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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I haven't found a commercial offering that I thought did a good job all around of cleaning up the rear end without having some (in my eyes) shortcomings. Okay, the Rizoma model looks nice, but I'm sure not chalking up $250+ for a fender eliminator! The rest seem to either have questionable tail light cowl fitment, or require the removal of the tail cowl altogether, and or create excessive gaps in the rear upper tail section.

I've seen a couple other threads on DIY tail tidys and they look good, but I tried to come up with a DIY solution that made the most sense. The benefit of this version is that the upper section of the original license plate light frame remains intact, so there are no gaps in this area (no more than the factory setup at least) and the ambient air (temp/pressure?) sensor remains in the factory location. It should also be much more sturdy than using the stock rear reflector location (the plastic cowl) for the mounting location of the plate and signals.

This version also requires a minimum to moderate amount of fabrication. It is mostly cutting/removing excess material, and creating a simple additional piece to finish the puzzle. It utilizes as many of the factory fender assembly parts as possible for convenience.

See below for all of the info you will need.


Materials Needed:

  • Aluminum or steel sheet stock (.06" minimum recommended), my cost $4.57
  • License plate light (still haven't decided what I'm going to do, might go with led license plate bolts)
  • Five M6 x 1.00 nylon locking nuts / Five M6 washers (stainless recommended), my cost $5.51
  • Spraypaint
  • Your time
Total Cost: $10.08 (plate light not included, yet)








Tools Needed:
  • Dremel and/or cutoff tool
  • Angle grinder and or bench grinder
  • 1/4" and 3/8" drill bits
  • Allen wrenches, torx driver, metric wrenches
  • Various files and sandpaper is helpful
Modifying The Stock Assembly:

I cut the frame along the red lines visible in the pictures. Make sure and cut below the spot welds on the top flat section of the frame. You want these to remain on the portion we will be using.

I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel and a dremel. Round all edges and finish with a file and then some sandpaper. I sanded the entire surface of the frame; since the cut edges needs to be painted, I decided to paint the entire thing. Be sure and clean it off very well with paint thinner or rubbing alcohol and a lint free cloth before painting!









Here are pictures with this part of the mod finished and re-installed on the bike.








Creating The New Plate Bracket:

Using the diagram below (at 96 dpi), you can create this bracket. I imagine most will be using handheld power tools to do the job, so cutting the bracket out of a printed sheet of paper, and tracing it to your material should be fine. This is essentially how I did mine.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
The final bracket diagram I worked up is slightly more simple than how mine turned out, which is pictured below.








Modifying The Reflector Bracket:

Take the stock rear reflector bracket and remove the reflectors; they come off quite easily. Then, with the above new part fabricated and mounted up, temporarily mount the reflector bracket to the new part. Have someone hold the bike upright, then use a small level to mark two level lines where the excess material will be cut off. You will want to use your signal light mounting surface as a reference to decide where exactly you want to cut.

I used some tape to make the lines more obvious when cutting. See pictures below.





Carefully measure/mark the rear most hole for the turn signal wire on both sides. This hole is 3/8." Then test fit each signal light and mark the bolt hole for each. These botl holes are 1/4." At this point I also traced the outside edge to remove excess material and have the bracket be flush with the signal mount.

Smooth all edges and sand the entire surface. Prep, prime, and paint! Pictures below.













Just for general reference; license plate lights that could be used if you modified the design to allow fitment, below.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...e&category=ACCENTS&Page2Disp=/specs/ld1-x.htm

http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/KT-Series-Interior-Light-90mm-x-32mm-3-x-LED-White

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/1/4/70/28193/ITEM/Puig-Plastic-License-Plate-Light.aspx

http://www.radiantz.com/index1.html?c78.html&1 (under warm lights section)

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-...ge&category=ACCENTS&Page2Disp=/specs/falm.htm
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Mounted up and then finished! The brass bushing/spacer used on the inside of the signal mount is slightly too long and won't allow you to full secure the signal lights. I'd grind off about around 1mm of its length to get a tighter fit. Otherwise you may have droopy signals, and we don't want that..





 

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Very nice!
 

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That really looks amazing. turn signals and brake lights can be one unit and that will be totally clean. I think I will copy this.
 

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For some reason I can not see any of the pictures. Is anybody else having this issue. I would really like to investigate this option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmm the pictures are still loading for me? Are viewing from a place that perhaps filters/blocks photobucket?
 
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