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Discussion Starter #1
1972 Triumph 650 Bonneville T120R 4-speed

First, thanks for all the help so far.

Down to the end of a 6 month project. All back together, fluids & battery in, found ignition key, no carb leak, plugs and breakers gapped, ignition switch positions reviewed. BUT, it won't start. I may have to do a static timing. It seems like I need a timing body and plunger, as well as a timing wheel gauge/chart. Someone suggested a chop stick to find piston top position. What else would I need?

Any help appreciated.
 

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All you need for a 72 is set of feeler gauges. Plug and plunger for the hole behind the barrels and a few bits assorted washers to lock down the advance unit at full advance. And a couple of screwdrivers maybe a small adjustable wrench.


Oh yeah I forgot to say watch the points plate adjustment screws they are soft metal and easy to screw up.

K
 

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I would expect your engine to have the removable circular cover over the alternator rotor, with the pointer for strobing. This can also be used for static timing at the fully advanced position.
It is prudent to initially check the acuracy of this arrangement, either with the plunger tool you mention, or using a piston stop tool and a timing disc.
 

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Hi Vinny, You need to lock aau at full advance. I use some washers & a piece of coat hanger I flattened. See photos. It will be used to hold cam clockwise until it stops. Then snug bolt. Wire is sized such you can pull out of slot when bolt is tight.

Remember spark happens when points open.

Are you using ohm meter to check when points open?

Always back motor up a good ways, then turn forwards to take reading. This compensates for back lash in cam gears.

Remove round cover on primary & you should see pointer at bottom rear on cover & hash marks on rotor. Doesn't matter what hash mark lines up. The other has mark is not used for your motor.

Black/yellow wire goes to rear points & right coil. Verify that so you know what points are for what coil.

Do you understand how to move sub backing plate to set timing?
Don
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks. BTW, thanks for the correct name of the disc. Timing disc is more descriptive (and less lame) than timing wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Don. Very helpful. I'm a visual sort of guy and pics help a lot. I think you mean how to loosen the pillar bolts to loosen the back plate.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Static timing

Thanks for the help. Where can I find the TDC timing body (D2195) and plunger (D572)? Maybe I'm searching correctly.

Vinny
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can't seem to find the plug (D2195) and plunger (D572) anywhere on line. Where can I find them or is there a substitute?

Vinny
 

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Hello Vinnie
I use a pair of d cell batterys,some wire and a flashlight bulb soldered in series. I connect one of the wire leads to one side of the points and the other to the other side and with the advance locked in full advance. I remove the plugs and the timing cover placing the bike on the center stand and in gear I use the rear wheel to turn the engine looking at the timing mark. the light bulb should be on due to the points being closed as you get to the timing mark the points open and the light bulb should go out. If it doesn`t go out at the timing mark use the eccentrics to adjust points until it does. I have used this method on my bike and has worked for me. I had checked with a timing light and it has been spot on. The coils fire when the points open and the magnetic field in the primary collapses inducing a magnetic field in the secondary in conjunction with the condenser and you get a spark. This works real good if you have not moved the timing plate and the bike was running good previously.
Juan
 

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I don't bother with a jam washer on the advance...I simple use a small screwdriver in the cam slot to hold it in the full advanced postion while to check the opening ofthe points.....It does require a bit of coordination.. :grin2:
 

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Wow. Talk about innovative. Sounds like MacGyver. I'm working tomorrow. But I can't wait until Friday to try this out.

Thanks Juan.
 

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I don't bother with a jam washer on the advance...I simple use a small screwdriver in the cam slot to hold it in the full advanced postion while to check the opening ofthe points.....It does require a bit of coordination.. :grin2:

i found one of those old lucas stepped washers on ebay for a few bucks and bought it. it's got a hollow ground in one side so you can lock the cam in position by just tightening the bolt.

i don't know who made it. it was listed as NOS.
 

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Vinney, Trust me, lock it with washers or the special tool. You don't yet have the skill to use just a screw driver.

The large washer in my photo is a copper drain plug washer from any auto parts or hardware store. Can made of any metal.

Don
 

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I use a small 12v light and alligator clips. I set the timing and then use a small screwdriver to move to full advance. Your small light should just flash on, almost a flicker. if its any more then its too advanced, if it doesn't come on it isn't enough.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Juan

I'm having trouble putting the batteries, wire and bulb together. It would be a great help if you could post a picture of the one you use.

Thanks in advance.
Vinny
 

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Hi
If you don’t want to use a lamp or meter,
Get a radio tune it to ‘static’ rather than a station, place it near the ht lead/coil, as soon as the points open you will hear ‘click’ from the radio as the coil fires, this will be your static timing indication to line up with the 38 degree line at full advance.
Good luck
Peg.
 

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Juan

I'm having trouble putting the batteries, wire and bulb together. It would be a great help if you could post a picture of the one you use.

Thanks in advance.
Vinny[/quote]

Hello Vinny
I could not find where I placed the set up I used to time my bike but here is a small diagram of what I did. To use it you don`t have to turn the ignition on just place bike on the center stand. Remove both spark plugs a place bike in 2nd or 3rd gear to be able to turn the engine using the rear wheel. connect alligator clips together to make sure light comes on. You have to set the points gap to .014-.016 inch. Remove timing cover plug on the primary side, you will see the pointer and the alternator rotor. there is a raised flat with a scribbed line in the center that is your timing mark. Then you can connect the timing set up to the points that have the black and yellow wire which is your right hand side cilinder place one of the alligator clips on the leaf spring making sure is not touching anything else then the other alligator clip to one of the screws on the timing cover. using your rear wheel turn the engine watching the timing mark and the light bulb if the light bulb turns off before getting to the timing mark loosen the pillar stubs to rotate the points base plate to the point the light goes out as the pointer and the mark are aligned. Remember you have to lock your advance at full advanced to do the timing. I haven`t done this to my bike for quite a long time I hope that it helps you.
Juan
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I use the same as Juan but I don't use the batteries. I use the bikes own power to light the bulb. That is why I use the ignition on position. You can do the exact same thing with a small test light, the screwdriver type ones that are a dime a dozen. ie cheap.

You can also use a multimeter and set it to volts if you use the ignition on, or ohms if you leave the ignition off [it will constantly signal until you manually advance the cam with your small screwdriver].
 
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