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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've had my new 08 ST ABS for about two months, and one thing that's bothered me since I picked it up is that the throttle cables coming out of the actuator (the housing that the throttle cables attach into on the RH bar) touch the fairing on full left lock - which is every time you park the bike. I wasn't too concerned, just mildly irritated, as it is really just "touching" - maybe 1 or 2 mm of interference.

I want to put some risers on the bars, and so was searching through the threads here for info/experiences, especially in regards to clearance issues given the above. (Thanks in particular to caddydaddy for the posts and pics to show that the GenMar risers work with an ABS setup. I'm going to order my set tomorrow.)

But in studying pics of various setups, last night it struck me that there was something different about my bike, and took me about 3 trips back and forth from the computer den to the garage to figure it out. For some strange reason, the actuator on my bike is rotated 180 degrees on the bar so that the cables lead out on top of the switch housing, rather than underneath. Every picture of an ST that I've seen (various pics here, Triumph's web site, etc.) has the cables coming out underneath. Why is my bike different?

I had the dealer install heated grips before I picked the bike up. I didn't give any notice to the cable position while it was in the showroom, so I don't know if was oriented that way from the factory, or if it was something the mechanic did when installing the heated grips. Can anyone tell me if installation of the heated grips requires the actuator to be rotated upside down? Or if it was just the mechanic not knowing which end was up? The latter wouldn't surprise me - the three times I've picked the bike up from the dealer (delivery, install of top case/mount, and first service), the seat has been installed incorrectly. If the mechanic can't get the seat in place correctly, there's little hope for anything else...
 

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I had the dealer install heated grips before I picked the bike up. I didn't give any notice to the cable position while it was in the showroom, so I don't know if was oriented that way from the factory, or if it was something the mechanic did when installing the heated grips. Can anyone tell me if installation of the heated grips requires the actuator to be rotated upside down? Or if it was just the mechanic not knowing which end was up? The latter wouldn't surprise me - the three times I've picked the bike up from the dealer (delivery, install of top case/mount, and first service), the seat has been installed incorrectly. If the mechanic can't get the seat in place correctly, there's little hope for anything else...
My throttle cables come out the bottom, like all the '08's I have seen.
Now, the heated grips might be your problem.
There are two different heated grip sets for the Sprint. Part #A9638011 (I believe for early Sprints that had the throttle cables running on the top of the handlebar) and #A9638007 (for late model hi-bar Sprints with the cable on the bottom of the handlebar). (If someone were to lay the RH heated grip from each set with the heating wires exiting the throttle tube in the same place (3 o'clock), you would see that the throttle cable pulls would be 180° apart or opposite from each other, one at 12 o'clock and the other at 6 o'clock!) .
I found this out the hard way. I purchased a heated grip kit #A9638011 and found that when I installed the RH grip the wires exiting the plastic throttle tube were 180° opposite the machined wireway groove that is in the 3 o'clock position on the right handlebar.
By the time I discovered this I had already cut a grip wire, so could not return the set for replacement. I had to re-drill a hole in the plastic throttle tube and repair the broken wire under the grip rubber and install a layer of glass tape over the splice to insulate the heating element from the rubber grip.
Well enough of what I screwed up and on to your dealer installed heated grips.
I believe, if the dealer installed a set of #A9638011 heated grips and discovered that the wires would cut if he installed them without modification, he could have reverse the throttle housing, put the throttle cables out the top and the grip wire would lay down in the stock machined wireway with no problems!
Except as you now find the contact with the fairing problem and also the throttle cables might be a little taut in full lock.

Now, that is what I had to do was to repair my screw-up and I only was to blame for what happened. My comments are not written in stone and can very well be wrong, but I think the dealer put on the wrong grip set, they should have been #A9638007.
Hope this sheds some light on your problem.
 

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I have an '06 Sprint, which came with lower handlebars and had the throttle cables routed from the top. When the '07 model came out with higher handlebars, I could not for the life of me understand why the throttle cables were routed from the bottom...that is, until I had the higher handlebar kit installed on my bike. My shop left the cables routed from the top (despite clear instructions in the higher handlebar kit to rotate them to the bottom). At first I was a little miffed, but in the end I didn't complain. When I lock the ignition, there is very little clearance between the throttle cable and the inner fairing--sometimes the slightest of touching of the rubber boot on the cable and the inner fairing, but nothing that causes any harm. And I quickly learned that the fairing will slightly bow to accomodate turning to full stop, which one only needs very rarely. So I have left my cables that way, mainly on aesthetic grounds...

