be the oil you used to prime the system.

You might find that you are better served by observing the pressure feed directly as it only takes a few kicks. Towards the front of your timing cover is a small bolt, this seals a direct passage to the oil gallery between the pump and oil pressure relief valve. If you remove this bolt and kick the engine a couple of times, you should see oil pulse out of this passage, if it does that is all you need for a safe start up, put the sealing bolt back in and you are ready to go.
You know the pressure side is working, after fire up the pressure relief valve teltale button should pop out.
In the unlikely event the return side does not work, the crankcase will slowly fill with oil, but it won’t damage the engine.
If the return side is working then oil will start pumping back to the tank 15-30 seconds after start up.

regards
Peg
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Peg, we thought about looking at that bolt so we will give it a go now. The teltale is another story as it does not seem to be there as it is only a cone nut or is it under this ? as it does not seem the come off.
Cheers
 

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Hi Glenn,
On later bikes they did away with the pressure indicator I don’t know when that was, perhaps a prv from a later bike has been fitted.
your one should be like this:

719498


719499


Regards
Peg.
 

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Remove the oil pressure relief valve.
Look into the cavity behind it while turning the engine over. You should see pulses of oil entering the cavity, from the feed side of the oil pump.

Then you’ll know oil is being fed to the crankshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi Glenn,
On later bikes they did away with the pressure indicator I don’t know when that was, perhaps a prv from a later bike has been fitted.
your one should be like this:

View attachment 719498

View attachment 719499

Regards
Peg.
Hi Peg, yes I found the diagram you have, but this is not on this engine. it's suppose to be a 1955 but looking more like it's a bitsa everyday. haha
 

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People change the valve for the later blank kind when the plunger leaks oil.

You’re better having the indicator, or a warning light, or a gauge for oil pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
ok, we got a pressure indicator and we think we have the stop button worked out so we will give her a kick early next week and see what happens. Before we do that, do we need a battery hooked up ? I know it will run without it but will we do any damage to the generator if we don't complete a circuit.
Cheers
 
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