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Discussion Starter #1
Never had any issues with my 2012 Sprint GT before until the other day travelling home from work. Bike was running fine,then whilst sat in traffic I went to pull away when bike stalled and when i tried starting it,it sounded like it was a flat battery, turning over very slowly. Tried several times to restart bike with same result but i did notice that the engine light and oil light remained on when normally they don't,usually only the abs light stays on til you get moving. I checked the battery connections,all fine. Left bike for about 20 mins then tried again and bike fired up straight away and got me all the way home. Once home I put a multimeter on the battery and it started the bike no problem,multimeter showing 13.8v,so all good.Turned engine off,tried restarting it again, noticed oil and engine lights stayed on and bike wouldn't start?Replaced battery as I think it was still on the original and results still the same. Any ideas fellas as I'm totally stumped. Thanks.
 

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I'm not sure if it has a low oil cut-out, but perhaps you could check your level and/or pressure just in case. It would make sense for the sump to have more oil on a cold start so it can build pressure a little easier.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
  1. Plenty of oil in the bike .Trying to see where the oil pressure switch earth is but the wires just disappear into a load of wires?Battery earth lead looks fine. When the bike turns over it just doesn't sound right. Don't understand why the oil and engine warning lights are staying on? Really has me stumped! When I removed the tank I did find a socket that wasn't attached to anything,not sure if that has anything to do with the problem? Any suggestions are really appreciated.
 

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Any idea what the socket pictured above is for lads? Bike won't start and I wondered if this could have anything to do with it?
 

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Aren't engine light (MIL) and oil light on until the engine is actually running?
You can still check the battery to engine ground cable and nuts.
As a side note 13.8V is a little low except just after starting.
 

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Aren't engine light (MIL) and oil light on until the engine is actually running?
You can still check the battery to engine ground cable and nuts.
As a side note 13.8V is a little low except just after starting.
I believe that's true, but I'm not entirely certain of the order of dependencies. I've always thought my bike didn't fire until the oil light extinguished. I assumed it was an interlock feature, to prevent you from starting the engine until it has oil pressure. If that's the case, and his oil light won't extinguish, it may be a good starting point. Perhaps the oil pressure switch can be bypassed with a jumper for a short moment just to see if ignition returns.
 

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  1. Plenty of oil in the bike .Trying to see where the oil pressure switch earth is but the wires just disappear into a load of wires?Battery earth lead looks fine. When the bike turns over it just doesn't sound right. Don't understand why the oil and engine warning lights are staying on? Really has me stumped! When I removed the tank I did find a socket that wasn't attached to anything,not sure if that has anything to do with the problem? Any suggestions are really appreciated.
When you say it doesn't sound right when turning over, that worries me a bit. Do you still have compression? People often say their engine "sounds different while cranking" when the valvetrain bites the dust. I hope that isn't the case. Perhaps it is just turning slowly due to a weak battery?
 

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I believe that's true, but I'm not entirely certain of the order of dependencies. I've always thought my bike didn't fire until the oil light extinguished. I assumed it was an interlock feature, to prevent you from starting the engine until it has oil pressure. If that's the case, and his oil light won't extinguish, it may be a good starting point. Perhaps the oil pressure switch can be bypassed with a jumper for a short moment just to see if ignition returns.
The oil light come off only because the oil pump produces pressure because of the engine running.
 

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When you say it doesn't sound right when turning over, that worries me a bit. Do you still have compression? People often say their engine "sounds different while cranking" when the valvetrain bites the dust. I hope that isn't the case. Perhaps it is just turning slowly due to a weak battery?
How could the valve train slow down the cranking speed? I very well see why valves that are not closing correctly rends difficult the starting but not the cranking speed.
A recent thread shows that damaged connecting rods bearing bushes slow down the crank speed as well as the thrust necessary to rotate the crankshaft by hand.
 

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What are you getting?

Starting System Symptoms:

Weak
battery symptoms:
-- Slow cranking.
-- Stops cranking suddenly on compression stroke with button pressed.
-- Starts when starter button is released at end of cranking.
Repair:
-- Charge/Test/Replace battery.
Failure Modes:
-- Loss of capacity. Appears to charge, voltage good but no reserve for starting.
-- Won't hold a charge.
-- Low voltage/cell failure.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Check fluid levels regularly
-- Maintain full charge: Regular riding, trickle charger.

Ignition Coil failure symptoms:
-- Hard starting/misfiring during cranking.
-- Rough idle that can't be tuned out with carb adjustments and carb cleaning.
-- Idle misfire clears with new sparkplugs, returns in a few hundred miles
Repair:
-- Replace: Preferably with Nology for higher reliability than stock Gill coils.
Failure Mode:
-- Shorted turns in secondary resulting in weak spark.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None
Testing:

Pickup Coil failure symptoms:
-- No spark at all
-- Spark quits with engine hot, returns when engine cool.
-- Note: Pickup coil failure is total. There is no random misfire spark loss.
Repair:
-- Replace pickup coil
Failure mode:
-- Thermal intermittant with long (15-30 minute) period.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None. Get a spare.
Testing:
-- Ohms checks hot and cold.

Worn starter symptoms:
-- Sometimes won't crank until the bike is rocked in gear.
-- Excessively noisy cranking with a grinding sound.
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
Failure Mode:
-- Brush wear progressing to commutator damage.
-- Bearing failure related to brush wear.
Repair:
-- Rebuild or replace.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.
-- Crank 5-10 seconds at a time max., switch off for twice as long before cranking again.

Worn sprag clutch symptoms:
-- Very loud rattling when cranking
-- Starter spins but engine doesn't turn
Falure Mode:
-- Breakage
Repair:
-- Replace sprag clutch
Preventative Maintenance:
-- Maintain battery in peak condition.
-- Follow proper starting procedures. Neutral, clutch in.

Worn starter solenoid:
-- Click from under seat but no cranking.
-- Won't crank after rocking bike.
-- Starter continues to run after bike starts and won't stop until the battery is disconnected.
Failure mode:
-- Internal contact damage resulting in non-conduction.
-- Internal contact damage resulting in contacts welding shut.
-- Internal damage/wear prevents solenoid core movement.
Preventative Maintenance:
-- None.
Repair:
-- Replace starter solenoid.
Testing:
-- For no cranking, short across solenoid high-power terminals. Normal operation denotes failed solenoid contacts.


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Discussion Starter #13
I'm going to replace the oil pressure switch/sensor to see if that makes any difference,process of elimination I suppose! Got to be something electrical,bike was running perfectly ok before this problem started. Bike is in regular use and has had no issues prior to this.
 

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Please note that whenever the battery voltage drops bellow a certain value say 11V the bike stalls because the ECU shuts down or reboot.
Some time ago I did this vid:
not sure we can see all the dash lights but some of them.
 

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I'm going to replace the oil pressure switch/sensor to see if that makes any difference,process of elimination I suppose! Got to be something electrical,bike was running perfectly ok before this problem started. Bike is in regular use and has had no issues prior to this.
Very unlikely that the oil pressure switch is causing your start problem. Have you cleaned the CPS? They have been known to foul and cause hard or no starts.
 
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