[HydraDax]

As stated on the welcome center, I just bought a Super III that needs some work. IT has a bout 25k miles on which I'd consider kinda high then I see some bikes on here with 3x that. I'm calling this refurbishment because the bike is in decent condition already it just has a few problems. When I bought the bike it wouldn't rev over 8k under load and doesn't run right above half throttle. It also makes a noise that sounds like a bolt rattling that varies with rpm. It was dropped at some point I'm assuming cause the headlight fairing and RH fairing are a slightly different color that doesn't show up in the pictures. The first set of pics I took where after I already started digging into the bike.

Here is a list of things that need done for my own sake and your general viewing pleasure

Major Needs

• Carbs Rebuild
  • I ordered rebuild kits from moto-lab and I'll start tearing into them this week. I suspect though I'll need slide guides and emulsion tubes but held off for now. Does anyone know what all comes in the factory pro tuning kit? Is it just needles, mains, and pilots or does it include the tubes?
• Engine Noise
  • I first suspected this was the Alternator Drive bolt issue. I pulled the alternator and the drive was still tight. I couldn't pull it or push it either way. The bolt head was unmarked though which I'm told is a sign that its one of the drives with a problem. Could the Cush Rubbers be bad causing the noise?

Minor Needs

• General Service
  • Oil Change and Filters. Note: When I removed the Airbox there was no filter inside like someone cut out the foam.
  • Should probably check valves.
  • Plugs Note: Normally on a car I'd change Leads as well but for the price of leads it seems like you can do the stick coil conversion. Any thoughts?
  • Flush brake and Clutch fluid
• Paint & Body Work
  • RH Front Fairing has a minor crack in it from when the PO was unloading it from his trailer.
• Turn Signals
  • Needs a LF signal
  • The Rears where replaced with LEDs so I need a Relay, Load resistor, or return to stock
  • Also the RR is broken.
• Engine Cut off Switch
  • Switch doesn't work.
  • If I replace the Controls with a Euro one that has the Headlight switch is it plug and play?
• Johnson Jolt
  • Will do if I make the stick coil conversion so I have one pretty conversion harness.
  • Does it make sense to add a headlight cutout at the same time?

Major Wants

• Solo Cowl - The PO didn't have the solo cover but the bike looks so much better with one.

Minor Wants

• Center Stand - I want to put a trophy center stand on if I find one cheap

Sorry for the long rambling list but I figured this was a good place to get it out of my head.

 

[HydraDax]

I started tackling the carbs this week. I had gotten them of the bike. And started taking them apart to be ultrasonically cleaned. I purchased JIS drivers, both Bits and screwdrivers. Note: the Motion Pro JIS 1/4 bits aren't that good. I had better luck with the screwdrivers.

I stripped a few of the screws holding the bar that holds the carbs together. However the real kicker is the throttle blade screws. I stripped half of them getting them out. Any tips on drilling them out. Should I drill the heads off and try and thread them out the back?

 

[rnmdad]

I’m not far from PA, I should send you mine to go through Unless you have a specific need, I’d leave the plates affixed, you can put them in the cleaner and still get to all the surfaces right?


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[HydraDax]

I’m not far from PA, I should send you mine to go through Unless you have a specific need, I’d leave the plates affixed, you can put them in the cleaner and still get to all the surfaces right?


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Well they are'nt back together yet. I wanted to replace the felt seals on the throttle shft. Plus I don't know how they will do submerged in cleaning solution.

 

[rnmdad]

I didn’t know they were felt, automotive carbs typically use brass bushings.


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[LeT]

I'd have left the throttle butterfly plates alone. They didn't interfere in the ultrasonic cleaning for me.
On my Daytona 900, I replaced HT leads with copper and the plug caps with NGK straight but it was a real pain to do because i wanted to reuse the rubber seals that keep water our of the plug Wells. Splitting them from the stock plug caps was very hard. I cut away the bottom half of each one to make it possible. Happy with the result though.
Indicator stalks are a problem with age.
Stock air filters are very good, made by Piper cross. If your airbox is rough, just order a factory replacement air filter because it comes with the box as a complete unit.
Good luck with your project 👍😃

 

[nicholasj]

Are they the same Indicators as fitted to the T595?
They sorta look the same; but the pictures aren’t clear enough to tell. But, IF they are, then- - -
You can buy replicas -T595 type- from WEMOTO. In England.

https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjgnou5uP7zAhXKbSsKHeimDbQQFnoECAoQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.wemoto.com%2F&usg=AOvVaw0hkq6QuRupxMsMIQTqYTqJ

 

[LeT]

They are different from the T595 parts. Sprint manufacturing do replacement stalks for a modest price (£9) or complete pattern units for £20:

Electrical Archives - Sprint Manufacturing

All the early T300 bikes 750/900/1000/1200 have the same indicators.

