Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner

1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
All,

In these troubled times, I have an additional worry.

On my 2001 Triumph Sprint 955i I have now had 3 failures of the clutch lifter arm. Each time the failure has occurred in the same place. Each arm has lasted a very short amount of time, the last one survived a quick check ride before failure.

I've now tried 2 different sets of plates and replacement steel rings, but something is causing this to fail. The clutch does feel very stiff to operate, but has always been the case (as with all Sprints so I've heard). I've had the bike 6 years now and this issue has been around for the last 6 months, so frustration abound!

Has anyone experienced something similar before? I've heard the 1050 arm will fit a 955i with some fettling, and is made of a stronger material, if that's the case it may be my next move...

Any thoughts greatly appreciated!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Have you replaced the lifter itself? The shaft that the lever pulls on to lift the pressure plate releasing the clutch. Also is the bearing in the pressure plate possibly bad?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Paul,

Thanks for the reply.

The lifter has been replaced once, and I have replaced the pressure plate bearings as it did feel slightly 'notchy' previously. I was thinking would lighter springs possibly help, obviously I then have the risk of a binding clutch.

Running low on ideas sadly!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Have you replaced clutch cable? Possibly binding up keeping too much tension on clutch arm even tho you have freeplay up at handlebar lever?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
Not heard of this before. I wonder if Triumph changed the design a little and the two parts are no longer compatible. Might be worth scouring the parts list to check and maybe buy a new lifter arm and pull rod as a set.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
@Paul Dunn : Good idea, it's probably due a replacement anyway so will do.

@Terry Colley : Both the lifter and pull rod have been changed, with the spec from the right VIN series, yet the problem remains.


I think my next course of action will be to replace the arm again, get a new clutch cable (suggestions welcome on supplier for that) and to be extra gentle with adjustment so that the arm doesn't get subjected to too much twisting load.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Are you the original owner?
If not, check that the clutch springs haven’t been changed to stiffer ones.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
@SprintOz Thanks for the suggestion. Although I'm not the original owner, I have used the bike for 7 years (35,000 miles or so) without any issues and I've not changed the clutch springs. I assume that as springs age, they should weaken? If that's not right then it may be an idea to change them for a new set.

As a separate idea, I have used some pretty cheap/carp oil previously, could this cause 'sticktion' between the plates making the force required to pull them apart higher, leading to a failure? At the moment there's some fairly decent stuff in there, but waiting on the replacement lifter arm to arrive in the post. Plenty of time to play with before being allowed out on it, so welcome to any suggestions!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
So here is a normal clutch arm.
721471


Yours seems to be twisted. Like the bottom part is going before the pull rod end while the upper part was going behind (has it should).

721472


What amount of free play do you have between the clutch arm and the clutch cover bore? Isn't it excessive?

I found this old thread about clutch arm but unsure it's of some help.

Sure your clutch arm is shot. Can you barrow an endoscope to anybody do check what's going on? You can use the oil dipstick hole.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
@fredsprint I hadn't noticed the twist in the old arm previously until your red circle, so thanks for pointing that out. The arm in the picture was totally shot, and I have replaced it once already. The area which should have hooked around the puller had sheared away, leaving me with two neat pieces of metal in the sump. I'm now waiting on a second replacement to arrive to refit.

Good idea with the endoscope, maybe now is the right time to grab a cheap one off eBay and to have a poke around. There isn't much free-play between the arm and the cover hole, it doesn't seem excessive.

I've had a look at that old thread previously. I tried to track down one of the 'newer' arms, but with no joy. I found one for £60, but I'm reluctant to spend that much on a part I'm 50/50 will survive more than 5 mins of riding.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
I just found this picture (sorry I didn't remember the arrangement inside the cover) that clearly shows that an endoscope would be useless as one can't see the tip of the pull rod. Could it be that the pull rod (the part that pulls the clutch basket) is not long enough, of the seal too thick. Or even the cover not the exact dimension.

721473
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for finding that, shame as I've been looking for an excuse to buy an endoscope! Maybe I still will for fun...

I've got a replacement pull rod in the system after one broke previously, but I still had a failure of the lifter arm. It could be that the cover is no good and has become deformed somehow?

The change previously 6 months ago was a set of new clutch plates. I have now reverted back to an old set, but alas the problem remains for now.

When I put the bike back together for the next test, the following will be applied:

New lifter arm.
Older, known good clutch plates.
Replacement clutch pressure plate and bearings.
Better quality oil.
New clutch cable.
New gear change pedal rubber (maybe the bike will feel loved, and give up the fight :unsure: )

Hopefully the combination of the above will lead to a positive result.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,980 Posts
Don't know whether that matters or not but a second thing I noted on your clutch is the last friction plate (the most outside) is not positioned the same way.
Here is one picture taken from a video related to 1050 clutch:

721474
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
According to the Haynes manual, the last plate should be fitted into the shallower slots as I have done on mine. Apparently that's the case on both the Gen1 and Gen2 versions of the Sprint.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
It's possible, but I hope not.

I didn't have anything left at the end once putting it back together which is usually a good sign.
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top