Spring swap in fork
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Rappid, if not familiar with working on bikes, I'd suggest taking it to your shop.
If, on the other hand, you're insistent upon taking this task on, get the shop manual first and follow the instructions explicitly. I learned personally about forks by taking my old bikes apart and of course occassionally things would "pop" out at me and I'd have to figure our what went [email protected]#$%
If you plunge ahead, jack up the front-end and just start removing "things" from the top that are not holding fork springs in their natural residence. And get ready to drip fork oil all over the place. See, it's easy.
Good luck, kjazz
If, on the other hand, you're insistent upon taking this task on, get the shop manual first and follow the instructions explicitly. I learned personally about forks by taking my old bikes apart and of course occassionally things would "pop" out at me and I'd have to figure our what went [email protected]#$%
If you plunge ahead, jack up the front-end and just start removing "things" from the top that are not holding fork springs in their natural residence. And get ready to drip fork oil all over the place. See, it's easy.
Good luck, kjazz
thanx for the insight....i have been learning a lot on bikes. I have been doin all the work myself and have not ran into any trouble yet eventhough i have never worked on bikes before. I have been doing extensive mechanical work with cars for 5 years so i think that helps a bit. I just always imagined an easy way of going at the front forks and i hope someone can share the secret before i take a hack at it. thank you.
Hey Rabbid,
Take a stab at the search function as I myself have asked this very question. (There should be a few threads that pop up & my name will stuck right in the middle of some of the recent ones.)
I did the fork springs on my Thruxton in an afternoon by jacking the bike up & removing the fork legs one at a time. (I followed the manuals directions to the letter.)
If need be I can scan the manual pages for you so you arent diving in blind.
(It was extremely easy BTW.)
[ This message was edited by: tham on 2006-11-06 17:42 ]
Take a stab at the search function as I myself have asked this very question. (There should be a few threads that pop up & my name will stuck right in the middle of some of the recent ones.)
I did the fork springs on my Thruxton in an afternoon by jacking the bike up & removing the fork legs one at a time. (I followed the manuals directions to the letter.)
If need be I can scan the manual pages for you so you arent diving in blind.
(It was extremely easy BTW.)
[ This message was edited by: tham on 2006-11-06 17:42 ]
It's not difficult and it's even easier with the Haynes manual. Buy it it's well worth it.
Rabbid -- changing the fork springs and oil is a fairly easy procedure -- but be sure to read the disclaimer at the end of this post.
1) Remove the front wheel -- put something between the brake pads to keep them from being pushed together if you accidentally nudge the brake lever.
2) Carefully remove the caps from the tops of the forks -- they're under pressure from the springs, so be prepared for them to fly off at you if you're not careful.
3) Unscrew the bolts on the bottoms of the forks (up inside, just above where the axle goes) -- these hold the damper rods in place, but also allow the fork oil to be drained. Make sure that you have a pan underneath to catch the oil before loosening these bolts. Also, in order to get the bolts out you'll probably need to put a little pressure on the fork internals -- just push down a little on the spacer sitting on top of the spring.
4) Remove the spacer and fish out the spring using a bent piece of wire; repeat on the other fork.
5) Insert the new spring into each fork -- if it's a progressive-wound spring, put the tighter-wound end at the top to reduce unsprung weight. You may or may not need to reuse the stock spacer (or part of it), depending on what kind of fork spring you're using -- I used Ikon springs, which are long enough that no spacer is required.
6) Reinsert the bolts into the bottoms of the forks -- again, you'll need to put a little downward pressure on the fork internals by pressing down a bit on the springs. Tighten to the correct torque spec.
7) Put the correct amount of oil in each fork leg -- I'd recommend measuring the amount that drained from the forks, then dividing it in half to get the amount for each fork. I ended up putting about 450ml of oil in each fork leg.
8) Reinstall the cap on the top of each fork leg and tighten to the correct torque spec.
9) Reinstall front wheel.
Disclaimer: I'm describing the procedure I used (and that was recommended to me by my dealer). There are more scientifically correct ways to do it. Many people prefer to remove the fork legs from the triple tree and simply invert them to drain them (in which case you never need to mess with the bolt on the bottom of each fork, or even remove the front wheel, really). Also, if you want to be anal about getting the amount of fork oil just right, you can get yourself a measuring tool that you insert into the fork leg to determine the right level. However, the method I used worked great for me and was a lot quicker and easier to do in my driveway than the fork-removal method. As always, YMMV.
--mark
1) Remove the front wheel -- put something between the brake pads to keep them from being pushed together if you accidentally nudge the brake lever.
2) Carefully remove the caps from the tops of the forks -- they're under pressure from the springs, so be prepared for them to fly off at you if you're not careful.
