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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I think that I am going to switch from synthetic to Dino. I can get Castrol 4T or Valvoline 4T at any number of local places. Synthetic Motorcycle oil is not easily available and is quite expensive. What should I change my oil change interval to, 3000mi 2500mi
 

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Mobil V-Twin 15w50 or 20w50 synthetic. :GEEK:

Same stuff as the Triumph 4t for 1/2 the price . 3k is a good thing to go by but Triumph will say you can go up to 4kmiles .
 

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Dino???

I lived in Nj for some time. The summers there can be worse than here @ times!! Gonna do dino (why?) do the change @ 2000 mi MAX!! $$? Do a semi syn? The Bonne uses the oil to cool the engine w/ a seperate pump as well as lubing all the other . Syn up there will last 6000 mi. Weigh it out? 2000 mi dino changes vs 6000 mi syn changes. Your choice? Id give her the best! Not that much $$.
 

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I hated to start another oil thread but, 8.99 a quart for Mobil 1 snthetic is just insane. I have looked at my Walmart and they don't carry the Rotella Synthetic only the Tripple formula. My local Autozone carries Valvoline, Pensoil, and Castrol motorcycle oil and occatonally has the Mobil 1. I just don't see another option
 

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I'm not a big fan of the synthetics, I've had problems with it and seen too many problems related with it. So I got the stuff outta my bike as fast as I could.

I've been using the 20w50 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil in my 07 Bonnie since it's first service and been changing it at 2500 mile intervals. I have decided since the last oil change to increase that to 3000 miles, since my oil looked almost new when I dumped it and no metal particals on the drain plug magnet.
I live in Florida and I ride my bike almost every day- hitting "the ton" at least 3 times a week. :D

My statement is just one of many opinions that you may read here, the only way to really know is to try for yourself and form your own opinion.
Good luck
 

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I hated to start another oil thread but, 8.99 a quart for Mobil 1 snthetic is just insane. I have looked at my Walmart and they don't carry the Rotella Synthetic only the Tripple formula. My local Autozone carries Valvoline, Pensoil, and Castrol motorcycle oil and occatonally has the Mobil 1. I just don't see another option
I'm running the Rotella Triple formula right now....just testing it out.

So far so good.

$9 a gallon is a NICE price fpr the triple.

On the next oil change, I will mix the 15w-40 Rotella dino triple with the 5w-40 Rotella synthetic for a nice 10W-40 synthetic blend.
 

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Dino oil

I have never been a big fan of synthetic oil and have always used mineral oil in vehicles that I own.

So for mineral oil I would suggest Castrol Activ 4T 15w-50.

This is what's been used on all my previous bikes that I flogged to death.

It's available just about anywhere so imagine it would be for you.

It will have to be changed out every 5000Kms though.

However, having said that.

And because Australian summers can be very hot and I do a lot of miles during the hot weather have therefore decided to use synthetic oil for the last oil change. Used Silkolene Comp 4 10W-40 marketed by Fuchs.
Wasnt that much more expensive and is good for 10,000Kms. And I dont know if it is mind over matter, but I reckon my bike runs smoother on this stuff
 
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I've been using the 20w50 Valvoline 4 Stroke Motorcycle oil in my 07 Bonnie since it's first service and been changing it at 2500 mile intervals. I have decided since the last oil change to increase that to 3000 miles, since my oil looked almost new when I dumped it and no metal particals on the drain plug magnet.
I don't recommend dino oil but, if you do use it, no metal particles on the magnet aren't a good indication that everything is still OK. The #1 concern with dino (there is more than one concern anyway) is it breaks down at much lower temperature than synthetic or semi-synthetic. That makes the "sludge" we old guys remember in our engines back in the day. A better indicator would be to pull the valve cover every few thousand miles and make sure that no deposits are starting to form. Also check the sight glass for signs that the oil is foaming. Good luck!

Rich
 

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Link to a short article comparing dino to synthetic. I am a synthetic type of a guy, for the reasons mentioned here.

