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Discussion Starter #1
As mentioned on anotyher post my bike was parked up for two years, tank emptied and battery removed.
I got back on it recently filled it up and put a new battery in and it has been running swee, until a few days ago i am having some starting problems. all the lights come on and good to go but no response from the starting motor.
I thought it may be the clutch switch as I have a crappy aftermarket lever, (soon to be replaced with OEM) I have to sometimes hhold the clutch switch tight into the perch socket to engage it, but I asm used to this and I dont think that is the problem in this case.
However when I have the ignition on then hold the front brake on and rock the bike back and forth vigorously a couple of times then pull the cluctch lever and push the start button it fires up and runs ok,
My guess is a bad earth somewhere, I have breifly checked the starter and solenoid connections, they all feel tight and secure, and I cant see anything shorting out on the frame anywhere, although I havent yet pulled ithe vbile apart to trace the problem yet, I was jusrt wondering if there was any advise or pointers before I start?
 

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yes dude, you just fixed my bike!!:love: I just tried to start it but no response then I pressed the horn whilst the starter button was still pushed it and it fired up straight away, just done it 3 times in a row. what is the problem there then? I dont mind waking the neighbours upo with a blast on the horn to start it anyway lol
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The bike starts up lovely now, all it took was a single push of the horn to clear the problem, are the horn and starter buttons connected?? or was the ecu detecting a short and preventing the starter from running? How did you discover the fix?
 

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Horn button shares the clutch switch ground lead. There is a crimp in the wiring alongside the left handlebar that corrodes. When it goes, you will lose both the horn and starting.

I don't know why pushing the horn button made a circuit, but it's temporary. Look for my old post on the repair.

NOTE TO 955 Sprint Owners - they all do it! "When" is the variable.
 

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Horn button shares the clutch switch ground lead. There is a crimp in the wiring alongside the left handlebar that corrodes. When it goes, you will lose both the horn and starting.

I don't know why pushing the horn button made a circuit, but it's temporary. Look for my old post on the repair.

NOTE TO 955 Sprint Owners - they all do it! "When" is the variable.
That wiring Gremlin happened to me. I noticed that the bike wouldn't start but when I moved my handlebars it would start. I read the post about the corrosion in the wiring. When I got the bike home I slit open the wiring harness on the left handlebar and found the Y connection had broken. I soldered it together and it's never happened again
 

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There are corrosion issues and bad, broken or weak ground issues with my '08. I've started going through every connector and cleaning and using dielectric grease on most of them. I don't know the exact past history but with over 57k miles it's been ridden a decent amount but looks like it's lived in the southwest USA most of it's life so corrosion usually isn't that much of an issue. I also opened up some of the covered wires and fixed a couple of frayed wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
There are corrosion issues and bad, broken or weak ground issues with my '08. I've started going through every connector and cleaning and using dielectric grease on most of them. I don't know the exact past history but with over 57k miles it's been ridden a decent amount but looks like it's lived in the southwest USA most of it's life so corrosion usually isn't that much of an issue. I also opened up some of the covered wires and fixed a couple of frayed wires.
I need to do this too, although pushing the horn seemed to clear the problem but it came back, I put an OEM clutch handle back on the bike and It fires up on the spot straight away, I also had a look around some of the suspect areas mentioned earlier in this thread and I can see some rusty corroded looking bits, when I got the bike there was some small led lights threaded through the frame and bodywork, which looked crap so I removed them or so I thought, as I found a couple of thin wires which used to have these little lights on the end but have rotted away, I scrunched the wires away from the frame with a view to attend to them later, this along with the new clutch handle has transformed the start up experience altogether...bliss, I must go through the wiring though while I have the mind to.
 

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I need to do this too, although pushing the horn seemed to clear the problem but it came back, I put an OEM clutch handle back on the bike and It fires up on the spot straight away, I also had a look around some of the suspect areas mentioned earlier in this thread and I can see some rusty corroded looking bits, when I got the bike there was some small led lights threaded through the frame and bodywork, which looked crap so I removed them or so I thought, as I found a couple of thin wires which used to have these little lights on the end but have rotted away, I scrunched the wires away from the frame with a view to attend to them later, this along with the new clutch handle has transformed the start up experience altogether...bliss, I must go through the wiring though while I have the mind to.
I've had very similar issue, but haven't checked hitting the horn. Will do though.

