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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am picking up a 1996 sprint 900 on saturday - in order to avoid embarrassment is there a start up sequence on this bike - i.e does it require choke , petcpck position etc - petcock apparently unreliable - is it wise just to leave in permanantly in the reserve position - should there be a toolkit and where would it be located - i have not actually seen the bike however it is described as immaculate with FSH and with less than 7K on the clock - please assure me i am doing the correct thing in purchasing the bike as i am having to travel 400 miles to do so - what should i be on the lookout for - thanks in anticipation
 

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While I can't guarantee you are making a good move, I absolutely love my Sprint Sport. More every time I ride it.

I'm a noobie myself, but I'll try to answer your Q's:
-Choke is near the left grip, pull rearward before cold starting
-Normal petcock position is pointing rearward, reserve is pointing down. If functioning properly, rearward should be good, reserve position should take any petcock issues out of the equasion. With the petcock set, and choke on, it should fire right up (assuming the battery is properly charged)
-My bike's toolkit is under the seat, stuffed under the trim panel over the tail-light.
-As for what to look out for, I'd say the normal stuff: Rust in the tank, normal function of electrics, smooth shifting...

Don't be alarmed if the bike sounds like a tractor at idle, they all do. I've heard a lot of talk about bad sprag clutches on these bikes, and the sidestand seems to be a tad inadequate. The bike will feel heavy when you sit on it, but when you are under way, the extra bulk makes for a smooth ride.

Hope all goes well. If you get it, throw some pics up.
 

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If the bike has been standing for any length of time, you may have to 'prime' the carbs with petrol. Do this by turning the petrol tap anti-clockwise and then pressing it in a little, it will only move a millimetre or two, hold it in for a few seconds then try the starter. Once it is running, turn the tap back to normal.

It has a 25L tank, 20L main and 5L reserve. Expect to go on to reserve after 140m approx. So I wouldnt recommend leaving the tap on reserve.

Should only need 1/2 choke to start from cold, unless it is the middle of winter. I usually turn the choke off asap and keep the engine running on a fast idle by turning up the idle adjuster (the big knob on the left, beneath the carbs).

Starter motor sprag clutches can be an issue, so make sure the battery is well charged up. Trying to start it with a weak battery can lead to starter motor / sprag clutch damage.

The engine is a bit noisy, especially from the top end. May also be a clunk when it goes into first gear from neutral.

Notice that these older Triumphs dont go for much secondhand, so you will be getting a lot of bike for your money - enjoy.
 

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As stated, make sure the battery is fully charged.
Don't jump it off a car, make sure the battery is good.

It will sound like a can of rocks rolling around when it first starts up, this is NORMAL. They all sound like the bottom is going to jump out of them.

As to the choke, I'm in a colder area of the country, it's not
unusual to need full choke for a minute or 3.
then work it back keeping the revs in the 3000rpm range.

yes the side stands suck, they bend at the mount. Buy a center stand, it's cheaper than repairs. Or a side stand from a Trophy, they're heavier, beefier.


Check the tires 7K, rear is close to done, front about ready for replacement.
Ask about fluids, as in when were they done ?
Look at the obvious, chain, sprockets, rust in the tank.
Pull the seat and look under it, check the air nozzles for mouse droppings.
Don't jump to conclusions.


Know how seller is lying to you ?


His lips are moving :)
 
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I think most of the issues have been covered, but there is one little embarrassing thing run into on occasion when I ride another bike: the sidestand kill switch. My old Kawi had no such thing, & the PPO pulled the associated wiring off of my Trident, so I'm used to starting the bike with the sidestand down & kicking it up before I pull off. I've been a bit embarrassed more than once when someone I know hands over their pride & joy for me to take around the block & I can't make the motor go...

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks folks - reckon i am gonna go for it - thanks again - and wish me good weather travelling north to scotland
 

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These have a vacuum petcock, so just leave it in the on position.
My start-up drill is as follows. Full choke til she fires, then back off to half choke while I put on my helmet and gloves. By then it's warm enough to ride off. I leave it on half choke for about a half mile then thumb it the rest of the way off.
And as mentioned, it sounds like a diesel at idle. Don't worry about the noise. It's normal.
 

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shine a flashlight in there and check it out. Often when a bike is stored for long periods with a less-than-full tank, condensation forms on the inside bare metal, and forms rust. Look for high areas that are less likey to be covered with a partially full tank of gas (center bulge, right-hand side, etc)
 

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On 2007-03-12 20:29, r850r wrote:
97 sprint - how exactly do i check for rust in the tank
As Shemp said, get a flashlight and look inside.
Of course it's easier with little or no fuel in it.
If you do see rust, and it's subjective as to what "alot" is,
see if a radiator shop can clean the insides and seal it.

Or run a fliter in line to trap and ***** before it clogs the carbs.
 

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If the chain and sprockets are near the end of their life...get the price down a bit as it is a liittle more involved on these as you need to drain thoil because the primary sprocket cover carries oil...then you will need a new gasket and oil seal for the gear shift etc...

If they have upreated the rear shock all the better... make sire the rear caliper is not binding, lack of maintenance can cause headaches in that dept.

Front brakes have a lot of travel on the lever..a regular beeding helps.

7K is silly low mileage....most of the fluids may need a change... lack of use can mean a bit of work compared to a bike that has been run and maintained..

It should be mint at those sort of miles...the lump is a strong as can be....will go on for ever if looked after, they are put together pretty well too, paint is thick etc

Nice thing is they sound lovely and pull low down & pull up top too :hammer:
 

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I would encourage you that this is a good buy. I believe that the T300s are overengineered as Mr. Bloor knew that his new company with the old name would have a reputation to live down.

I used to think my Sprint was top-heavy. Now, I find that if I slide forward in the seat, my reach isn't as long and low speed maneuvering is easier (the bars are quite wide). It is a great position for many miles and still sporty enough for the twisties.

Godspeed,
Zip
 
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