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Sticky Suspension thread area: Mod's, reviews and maintenance. How and what you have do and how did it work out.
Safe riding to you. :smile2:
 

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love to hear folks views on progressive springs on a street twin,also tec preload adjusters.will the preload adjusters nullify the effect of the progressive springs.ie compressing the soft part of the sping.look forward to anyones views on the subject
 

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Hi,
I put in Wilbers prog springs in my ST a few weeks ago. Also changed the fork oil to 15w as some members on another thread here said that it made the suspension stiff. Also added preloads, nothing fancy but cheap ones as I thought that its only a screw action that drives a disk into the top of the spacer.
My logic for this setup was - if I used 15w oil and preloads I would have a wider setting range to work with instead of 20w. I cant really give a good reason for not sticking to the stock 10w. Guess I wanted to change something.
Here is my experience so far - ride quality has improved much. Road holding is better. The front setup doesnt sweat the small stuff and undulations of the roads. The larger bumps have lost the jolting effect I had on stock suspension. Bike feels more planted up front. Definitely a worthwhile upgrade. Now the rear shocks started to feel like crap. (I have some questions there but they will be in another post)
So I decided to play with the springs a bit and yesterday went 2 rounds with the preloads(my cheap ones dont have the clicks)And today the ride got much more stiffer. The jolts are back. I had the same idea as you previously that the preloads will eat up the softer, closely coiled spring making it stiffer. Now I am pretty sure it does.
So I think if ones does so research and plays a bit with oil and gets a spring with the appropriate spring rate there is minimal need for preload adjusters. Though its always good to have them for some adjustability.

Cheers!
 

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got the hagon springs supplied with thinner oil,hell of a difference ,emailed hagon about adjusters .they reckoned with the springs they aren't needed ,have to admit theyre right .

got hagons on the back as well with damping adjust an preload.for what its cost its transformed the bike
 

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I put Nitron R1 Twin on the Thruxton 1200. I'm very happy with the performance. They have that plush feel and simple to adjust and look very slick in stealth colours.
I have Bitubo fully adjustable cartridges/springs on the Stock forks. With the preload dialled in fairly well they are also very plush on the bumps. I don't know how they compare to other cartridge kits or to the Thruxton R's USD forks, but they are better compared with the stock Kayaba cartridges and they look very slick, and the stock Kayaba cartridges were quite good in my opinion, but these are better.

Would recommend both kits to anybody, but if funds are light, go upgrade the rear first.
 

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I put Nitron R1 Twin on the Thruxton 1200. I'm very happy with the performance. They have that plush feel and simple to adjust and look very slick in stealth colours.
I have Bitubo fully adjustable cartridges/springs on the Stock forks. With the preload dialled in fairly well they are also very plush on the bumps. I don't know how they compare to other cartridge kits or to the Thruxton R's USD forks, but they are better compared with the stock Kayaba cartridges and they look very slick, and the stock Kayaba cartridges were quite good in my opinion, but these are better.

Would recommend both kits to anybody, but if funds are light, go upgrade the rear first.
Hi,

I just put K-Tech Razor Lites on my Thruxton 1200 S and noticed that the top of the shock body is hard against the top mounting lugs. Doesn't seem right to me. Fitting was easy, and it will make no difference if I swap left to right or rotate 180 degrees. I only checked because I saw another forum comment on his Nitro shocks and how they had badly chipped both the shocks and the mounting lugs. Automotive lighting Headlamp Tire Automotive tire Footwear
 

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2017 Street Cup, installed TEC progressive springs, their preload adjusters to set static sag properly, and went with 20W BelRay fork oil. It's still not as good as real adjustable forks, but WAY better than stock, and now the front is better matched to the Fox shocks out back... I have considered pulling out a little of the 20W oil and adding back an equal amount of 30W to increase damping a little more, but too thick oil can be a problem if you hit a hard bump and it can't flow through the damping rod fast enough... so I might just leave it alone until I can just have my tuner put proper valving and springs in and do it right...
 

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with suspension upgrades its what YOU want + are willing + able to spend!! most of us are just "regular" riders + buying the best is NOT necessary or smart unless you have excess $$$ + our ability will not use it!! small tweaks can make a big difference as manufacturers dont know if a 100 lb rider or a 300 lb owns the bike or how we ride!
 

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been searching + see better shocks + fork kits are NOT as cheap as when i had my 2012 cast wheel bonnie DUH!!! from 500 to 750 is quite a jump + CarpiMoto where i got good pricing on my Bitubo shows nothing for the water cooled bonnies. have yet to really ride since its winter + being retired i am just window shopping!!! at 160 lb dressed i am hoping the T120 gives me a good enough ride.
 