 

[HydraDax]

I haven't made much progress. I got the Throttle Plate Screws out. I filled the back of the screw off then used LEft Handed drill bits and extractors. I saw the new stalks on SPrint manufacturing. I have to order a few other items so maybe I'll order a replacement stalk at the same time. Or I could order two new indicators for the rear and the rear stalks, to have stock indicators all around. I haven't decided yet.

 

[HydraDax]

Well its been awhile since I last posted but life has a way of preventing you from getting things done. I finished rebuilding the carbs and got them installed on the bike.

However on my test ride that sligh knocking noise became a violent one. The engine oil has brass in it and I'm thinking a rod let loose. Anyone have experience rebuilding one of these know about what it costs. Or have a line on a good running super 3 engine?

 

[rnmdad]

Maybe just a bearing, time to pull it and split it, get a part list together. That’s my next step for the Trident I picked up.


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[LeT]

I think your refurbishment has just become a rebuild. Super III are very rare. I don't think there's any chance of finding a used motor. You could probably find a standard 900 but the pistons are different so you'd end up wanting to strip it anyway to install the high compression pistons. That is a possibility if your crank is ruined. But from what you've written, it sounds like you've caught it in time.
A long time ago, on my Daytona 900, I replaced the centre big end bearings, cylinder liner and piston all with the bottom end still in the frame. I had access to the centre cylinder from underneath with the sump off. The crank journal was unmarked - I acted quickly too. IIRC, Cylinders 1 and 3 would not have been possible though. The reason in my case was grit in the cylinder causing seizure. My fault entirely. The good news is I've done 60,000 miles since then with only cam chain replacement needed. In any case, your first move is to get the sump off to look for more clues but my guess is the same as yours - big end failure.
You'll be fine doing a rebuild. Drain the oil coolant, radiator off, exhausts off, Jack under the sump to support the weight, remove the two front engine mounting bolts, pull the cam cover, cams out, head off, remove the rear engine mounts and out she comes.
Gaskets are about 180.
Good luck and please post updates. LeT

 

[LeT]

@HydraDax : Update?

 

[HydraDax]

Unfortunately not much to update on. I'm caught in the thick of race season and have been at the track or prepping a race car so I haven't been able to look at the bike. It will probably be a winter thing with the way things have been going.

 

[HydraDax]

Well, I hope everyone had a Merry Christmas. During the holidays I was finally able to get some work done on the bike. I was able to pull the engine are tear it down. Found a lot of metal in the sump and the number 1 rod had spun the bearing. The rod overheated and blued so should probably be replaced. The crank has some scoring. From looking online Triumph doesn't sell undersized bearings so I'm hoping they can be polished out and remain in spec but I'm not very hopeful. I'll probably be in the market for a crank. Are all 900 cranks the same and does the 900 crank match the early 955i at all? Just trying to see what my options are. Also any opinions on while your in theres?. The bike needs a new front sprocket so I'll replace that and the seal while its apart. I know the sprag on these goes but don't see a reason to replace it if its still good.
Pictures of the Damage.

Photo dump since my brother was there watching me work. Note, The collection of bikes in the basement has grown including a Super Tenere and KTM 640 Adventure. Not Triumphs but I like to think its a pretty neat collection.

Engine Out of the bike. It actually wasn't as bad as I was expecting came out fairly quickly

Motor Tear down Pictures

 

[HydraDax]

Additional Pictures. Head Off. When pulling the headbolts we stripped one. Was able to get it out using an extractor and an impact drive but I figure I'll get a whole set. I don't know if they are torque to yield like most automotive head bolts but it can't hurt.

Also anyone know the purpose of the stacked gears with different number of teeth on the balance shaft? I just thought it was interesting how both gears are meshed with the crank.

 

[LeT]

It's to make then quieter in operation, reducing whine.

Thanks for the pictures and updates. The 900/885 T300 cranks are the same. The T500 series are different.

The bearing shells are sized with codes on the crank webs and cases for mains, rods for big ends. You might be able to find a good fit with different selection after polishing the big end. It's hard to tell how much material would need to be removed from the picture.

Good luck with this - definitely worth doing.

 

[Trident999]

Additional Pictures. Head Off. When pulling the headbolts we stripped one. Was able to get it out using an extractor and an impact drive but I figure I'll get a whole set. I don't know if they are torque to yield like most automotive head bolts but it can't hurt.
View attachment 801761

Also anyone know the purpose of the stacked gears with different number of teeth on the balance shaft? I just thought it was interesting how both gears are meshed with the crank.
View attachment 801762

The reason for the stacked gears on the balance shaft is to eliminate backlash/chatter. One gear is sprung loaded so will move to align with the crank wheel. Also known as a "hunting tooth".
Good luck with the rebuild