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After reading everything I could find on this site regarding oil (& there is some stuff:confused:), I eventually decided that in the interests of the longevity of my engine fully synthetic was the way to go.
I also noted the downside of the increased potential for oil leaks because of the the smaller oil molecule, as opposed the Dino Oil, that seems to find a way to get out of the motor through any miniscule aperture given half a chance, but went ahead anyway.
So after a week on Mobil 1 [0W40] I find one small drop on the floor under the bike & eventually trace the culprit to the neutral switch which is located under the motor near the oil filter:(. I tightened it up which only seemed to make it worse & eventually drained the the precious mega buck oil, removed the switch & re-installed it after adding a blob of Loctite 5699.
Put the oil back in & so far so good.
I must add though that I am very happy that I made the switch to fully synthetic oil, the bike starts easier, runs smoother & "feels" like it runs better. I'm staying with it.:)
Hope this helps someone else.
 

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I have to say that I don't buy into the synthetic oil has more chance of leaks theory. I will have to see some pretty solid data to believe that.

I reckon that Dino oil would have found your leak just as easily.

Still I hope you have it fixed now - leaks like that are just irritating in the extreme!
 

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I agree that synthetic oil can have the "possibility" to leak a little easier than dino. Here's my logic on it....

Over the years of using nothing but synthetic in my 88 5.0 Mustang, I developed a leak on one of the valve covers just before 50K miles. Fortunately, the motor had a 50K warranty, so it was all corrected by the dealer... anyway, I got a chance to look at the valve cover. Absolutely no sludge at all in there. So my theory is, as the parts start to age (in this case, gaskets), the lack of sludge allows openings to happen that would have been otherwise "sealed" by the sludge of a cheaper oil. The Mobil1 in this 'stang was changed faithfully every 3.5K also.

All that said, I'll stick to the better oil (syn) and worry about the leak later, if it ever happens.

Now, if you really want to develop this thread into a true oil thread, let's talk about brands. Take care of your bike and scrap that Mobil1 for Rotella - less than 1/2 the price and much better oil. When I switched, I immediately noticed better shifting, better starts/idle, and better general feeling of the bike. And, I swapped out the Mobil1 after 500 miles, so it was still fresh when I made the switch.

And - shameless plug for a great service here - have your oil checked by Blackstone Labs. They will tell you all kinds of things about your motor for $20. www.blackstone-labs.com -- I'll send you a sample of what their report states, if you are interested.
 

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I'm using Amsoil 10-40 fully synthetic in both my bikes. Change at 5000 km. 32000 on the Speedmaster, 15000 on the Tiger no leaks or problems with either
 

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...if it ain't leaking somewhere, it ain't being ridden hard enough.:D
...worrying about miniscule leaks takes too much time away from riding.
...the above philosophy is more aptly applied to the chain lubrication instructions for O and X ring sealed chains. Tell us why it makes a difference whether the chain is warm or not since if the lube can get past the seals, the chain is toast anyway.:D Chains have improved immensely since the old days; however, the lube instructions remain nearly the same as far as frequency.
...a clean bike is not ridden enough.
 

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Blackstone Reports

I posted my oil reports up on my website - if anyone is interested.

www.reallycooldude.com/oil_1.pdf and oil_2.pdf. Only have two reports for now - 3rd sample is currently at the lab being checked. Will post it when it arrives - it will be oil_3.pdf.

1st report is with 500 miles on the motor. 2nd report has an additional 675 miles (or so) - Blackstone said my lead was a little high. 3rd report will hopefully look a lot better on the lead. That oil has 5045 miles on it.

Again - a lot of piece of mind from Blackstone for a $20 analysis....
 

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C&B,
My 07 is leaking from the same place. I will fix it in the Spring, but yeah I have little drips from that same switch.
 

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Thanks Wyo for the oil report. I'll be looking forward to seeing the higher mileage report. It is interesting stuff. I would suspect some aluminum to be present since at least some of the bearing surfaces (valve cams that I know of for sure) are aluminum.
My anecdotal opinion on the synthetic oil leakage theory is that viscosity is viscosity. I don't buy the smaller molecule theory really... since if one type of oil were able to penetrate smaller places in a more rapid rate than another type of oil, that oil would have a lower viscosity. I would definitely accept the idea that a thinner (lower viscosity) oil might leak more than a thicker (higher viscosity) oil. I'll keep an open mind though since there are probably a million factors affecting engine oil when it is in operation and a million more things I do not know about the physics of oil.
The sludge theory is interesting and makes a lot of sense. I
don't know if it is true, but if it IS true then it makes sense. If it is true then I personally would much rather have a few small leaks on the outside than to have a sludged up engine on the inside.
Like I mentioned though I think there are a million things happening to the oil while the engine runs and there must be more than one thing affecting both oil leakage and sludge build-up. My daughter's Toyota Corolla seems to have more sludge inside the engine than I am used to seeing. I'm just judging by the dipstick; I use an oil that claims to fight sludge build up but I still see it. I've heard that this particular engine is known for that.
Crankcase pressure is going to affect oil leaks too and I'm not sure how these things are vented....
 

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K&N Oil Filter Leak

Last week I had an oil leak, oil was over the pipes and brackets under bike. I wiped everything down and started it up. My K&N filter had only 3k on it. They weld the 17mm nut to the bottom of it and it was seeping oil from the seam. The weld must have gone thru to the core. I got a Fram Filter with no nut, and no problem. I will not be using K&N filters with the welded nut again.
 

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I had to replace a valve cover gasket this weekend at 8000 miles. The oil seepage was getting a little much..I rode 100 miles afterwards and not a drop was seen..I think most motor vehicles will start leaking il eventually, but at 8K?
 

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I had to replace a valve cover gasket this weekend at 8000 miles. The oil seepage was getting a little much..I rode 100 miles afterwards and not a drop was seen..I think most motor vehicles will start leaking il eventually, but at 8K?
My 2005 T100 was leaking at the valve cover gasket probably about that time too, maybe a few miles earlier even. The screws holding the cover on were very loose so I tightened them a bit. It helped but was not a complete cure. I added a thin line of RTV sealant when I did the valve clearance at 12,000 miles and now... no more leaks.
 

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Me too

My Bonneville 2007 valve cover began to leak at about 1500 miles and I just took it off and added a little black RTV which seems to have fixed it.
 

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Oh NO!! You put a Fram filter on your bike:mad:...don't you know Fram is a dirty word to bike engine enthusiasts. However, they will readily accept K&N (which I have read is made by Fram:D). My old Honda Accord has 204000 miles on it using Fram filters and runs fine; however, it is not a motorcycle--but the engine is smaller than the R3 motorcycle engine.:)
 

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i had the same problem on my 2007 bonneville with top cover gasket leaking. it had 8400 miles on it. this was covered under the warranty. i use synthetic oil since the 3000 mile mark and have not had a problem since having the gasket changed.

jack b.
 
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