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I was the same sp115.I thought that I had made a mistake too.I cruised this forum for a while and learned about all the mods. I was still shocked about how under powered these bikes are in there stock form. With mods now on except for the O2 sensor it is a completely different bike. Love it as is and the mag wheels are starting to grow on me. The quirky starting does set it a little too far a part though.
 

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fiftyohm you hit the nail on the head! I did want a Harley all along, every since a few days after I traded in my 05 Dyna Glide in on the Bonneville. I'm not slamming Bonnevilles, they are a fine machine if that's what floats your boat but I didn't find the joy that I had hoped for. I'm 69 years old and started on a BSA Super Rocket when I was 16, the next bike was a Norton Atlas ythen years of Japanese bikes followed before my first Hardly Ableson. Harley has it's short comings too, but they work for me and that's all I ask. IMHO Triumph and the aftermarket does not do the Bonneville justice for support
If it's all the same to you, I'm going to count you as one of my personal heros, or icons, or whatever you wish to call it. Basically, if when I'm 69 years old and still riding and blogging about bikes, I'll consider myself blessed whether I'm riding a Triumph or a Harley.

And though I'll never have your experience, nor ride all the classics you've ridden, I'll try to be as honest and forthright as you.

Ride on - and for God's sake, be careful my friend.

Fifty
 

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Fixed mine

I was having this issue on mine for the first several weeks. Every 4-5 starts, it would crank only one time when the start button was pressed, regardless of fast idle knob position, battery charge level, hot/cold, etc. It was happening at least once a day kind of thing, and was very disheartening on my brand new bike.

After thinking the whole thing through, I found something that fixed it for me and it hasn't done it for at least 50 starts in a row now. I adjusted the clutch lever out one notch. That's seriously all I did. Seems like it pulls the clutch out a hair more since there's a hair more pull length in the lever. The lever position wasn't pushed too far out for regular use either, and it literally hasn't had that start problem since November.
 

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Not sure how the whole thing works, but I'm guessing that since you can't start the bike without the clutch in, maybe it's something like the sensor (button/switch/mechanism) isn't engaging completely. I don't know, and yea it sounds strange, but it's working great for me now. I rode her around for a couple weeks after I did that, and have been starting her regularly out in the shop while tinkering over the past month and a half or so. Starts first time, every time, so far! Knock on wood... lol
 

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I'm glad your bike no longer has the issue but truthfully, it is very unlikely that it has anything to do with the adjustment you made.


BTW, I would insert a relevant emoticon to indicate my comments are not mean spirited, but I can't bring myself to use such a contrived linguistic crutch.
 

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Lol. Yea, the only other things I've done are the Joker ignition bracket (right side), front master cyl cover, clutch lifter bracket, Maund FDK, and turn indicators. That was all done after the clutch lever adjustment, and none of that would matter anyway either.

I don't know, maybe it was a bug that my bike just sorted out on its own! Either way, I'm glad she's running proper now.

BTW, currently removing parts for install of Dom touring silencers, ARK, SAI and O2 removal. Those should all be in by Monday, so excited!
Sorry, back on topic...

Curse those damn pesky starting issues!!!
 

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The clutch safety switch has a little operating plunger that has to spring out of its housing when the lever is pulled. The odd after-market lever might not create enough clearance in some of its various adjustment positions for the plunger to come out sufficiently to enable the starter.
 

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That makes sense. I'm still using stock levers though. No plans to upgrade those. My stock one though has 4 adjustment positions, as i assume is the same with all pre '13 bikes. Where is that plunger located?
 

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Hmm, interesting and very handy info! I wonder, has anybody modified or removed that piece and still had the same starting issues?
 

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Just a reminder that, at least in my experience, if the bike does not start on its initial very brief crank, merely keeping the starter button depressed will cause it to immediately crank again and fire. Personally I don't see that as any kind of a problem, since the bike is still starting with a single push of the starter button and in a few seconds time.
 

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Forchetto is well respected around here and the information he provided is correct. I just believe it would solve a problem unrelated to the original one being discussed.

BTW, my experience is the same as Bob D - just hold the starter button, the bike will fire once, there will be a delay and then the bike will continue to turn over and start.
 

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Yes, I know. He has been more than helpful to me in his many previous posts and threads already! Cheers! :D

As for yours and Bob's experience, if continuing to hold the start button causes the starter to spin properly after a short while, then that would further rule out anything related to the clutch switch. Only other thing I can think of that would be common across all bikes having this issue is the starter itself.

I haven't read too much on this issue since mine isn't doing it anymore, (I'll certainly post here if it does it again though) but I assume it's common across multiple years, and not just with the classic twins?
 

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...(The) Only other thing I can think of that would be common across all bikes having this issue is the starter itself.?
Actually, I'm betting when a definitive answer is found it will be related to either the battery voltage drop or crank-sensor timing. When it occurs it strikes me as far to consistent to be mechanical.
 

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(the) Absence of the the bug you that much? :rolleyes:

I hope you're right, and I hope it's something that can eventually be sorted out for everyone. In the mean time, I hope I continue to have no problems with mine.

Thanks for the info guys! Forchetto, keep up the good work!
 

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(the) Absence of the the bug you that much? :rolleyes:

Ha, no! Wasn't intended to be a grammatical correction, it was intended to show it wasn't in your original text. Completely unnecessary, yet some unconscious force of habit compels me to add it. Mea culpa, for driving this so far off-topic.
 

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Clutch - I too have recently had a clutch starting issue. Drove ok to a place, stopped came back to my bike, clutch in, neutral selected, started ok, put it into 1st gear - motor stops?
back to neutral starts again ok - into 1st gear - motor stops!#@~. did this several times still trying to maintain a cool perspective with some interested bike onlookers. I adjusted the clutch cable a bit started the bike ok - into 1st gear and all is ok ???????. So was the clutch sw at a threshold of operation where the motor would start but selecting a gear cause it to bounce open and stop the motor? Hasn't done this since adjusting the cable slightly.
 

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Clutch - I too have recently had a clutch starting issue. Drove ok to a place, stopped came back to my bike, clutch in, neutral selected, started ok, put it into 1st gear - motor stops?
back to neutral starts again ok - into 1st gear - motor stops!#@~. did this several times still trying to maintain a cool perspective with some interested bike onlookers. I adjusted the clutch cable a bit started the bike ok - into 1st gear and all is ok ???????. So was the clutch sw at a threshold of operation where the motor would start but selecting a gear cause it to bounce open and stop the motor? Hasn't done this since adjusting the cable slightly.
Don't think so, the clutch switch is part of the starter inhibit circuit.
Sounds like either the side stand switch or the clutch adjustment was causing enough drag to stall the engine when put in gear.
Otherwise the engine would shut off when you let the clutch out in any gear.
 
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