I've been getting it started by disconnecting the 10 way connector, spray libertly with contact cleaner and connecting pins 5 to 8 with a bit of wire, and starting it. Then off, replace the connector (as otherwise you'll not have indicators!) That has made it start 99% of the time.

Very tempted to replace the connectors though, trimming back to get "fresh" wire. Does anyone know part numbers for the connectors? I'm happy to put in a Molex or similar instead, but would prefer some thing comparable with OE.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I've had very similar issue, but haven't checked hitting the horn. Will do though.

I've been getting it started by disconnecting the 10 way connector, spray libertly with contact cleaner and connecting pins 5 to 8 with a bit of wire, and starting it. Then off, replace the connector (as otherwise you'll not have indicators!) That has made it start 99% of the time.

Very tempted to replace the connectors though, trimming back to get "fresh" wire. Does anyone know part numbers for the connectors? I'm happy to put in a Molex or similar instead, but would prefer some thing comparable with OE.
Try these people, this is the complete wiring system shown But I am sure they can sell just bits and connectors from it
https://www.worldoftriumph.com/partscatalog/catalog/listing/catalog/triumphmc/modelid/232950/block/100066974-0-2/
 

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I put an OEM clutch handle back on the bike and It fires up on the spot straight away,
This is a common problem with after-market levers, especially adjustable span - the solution (if you want to still use that lever) is to trim a few mm off the plunger pin on the clutch switch - this allows the pin to extend fully even with a shorter span

I've been getting it started by disconnecting the 10 way connector, ....
Does anyone know part numbers for the connectors?
It is actually a 12-way connector (even if only 10 positions are used) - note there are 5 positions along top row and 7 in bottom row.

(note this connector is used on both left and right bar switches and is also used for the Alarm Bypass connector)

It is a MultiLock 070 series connector
- I could direct you where to buy turnkey in the US, bit harder for me to find a seller in the UK - you'll have to do a search for UK seller other than the links I will provide following

- here is an Ebay search for that part - multilock 070 12 way | eBay

Note that you have to typically buy the terminals separately and most of those links are just the housings
(what they call the male housing in those links actually uses female terminals/receptacles; the 'female' housing utilizes male terminals/pins - I would more normally designate the connector gender by its terminal, rather than the housing)

Often connector re-sellers will put together housing/terminal kits for sale as a single item:
Kojaycat in UK has the female terminal connector kit - 12 Way Female Honda GL1500 Radio Harness Connector 070 Plug - but not the male

In the US






 

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It is actually a 12-way connector (even if only 10 positions are used) - note there are 5 positions along top row and 7 in bottom row.

(note this connector is used on both left and right bar switches and is also used for the Alarm Bypass connector)

It is a MultiLock 070 series connector
This is exactly the info I need! Excellent! Thanks!

I'll check the links, as well as the normal places I'd look for electronics for work like RS, Farnell etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
This is a common problem with after-market levers, especially adjustable span - the solution (if you want to still use that lever) is to trim a few mm off the plunger pin on the clutch switch - this allows the pin to extend fully even with a shorter span
I see the point you are making in respect of the clutch pin still being partially depressed due to the after market handle encroaching the pin extention field, causing the ECU to interpret that the clutch is being held in, this would not be a problem in starting the bike as the switch pin needs to be pushed in anyway to start the engine, I think the aftermarket handle was probably not pushing the switch pin in far enough and trimming the pin would actually worsen the problem. The handle came with the bike some years ago, I have never liked it but just suffered it for this long, but there is a definate improvement in ignition since putting an OEM handle on.
 

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this would not be a problem in starting the bike as the switch pin needs to be pushed in anyway to start the engine, I think the aftermarket handle was probably not pushing the switch pin in far enough and trimming the pin would actually worsen the problem.
You have the logic reversed:
With the lever at rest position, the pin is fully depressed and the switch is open; when you pull the lever, it allows the pin to extend out - the extended position is where the switch contacts being closed;
so when you trim the pin, it means that it will reach full extension with the lever having to travel a shorter span.
 

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You have the logic reversed:
With the lever at rest position, the pin is fully depressed and the switch is open; when you pull the lever, it allows the pin to extend out - the extended position is where the switch contacts being closed;
so when you trim the pin, it means that it will reach full extension with the lever having to travel a shorter span.
Aah, I see, I have not looked at it that closely I just assumed that was how it worked, but duly noted and it makes sense in that case, (I shall take a peek tomorrow out of curiosity anyway lol) thanks
 
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