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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just replaced a faulty stator with a new one and figured I would upgrade the R/R with a MOSFET style one at the same time. It has been 3 weeks give or take since doing so and the new stator is already starting to fault... Can anyone shine any light on what could be causing this stator to overheat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I purchased a Daytona 600 specific "Mister Electrical" stator & R/R. I'm more trying to rule out any other potential factors that could cause the stator to go bad. I just sent them an email stating that the units are faulty and requesting a refund..

I plan on pulling the bike apart tonight and checking wiring as well as pulling the battery and having it tested. Anything I should look for outside of the stator and R/R?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The problem starts with buying these components off an eBay store, where the buyer is the QC.
You added nothing of quality to this post and thanks for that.
I purchased parts from VT and live in ON. Don't know what you're getting at referring to QC.

Im asking if there is anything else I can look over that could be the source of this problem.

This is not a new company(mister electrical) and this post is not me asking about what brands you like. :thwack
 

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Did you read the Stator sources sticky regarding the many options and upgrades available? there is also a link in that sticky to a very comprehensive R&R thread with various options and upgrades available, mosfet, series vs parallel... as well as discussion and explanation about specific wiring upgrades to improve the general health of the charging system.
http://www.triumphrat.net/triumph-supersports/114861-stator-sources-s-4-d600.html
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

what, you didn't search and find the many posts regarding the stator and R&R or even read the very specific sticky about your very specific question/concern?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I did read those thanks. Thats why I decided to upgrade the R/R to a MOSFET type even though the OEM one was testing to work. (can't test for regulation).
I'm just baffled that I would get a faulty unit and trying to make sure that there is nothing else that could be causing the problem which will fry the warranty replacement stator..
The majority of these posts are at least 3 years old so I would assume that more options (and more reasonably priced) would be available..
Not trying to come off as a prick I just didn't want this post to turn around to being a brand discussion.
 

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Reading all of the above YOU are assuming that the ITEMS are faulty, however you have not given any information as to how you determined this.?

Also PLEASE NOTE a "MOSFET" R/R will not do any thing to prolong the life of a stator, as they still Shunt all unused power to the stator causing heat which causes burnout. you will need a series R/R and a well known one is the SH847AA..

This is incorrect -
(can't test for regulation).
You can test the R/R as well as the Stator.

1). What tests have you completed to determine that the item are faulty.?
2). What were the output results of the test completed??



StaTOR test - there are 2 types

1) isolation test (very easy)
2) AC output test (bike running)

R/R TEST - there are 2 types

1) Diode Test
2) Regulation TEST (bike running)

You will need a good DMM (Digital MultiMeter)


Read this link post Complete the TESTs and the post back your Results.. form there we can help you..

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html
 

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I did read those thanks. Thats why I decided to upgrade the R/R to a MOSFET type even though the OEM one was testing to work.
if you read the links, you would have seen that a series R&R is the proven best choice.

(can't test for regulation).
It is possible to test the regulator. The procedure is also in the link I gave you. Are you saying YOU can't test the regulator, as in you don't have a multimeter?

I'm just baffled that I would get a faulty unit and trying to make sure that there is nothing else that could be causing the problem which will fry the warranty replacement stator..
Also in the post I linked to there are step by step instructions posted by DeCosse on how to bypass and upgrade the wiring for improved charging performance

The majority of these posts are at least 3 years old so I would assume that more options (and more reasonably priced) would be available..
Not trying to come off as a prick I just didn't want this post to turn around to being a brand discussion.
While the thread was started in '09 (7 years ago) the bikes are still the same bikes and the thread was last updated on 09-07-2015.

I'm not trying to flame you, but I believe your intent was to ask about the R&R and Stator issues, and how to hunt down the problems and find solutions. ALL the answers to these question are answered in the thread provided. We are trying to help you.


How do you know the new stator is "starting to fault"?
What issues are you experiencing that lead you to believe that the Stator is "starting to fault"
Have you done the diagnostic multimeter tests in the link provided to determine if the Stator is still in specs?
Why did you choose a MOSFET R&R over the series one that is proven to be superior?
 
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