Apologies if this link has been posted before. It's always good to revisit though.

I buy the mobil 4t synthetic - not the triumph labelled one which carries extra $ as a result - but a quick search online will find it cheaper than anywhere else, with free shipping.

http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/synthoil.htm
 

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So what does your owner's manual say? I have a Daytona 1200, not a twin. My owner's manual covers several models. Only fully synthetic is reccoed for my model due to its higher performance, but on other models semi-synthetic can also be used. My point is to not use an oil that is lessor in quality to the least reccoed oil in the manual.

Also, take in consideration where you ride and your local temperatures. Where the enviroment is sandy or hot - like Florida, the southwest U.S. (hello CommandoRdstr), much of Austrailia - change your oil more frequently as some of that enviromental grit is going to get past the air filter , and heat alone will shorten the life of your oil.

Although Triumph focuses on Mobil, other high quality oils can be equally as good. However, I do not think that it is wise to try to save money on oil, if that oil is of lower quality specification than called for in the manual.
 

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I would like to know what problems some here have had with synthetic oils. I would also like to know why some think dino oil is better, even though Triumph engineers recommend fully synthetic.

I use Mobil One as Triumph recommends, but I used Mobil One long before I bought a Triumph. I can't name all the engine builders that have recommended it also. Oil is the life blood of your engine folks it's worth the extra $$, and its a lot cheaper than motor parts.
 

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Oil

Being a coolant as well as a lubricant- its doing double duty! I cant see cheesing on it for that reason! I never used ANY synthetic before getting the Bonne. I now buy it on sale & get as much as possible- now using it in my truck. I go 1 yr+ on the truck. No problems. Dino would be 2-3 changes so I feel as I am breaking even or doing better? The bike WILL get what is reccomended! W/ air cooling & air here in the summer being 120 deg + over the pavement, the oil takes a beating!! The truck is no problem. Water cooled & higher off the frying pan! If syn oil goes like gas- we all are in for big s***!! I alwAYS RAN MY CARS & BIKES IN THE Past on Castrol 20/50. Did 3000 mi changes & all looked new inside when breaking off the cam cover! I guess all I can say is "The Times they are a Changin!"
 

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I would like to know what problems some here have had with synthetic oils. I would also like to know why some think dino oil is better, even though Triumph engineers recommend fully synthetic.

I use Mobil One as Triumph recommends, but I used Mobil One long before I bought a Triumph. I can't name all the engine builders that have recommended it also. Oil is the life blood of your engine folks it's worth the extra $$, and its a lot cheaper than motor parts.
True indeed. Mobil 1 has been a recommended oil for a long time - been used in a great many tough applications.

Problems with synthetic oil are a myth. Synthetic outperforms mineral oil, and that's all there is to it. Talk to a tribologist if you don't believe me. I have, and synthetic goes in all my engines.

I have no reason for using the following smiley - I just feel like it. :cool:
 

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the only problem with synthetic oil is when you start using it after having used dino oil after many thousands of miles.

synthetic oil desludges the machine and has a slight affect on seals that have been conditioned with dino oil, possibly causing some minor leaks.

Mobil1 has been reported during oil analysis to have a high iron content from engines that are of cast iron construction, but of course this doesnt apply to Bonnie engines.

for me its synthetic for the bike and dino for my Jeep
 

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the only problem with synthetic oil is when you start using it after having used dino oil after many thousands of miles.

synthetic oil desludges the machine and has a slight affect on seals that have been conditioned with dino oil, possibly causing some minor leaks.
That's one of the myths. Synthetic used to contain ether which would go after some seals. It doesn't anymore.
 

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I have no reason for using the following smiley - I just feel like it. :cool:
Now, that's just cool!

I'm not one to complain about the ongoing oil debates. I always learn something.

I dumped the break in oil out of my new Scrambler at 200 miles and replaced it with Honda non-synthetic for the remainder of the break in period. Then I put in the Mobile good stuff. I read that that was a good idea on one of these threads, and it made sense to me. What do the oil gurus think of this?
 
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