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Hi, JB weld is a brand of adhesives. They make many types. Epoxy is generally a 2 part system, often mixed 50/50.
Depending upon the version cure time is 5 minutes to 24 hrs. True curing takes longer.
I’d recommend looking over JB website to see what they offer. JB is sold locally in many stores in USA, but is it the best version for your use?

Exactly what version was successfully used for filling pits in the tubes?
Don
 

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I used JB Weld by JB Weld........this is the original product, it's a steel reinforced epoxy. Sets 4-6 hrs. Cures in 15-24 hrs. Allow 4-6 hrs before handling and 15 hrs (min) before putting back into use!cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Hi All-

Circling back to this thread again. I had pretty good results using all of the above-mentioned methodologies: fine brass brush, fine scotch pad and lastly, the JB Weld (original formula) metal epoxy. The surface is now smooth to the touch, and very few visible signs of rust, which seem to been neutralized with a combination of the sanding and filling. If you look close, you will see there remain small cavities at the site of the corrosion, although I am not sure if its deep enough to be an issue. I will need to take a magnifying glass to it as my eyes aren't what they used to be.

Question: should I worry about the fine micro-scratches on the chromed surface? If so, what is the best way to remove them? I only have Wet/Dry 400 grit on the shelf and I suppose I should step up to something finer, like 600 grit? Also, does it matter whether I am dry or wet sanding, not being sure of context or application of either. NMTR6 suggested clean up with Mother's or Autosol.

With assembly, it was suggested to oil the inner surface of the oil seal and the entire length of the stanchion (just below the triple trees), and every component beneath the oil seal (excluding the bearing nut), or do I have the wrong? Also, Hylomar blue is recommend for the seal holder threads and the threads on the bearing nut that holds the bearing and the shuttle valve in place?

Thanks to all for your great suggestions. I am thrilled that I have been able to salvage this otherwise serviceable part for my rebuild (while leaving me a second set). It never would have occurred to me that chrome could be sanded. :)
int - 1.jpeg
 

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Hi DU75389, Personally, I'd give it a try. I expect it should be just fine.

Did you PM Code Man for info on installing seals? I think he did a photo shoot on that a while ago. I couldn't find thread though.
Don
 

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Looking good there DU75389...........that's how I felt about referring my forks..........reduce,reuse,recycle! I've no experience with the hylomar so, can't comment. From the photo they look pretty good for install..........fingers crossed.
Polishing up with mothers etc wouldn't hurt.
Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Thanks, Don, not yet but I will.

Jeff
Looking good there DU75389...........that's how I felt about referring my forks..........reduce,reuse,recycle! I've no experience with the hylomar so, can't comment. From the photo they look pretty good for install..........fingers crossed.
Polishing up with mothers etc wouldn't hurt.
Cheers
Thanks NMTR6. Since I have previous experience with Simichrome I went with that instead. could not agree more re: the 3 R's.
 
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