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hi i have an 06 speed triple 1050 and have had to take it back twice to JL because every so often depressing the starter button (the black one) nothing happens. it simply will not fire up. the battery is fine, plenty of volts etc

i've only had the 12k service and loathe to take another day off to get this sorted (for the 3rd time) so i am looking for a short term cure/solution if i get stuck.

typically the annoynance with the starter button happens for a few minutes - and if i rotate the handlesbars side by side, roar in frustration (in my helmet), depressing the button will kick start the engine.. however the deadness is happening pretty much all the time. in the morning, in the evening coming home, if i fill up at the petrol station.

is a squirt of wd40 the best?

the bike is gargaged home/work and it's not as if we have had a lot of rain in london these past few weeks!

any advice is welcome!!
 

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if i rotate the handlesbars side by side, roar in frustration (in my helmet), depressing the button will kick start the engine..
Sounds like one of the wires on the bundle at headstock clamp has broken. Have a looksee here and measure with a multimeter which is it. Possible for a wire to break inside the cover, but most likely the broken one will be obvious to the naked eye.

Second place I'd look for wiring probs would be the base of the ignition lock and the ignition lock wire where it is ziptied to the top clamp. The ziptie will wear through the wires eventually,

While you have the fuel tank off, might as well check and clean the main harness connectors too.


is a squirt of wd40 the best?
No.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sounds like one of the wires on the bundle at headstock clamp has broken. Have a looksee here and measure with a multimeter which is it. Possible for a wire to break inside the cover, but most likely the broken one will be obvious to the naked eye.

Second place I'd look for wiring probs would be the base of the ignition lock and the ignition lock wire where it is ziptied to the top clamp. The ziptie will wear through the wires eventually,

While you have the fuel tank off, might as well check and clean the main harness connectors too.



No.


cheers fella. that sounds like hard work (for me).
looks like another visit to JL...
 

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Snap! Got the same problem. Annoyingly it's intermittent. It could be all the previously mentioned, ignition lock, the side stand switch and the starter motor solenoid. Could be very expensive. Fortunately I'm actually taking mine back later in the week to the dealer to look at under warranty.
 

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thanks and I found it

Snap! Got the same problem. Annoyingly it's intermittent. It could be all the previously mentioned, ignition lock, the side stand switch and the starter motor solenoid. Could be very expensive. Fortunately I'm actually taking mine back later in the week to the dealer to look at under warranty.
appears to be clutch which I used to depress fully to start .. however now I have to depress about 70% in to fire it up. it gets me out of a bind and I don't have to visit dealer and take 3rd day off

Thanks everyone for help and advice
 

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This is especially common problem after installing Pazzo (or other after-market) levers - would that be the case for either of you?

The simple check is to test in adjuster position 1 versus position 6 on the clutch side & see what happens.

The solution is to trim a few mm off the end of the actuating pin on the clutch switch so it wil reliably fully extend regardless of which position the clutch lever adjuster is on.
 

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I have the same problem. And it was with my old levers and my CnR's. Apparently it is the clutch safety solenoid. I had it replaced and within the week it did it again? All I do is push it back into the lever mount and she fires up every time....:suspicious:
 

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On my old ninja, the sidestand switch pin would get stuck "in" and I would have to lean over and pull it out by hand with the kickstand up.

just somethin to look for...
 

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is a squirt of wd40 the best?
:angrysoapbox:
I would like to take this opportunity to officially offer to beat silly anyone threatening to spray WD-40 on their S3!!! WD-40 is NEVER the best option. It does nothing well. It is a poor lubricant, an average water displacer, a messy and short lived corrosion prohibitor, and a weak rust buster. Oh yeah...forgot to mention its extremely flamable!

Lubrication- find the proper lube. If your lucky, it will stop the squeek...for a little while. Wort case scenerio, it will destroy what your trying to lube, ie some plastics. It wont hurt the plastic on your controls, but it might short them out since it is conductive.

Water Displacer- unless trying to remove water from silicone based plastics (which are hydrophobic anyway), silicone lubes or water displacers are the best.

corrosion prohibitor- again, find the right one for your application. i like silicone sprays for this too, on most things.

rusted or stuck bolts- find a good penetrating lube. My fav is "PJs". I like "Liquid Wrench" too.


If you want to try a lube on your button, goto home depot elecrtical section, and ask for a "die-electric" lubricant. It will come in a blue spray can. Lowes has the same one. Its made by CRC, though any die-electric lube you find should work since virtually all are plastic safe since they are used on circuit boards.

Sorry to rant, but WD-40 has been a pet peeve of mine since my woodworking days, before I spent 13 yrs in construction and learned what using the wrong chemicals could do(or not do)
:angrysoapbox:
 

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hi guys, i'm new to this forum, i have a 05 plate speed tripple 1050 and i'm also having problems starting, i've replaced the battery and all i'm getting when i hit the button is a single click coming from under the seat, any ideas???:confused:
 

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hi guys, i'm new to this forum, i have a 05 plate speed tripple 1050 and i'm also having problems starting, i've replaced the battery and all i'm getting when i hit the button is a single click coming from under the seat, any ideas???:confused:
I'd a similar problem on my Tiger and just tightening up the electrical connections at the clutch lever sorted the problem permanently. Hope it's as easy as that for you! Cheers Tango2
 

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ok will be admit my ignorance.. but having a similar problem relative to the starter... and I trail the bike using tie downs that hook the bars close to the clutch wiring...

question relative to cleaning or tightening the clutch connections... to understand this... does this mean loosening the fitting around the rubber shroud that enters the clutch handle assembly and backing it off to get to this connections? wanted to make sure before I started screwing around and causing worse head aches.
 
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