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after a lot of searching BritishRacer.com popped up, lots of better stuff at decent prices delivered to usa, so even before a lot of riding i popped for a set of Bitubo WME shocks that worked great on my 2012 cast wheel bonnie, all though the forks were decent the shocks stunk!!
 

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Hi,

I just put K-Tech Razor Lites on my Thruxton 1200 S and noticed that the top of the shock body is hard against the top mounting lugs. Doesn't seem right to me. Fitting was easy, and it will make no difference if I swap left to right or rotate 180 degrees. I only checked because I saw another forum comment on his Nitro shocks and how they had badly chipped both the shocks and the mounting lugs. View attachment 715634
Thanks for the tip. I just checked my Nitron shocks and they where touching on both sides. No chips fortunately, and problem has been resolved by spacing them out with a 2mm thick stainless washer, but I think it's a bit of a poor show to be honest from Nitron!
 

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I put TEC progressive springs in my 2018 T 120 front forks and it has made a noticeable difference. The steering is steadier and the forks stay straight in sudden stops. I installed Fox shocks in the rear and they have been great, though I notice Triumph no longer has them as an accessory for the T120.
 

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Hello folks, I ride a 2018 T120 Bonneville. I recently changed the front fork springs over with a TEC full upgrade which has the progressive springs spacers and top adjusters. I also changed the oil over to a 15w, dont know what it was before but it looked a lot of Dextron hydraulic oil to me. Anyway the main reason I did this is to eliminate some of the brake dive when braking suddenly and hard. The old springs had way to much brake dive for my likings.
The new system is much better and with the top adjusters I can tune in or out as much brake dive that I want. Also it feel more solid around tight corners and you get a better ride that is tunable, gone in the crash boom opera when hitting sharp bumps. I found when I upgraded to the TEC springs and spacers that all I had was positive adjustment meaning you could not tune it softer than when it was put together. I opened up the forks again and cut 5mm off the length of the spacers, this allows me to now run with positive and negative top adjustment for a wider range of comfort or stiffness for cornering hard. A couple of points I found during the whole process. Those spacer washers have an upside and a downside, yes I know they look just like washers but there is a round shoulder on one side which should face downwards into the spring and the spacers or spacer goes on the flat side. Do it the other way around and the spacer will squash out over the shim. The other mistake I made was fitting the front wheel back on before putting the fender mount on. You cant do the bolts up on the fender mount with the front wheel on, so I had to take it all off again and mount the fender mount then the wheel, talk about pissed off.
Anyway the whole system is running very well now and I dont really see the need for any further mod to the front springs save maybe to cut another few mm off the spacer.
Good luck and its worth doing. I think there are a few companies that make upgrades for Triumphs.

Red 26 from QLD Australia
 

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manufacturers want you to buy their overpriced fluids, hence NO real spec. you need to compare the centistoke spec as there are NO rules-guidelines like engine oils. a 15 may be as light as a 10, go to peterverdome/suspension wiki + find your fluids actual viscosity
 

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wondering about the T120,s with one cartridge + one not!! damper rod + cartridges generally use different fluids!!!
wondering about the T120,s with one cartridge + one not!! damper rod + cartridges generally use different fluids!!!
My experience has been when I pulled my front forks off to upgrade them. I found the right hand fork has a dampening rod not a cartridge. The top of the rod screws into the bottom of the fork top nut. The dampener stays in the fork even after you undo it from the top nut. It is simply a bigger smaped piece of pipe with a bottom on it and holes in the side to allow for oil flow in through the top and out through the holes in the side. This really is what all dampeners do they are not really a very sophisticated dampener but they work ok. If you want to pull the dampener right out you have to take the fork seals out. Its a very doable home maintenance job that is not that hard to do. If you want to watch a good video on how to do it at home go to Delboys garage on youtube and look for the vid on fork seal replacement etc, his vids are really very good, he is a mechanic or was Im not sure.
I also chose a higher weight oil to refill both forks as the left and the right take the same oil and the dampener is not separate from the rest of the fork. I used a 150mm air gap but that is a bit bigger air gap than recommended. The air gap is achieved by putting the oil back in the fork then compressing it down as far as it goes and then measuring the distance from the top of the fork without the nut and where the top of the oil is and adjust it to the gap you want. The air also compresses and gives dampening and rebound. The bigger the size of the air gap will affect the way the forks perform. You can adjust the air gap quite easily by taking some oil out or adding some. Too much air or too much oil may affect the performance of the forks considerably. Heavier grades of oil will affect the dampening.
That has been my experience anyway.

Red26 from Queensland Australia
 

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when i put the bitubo cartridges in my 13 mag wheeler it was EZE. will be looking to get an EZE install kit with TWO cartridges. Delboy got some nice vids BUT the sound is not so good at times
Ok tks for that I think you can get closed and open cartridges for Bonnevilles now as well. I think there are a few places that make them like YSS and a couple of others but not quite sure on that.
 
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