And the issue with the different heated grip kits is, I think, a likely story.

--Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
BruceC,

I believe you are correct in thinking that the dealer installed the wrong grip set. The set I have is clearly meant to have the cables exit on top due to the orientation of the inner wires relative to the throttle pulls.

Last night, I decided to take the grip off and see which end was up, and in the process, managed to break the grip wires where they attach inside the throttle tube. I thought I was being careful, but it looks like the soldering was pretty flimsy and just a small bit of tension pulled it apart. I'd been having some lack of heat issues on the throttle side, which maybe backs up the poor solder job theory, but that is kind of moot now - I broke it and can't take it back to the dealer. I will be having a chat with the dealer, though.

Unless the dealer's in a generous mood, looks like I have two choices - buy a replacement or try to fix the broken one. Hopefully it is months before I need the heat again, so I'd like to try to fix them.

The first step would be taking the grip/heat element/throttle tube assembly apart. They seem to be glued together, or more likely, epoxied. So, can anyone recommend a commonly available solvent for breaking down the glue or epoxy that will not destroy the grip, heating element or throttle tube at the same time?

And if I can somehow pull that off, I can then reconstruct the assembly so the wires are oriented to allow the throttle cables to be on the bottom of the bar.

Well, at least I can take comfort in knowing that someone else poured energy drink into their gas tank...
 

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The first step would be taking the grip/heat element/throttle tube assembly apart. They seem to be glued together, or more likely, epoxied. So, can anyone recommend a commonly available solvent for breaking down the glue or epoxy that will not destroy the grip, heating element or throttle tube at the same time.
OK, It took me about 4 hours or so to do the repair, starting from scratch, but with 40 years of electrical experience.

The heated grip is glued at both ends of the throttle tube only! With the grip/tube still on the handlebar, you can work a screwdriver or razor knife between the plastic tube and grip to cut through the glue. You have about 3/8" or so of depth to work with here. Be very careful not to destroy the grip rubber, go slowly and carefully.
When you have the end loose, roll the grip back on to it's self about 3/4"-1"(this ain't easy to do). Do not cut the varnish cambric(brown non-adhesive) insulation tape that covers the heating wires!!!
Carefully roll the brown tape away from the insulated/heating wire point of connection and gently move them out of your way. It's a good idea to check for continuity on the heating wires at this time.
Now remove the heated grip from the handlebar, take loose the switch pod, the front brake clamp and also the insulated wires back to their connector
Drill a like sized hole in the plastic grip tube exactly 180° from the existing one, for a new exit point for the grip wires.
You will see existing grooves in the throttle tube for the heating wires to lay in. Take a file of grinder and put two new grooves in the tube leading from the new hole you just drilled to each heating wire location.
Hopefully you will have about 1/2" of insulated wire to splice onto. You need a #18-22 butt connector that you cut in half and remove the insulation( if you can find seamless Thomas & Betts crimp-type connectors(or mil-spec), that would be great), your connection will be less than 1/4" long. I was afraid to solder the connection because of heat or further damaging the insulation on the feed wires.
Keep the splices about 1/2" apart, they are not insulated.Lay the heating wires down in their existing groove in the throttle tube, rout the insulated wires in the new grooves you filed in the plastic and out the newly drilled hole.
Wrap the un-cut varnish cambric tape back over the heating wires and new splices. Now, you need some 3M Scotch Brand #27 glass-cloth insulating tape or it's equal (you might have a friend who works in a power plant or refinery). You will probably have to order it at a good electrical supply house. Home Depot or Loew's salespeople will have no idea what you are talking about, don't waste your time going there!
Put one-layer thick only over the ends of the varnish cambric tape ends and the new un-insulated splices you have just made(you don't want to build up the thickness of the heated grip in one spot). This will hold-down the varnish cambric tape and keep the new un-insulated splices exactly in place.
At this time re-check for continuity at the connector.
Put a liberal amount of rubber cement around the end of the grip tube and roll the rubber grip into place and let the glue dry.
Don't worry the elasticity of the grip will pull tight over your repair.

Now put it together the right way!:)

Find the factory install instructions in the pdfs.
 
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