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I think we are talking about different things. Since a simple cut and splice job adding a diode results in alleviating the symptom while keeping all of the ECU interlocks in place, there is no reason this same modification could not have been implemented in a different wiring harness as a running change. It would keep the essential functionality of the system while just removing this bogus voltage cutout condition. My point here is that if home mechanics can do this job in half an hour, there is no reason Triumph could not have done it as a running change.
Ah, yes of course. I can't disagree with that, all I can say is that there is more ingenuity on these forums than in any bike factory. I suppose that from the point of view of a Triumph electrical design engineer, it is only his job to wire the ECU in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications.
 

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Ah, yes of course. I can't disagree with that, all I can say is that there is more ingenuity on these forums than in any bike factory. I suppose that from the point of view of a Triumph electrical design engineer, it is only his job to wire the ECU in accordance with the manufacturer's specifications.
Absolutely. And on a related note, you know Jeep just announced that they have a "fix" for the so-called "Death Wobble" in Wranglers, which has been present in every coil-spring solid-front-axle Jeep ever made. Of course their stupid "fix" is just a replacement steering stabilizer which is like saying "the original band-aid didn't stick well enough so we'll put on another one exactly like it". The forums and owners have known how to correctly and permanently fix this for years, but Jeep can't bother to do that. Same exact thing as Triumph here.
 

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FWIW at the gas station today I just about couldn't get my '12SE started. I did the "roll it in gear" trick many times, starter wouldn't fire. Finally resorted to the "clutch on-off-on-off" over and over trick and eventually it fired.

I am close to concluding that the "diode mod" was not as effective as I had once thought. There is something else going on here. Anyone have any ideas?
 

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FWIW at the gas station today I just about couldn't get my '12SE started. I did the "roll it in gear" trick many times, starter wouldn't fire. Finally resorted to the "clutch on-off-on-off" over and over trick and eventually it fired.

I am close to concluding that the "diode mod" was not as effective as I had once thought. There is something else going on here. Anyone have any ideas?
It would be unfair at the present to blame the diode mod until you know that's the cause of the problem. From what you say, my money is on the clutch switch, since this is now the only component that provides the ground for the starter relay. The starter relay is also a contender but I would start by checking out the clutch switch first. To do this, unplug the connector in the headlamp and identify the clutch switch wires. Insert the probes of a meter into the connectors and set the meter to 'diode test', a.k.a 'beep mode'. The meter should beep every time you pull the clutch - every time. The starter relay is just a bog standard 5 pin relay available for a couple of dollars from any car parts store but make sure you get a sealed one, since the starter relays on these bikes is rubbish and soaks up water like a sponge. Another thing you could check out is the starter button, making sure the contacts are clean and they are connecting on every push.
Moving further on, if those components check out fine, the next thing would be the starter solenoid. You can check that simply by putting it across the battery with a meter in beep mode attached to the battery posts. Do not switch on the ignition during any of the meter tests and disconnect the component under test. The last thing in the chain is the starter motor which may be seizing up. To test that, simply put a screwdriver or metal bar across the starter solenoid and the engine should crank.

Other things which could cause this problem are engine ground, and canbus bikes like yours (2011+) also suffer with broken crimp joints inside the main harness, just where the harness passes the steering head.
 

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FWIW at the gas station today I just about couldn't get my '12SE started. I did the "roll it in gear" trick many times, starter wouldn't fire. Finally resorted to the "clutch on-off-on-off" over and over trick and eventually it fired.

I am close to concluding that the "diode mod" was not as effective as I had once thought. There is something else going on here. Anyone have any ideas?

The clutch switch has given quite a bit of trouble. It comes both in the mechanical sense, the little operating plunger gets stiff with dirt, and electrical sense when the contacts get dirty or corroded.


This type of switch is normally used to operate front brake lights (my 1996 Yamaha has an identical one for that purpose) where the considerable current handled by it tends to keep the contacts clean. As a clutch switch, however, the current is negligible and it tends to fail through dirty contacts.


Replacement on the Bonneville is expensive as it's not available loose, only as part of the left switch cluster and wire loom, so try to remove it, check the plunger moves freely and see if you can peel back the rubber sleeve to spray some contact cleaner inside.


A couple of threads:


https://www.triumphrat.net/air-cooled-twins-technical-talk/881714-clutch-safety-switch-slowly-failing.html


https://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/272409-clutch-safety-switch-no-start.html


Removal method:






For testing with ohmmeter as Ripper suggests, find these two contacts in one of the connectors inside the headlamp shell:


 

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THANKS GUYS!

Yeah Ripper I was not blaming the diode mod :) Just rambling that it wasn't the one-shot-fix for my bike's bad behavior.

Thanks for the detailed responses about the clutch switch. I must have been losing my mind when I posted yesterday because soon after I realized that of course it is the clutch switch but I didn't get back to update my post. I'll check it today and probably replace the starter relay preemptively since it's cheap.
 

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Replacement on the Bonneville is expensive as it's not available loose, only as part of the left switch cluster and wire loom
Wasn't this same switch used on some Hondas, except that the wiring plugged on with two 4mm spade connectors? It wouldn't be much work to crop the wires from the Bonnie switch and solder them to the Honda one. Could be a far cheaper fix.
 

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Hi all

From what I have read, I am basically the only one that once the bike start clicking it wont restart, I will need to push the bike a couple of meters and then it starts :(
 

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My starting issue maybe related to a weak battery. I do have a battery tester showing voltage being 12.6-12.8 volts depending on ambient temp, but measured the CCA at 87 which is almost half of the rated 180 CCA for the Yuasa YTX12-BS.
I have already purchased a new Yuasa battery (pending to be commissioned by adding the acid), but will not likely get to install until spring due to the bike currently being in storage. Jumping the bike did get it started. Hopefully, the battery was the issue; otherwise, I will follow Ripper's post #444 which is a methodical and sound approach (humbly appreciated). This is more of a heads up that a battery showing good voltage does not necessarily mean that it has the needed cranking amps to get the bike started.
 
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