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Discussion Starter #1
Afternoon all.

New to Sprints (also have a Legend), so excuse the ignorance!

After having the fork seals done under warranty at the dealership (where I bought the bike, some 90miles away) I noticed the clutch cable was fouling the ignition key - due to the cable being incorrectly routed in front of the fork. Disappointed in the dealership but hey ho. Easy enough to sort I thought. Following the workshop manual (except for disconnecting the battery) I loosened the locknuts at the clutch end to allow the inner cable to be disconnected at the clutch end, then disconnected the inner cable at the clutch lever end. Rerouted the cable behind the fork leg, loosely connect the inner cable at the lever end, and then connected back up at the clutch end. Adjusted to 3mm play at the lever end, tightened the lock nuts at both ends. So far so good. 3mm play set at lever. Went to start it, and no joy!? I'm guessing it is the switch at the lever, however it looks to be free and moving, and the lever closes fully to the grip. I've squirted a touch of WD40 in, but still no luck starting it.

Does anyone have any tips, experience, or thoughts that might solve the problem? Any advice gratefully received!

Thanks, Ben.
 

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Further update: I've removed the clutch lever by taking the pivot pin out, so as to ensure the clutch switch is fully out (therefore in the correct position to enable the starter circuit) and still nothing. Ignition as usual - needles sweep, headlamps on, dash lights all okay, no click from the solenoid/starter. More confusion!
 

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Make sure you haven't accidentally operated the Killswitch, is the fuel pump running?
Normally you can hear or feel a small click as you operate the clutch switch manually, if it feels ok check the wires going into the switch they may have been strained while they were removing the forks or when you moved the cable.
 
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Hi Scotty,

Yeah, can hear the fuel pump kick in and prime the system. Had a look at the two wires running into the back of the switch and they're secure. Thanks for the reply!
 

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Hi Scotty,

Yeah, can hear the fuel pump kick in and prime the system. Had a look at the two wires running into the back of the switch and they're secure. Thanks for the reply!
I presume it was starting ok immediately before you rerouted the clutch cable?
if that is the case then the clutch switch is obviously still the favorite, presume it's in neutral so side stand switch is out of the equation?
Sorry if some of these suggestions sound dumb but I've learnt over many years not to ignore the simple things first.:wink2:
 
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Discussion Starter #6
It was starting okay the day before, certainly, and I haven't had a problem starting it in the three weeks I've had the bike.

It's showing neutral light as lit up. Would pulling the wiring from the switch effectively bypass it, or should I bridge the two wires to enable to starter circuit to operate. That would at least confirm it was the switch or otherwise (in my head anyhow!)

Cheers again!
 

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I presume it's on little spade connectors then and it's not a sealed unit, if you don't have a multimeter to test it then try starting it with them disconnected and then shorted together, not sure if it's normally open or closed with the clutch lever pulled in.
I would imagine the switch would be closed with the lever pulled as a failsafe in case of a wiring fault.
Other than that it's the usual things, starting with the battery.
 
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Discussion Starter #8
Yep, little spades. Will give it a go in the morning, and see what occurs. Fingers crossed. Cheers.
 

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I had basically the same thing happen the other day on my GT.
It was the battery dying under load but at least I got a click and a spin from the starter.
New Yuasa battery and it fires right up.

If I'm not mistaken they did something weird with the ECM and you can't just bypass the clutch switch without killing the fuel level reading. The way they wired it up I don't think it'll be too easy to jump on the 1050. Just an aggravating design.
 

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There is an electrical junction in the clutch safety switch wiring a few inches from the clutch lever. I had an intermittent connection there that would prevent the starter from working. With the manipulation you did, maybe that connection has been broken.
 

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The clutch lever switch closes when the lever is pulled giving the info to the ECU. The switch is providing a ground, zeroing the voltage at this ECU input. Maybe TuneECU shows this switch state. I don't remember off the top of my head.


As said there is a crimp connection between the horn switch and the clutch lever switch. Worth checking.


If the fuel pump operates the clutch switch is probably the culprit.


Fred
 

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I've had similar, but was caused by the acute angle of the wires to the switch causing them to break. Had to re position the wires to ensure they had contact. Clutch switch hasn't had any issues since.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks all for the help...

Update from this morning, I bridged the two wires going into the switch (lifting the rubber boot back) and it started. So that at least shows the problem is at the switch. I'll do some more investigation at the weekend and will update the thread then.

Cheers!
 
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