3) Unscrew the bolts on the bottoms of the forks (up inside, just above where the axle goes) -- these hold the damper rods in place, but also allow the fork oil to be drained. Make sure that you have a pan underneath to catch the oil before loosening these bolts. Also, in order to get the bolts out you'll probably need to put a little pressure on the fork internals -- just push down a little on the spacer sitting on top of the spring.
4) Remove the spacer and fish out the spring using a bent piece of wire; repeat on the other fork.
5) Insert the new spring into each fork -- if it's a progressive-wound spring, put the tighter-wound end at the top to reduce unsprung weight. You may or may not need to reuse the stock spacer (or part of it), depending on what kind of fork spring you're using -- I used Ikon springs, which are long enough that no spacer is required.
6) Reinsert the bolts into the bottoms of the forks -- again, you'll need to put a little downward pressure on the fork internals by pressing down a bit on the springs. Tighten to the correct torque spec.
7) Put the correct amount of oil in each fork leg -- I'd recommend measuring the amount that drained from the forks, then dividing it in half to get the amount for each fork. I ended up putting about 450ml of oil in each fork leg.
8) Reinstall the cap on the top of each fork leg and tighten to the correct torque spec.
9) Reinstall front wheel.
Disclaimer: I'm describing the procedure I used (and that was recommended to me by my dealer). There are more scientifically correct ways to do it. Many people prefer to remove the fork legs from the triple tree and simply invert them to drain them (in which case you never need to mess with the bolt on the bottom of each fork, or even remove the front wheel, really). Also, if you want to be anal about getting the amount of fork oil just right, you can get yourself a measuring tool that you insert into the fork leg to determine the right level. However, the method I used worked great for me and was a lot quicker and easier to do in my driveway than the fork-removal method. As always, YMMV.
--mark
Hey everyone,
I really appreciate all the help! and thank you mark.....dont worry i will not hold anyone responsible if i screw somthing up. In the end thats how you learn.......hopefully i wont have to screw somthing up on the fork to learn :razz:
I really appreciate all the help! and thank you mark.....dont worry i will not hold anyone responsible if i screw somthing up. In the end thats how you learn.......hopefully i wont have to screw somthing up on the fork to learn :razz:
On 2006-11-07 10:56, markbvt wrote:
Rabbid -- changing the fork springs and oil is a fairly easy procedure -- but be sure to read the disclaimer at the end of this post.
1) Remove the front wheel -- put something between the brake pads to keep them from being pushed together if you accidentally nudge the brake lever.
2) Carefully remove the caps from the tops of the forks -- they're under pressure from the springs, so be prepared for them to fly off at you if you're not careful.
3) Unscrew the bolts on the bottoms of the forks (up inside, just above where the axle goes) -- these hold the damper rods in place, but also allow the fork oil to be drained. Make sure that you have a pan underneath to catch the oil before loosening these bolts. Also, in order to get the bolts out you'll probably need to put a little pressure on the fork internals -- just push down a little on the spacer sitting on top of the spring.
4) Remove the spacer and fish out the spring using a bent piece of wire; repeat on the other fork.
5) Insert the new spring into each fork -- if it's a progressive-wound spring, put the tighter-wound end at the top to reduce unsprung weight. You may or may not need to reuse the stock spacer (or part of it), depending on what kind of fork spring you're using -- I used Ikon springs, which are long enough that no spacer is required.
6) Reinsert the bolts into the bottoms of the forks -- again, you'll need to put a little downward pressure on the fork internals by pressing down a bit on the springs. Tighten to the correct torque spec.
7) Put the correct amount of oil in each fork leg -- I'd recommend measuring the amount that drained from the forks, then dividing it in half to get the amount for each fork. I ended up putting about 450ml of oil in each fork leg.
8) Reinstall the cap on the top of each fork leg and tighten to the correct torque spec.
9) Reinstall front wheel.
Disclaimer: I'm describing the procedure I used (and that was recommended to me by my dealer). There are more scientifically correct ways to do it. Many people prefer to remove the fork legs from the triple tree and simply invert them to drain them (in which case you never need to mess with the bolt on the bottom of each fork, or even remove the front wheel, really). Also, if you want to be anal about getting the amount of fork oil just right, you can get yourself a measuring tool that you insert into the fork leg to determine the right level. However, the method I used worked great for me and was a lot quicker and easier to do in my driveway than the fork-removal method. As always, YMMV.
--mark
Hey mark i had a question for you since your using the same springs as me. i did not use the spacer when i installed the Ikon springs but i noticed that even with the preload completely tightened there is a very slight gap between the preload bolt/cap and the spring. is this ok? shoucl i cut the old spacer and make a small one? also i was not able to tighten the bolt on the botton right leg that drains the oil and hold the damper in place. any hints on how to tighten that thing? i alreadyput in the spring and fork oil and its not leaking but i can turn it forever and it wont tighten.
thanks again!
Yeah, I'd cut the spacer down if I were you. I didn't have that problem at all on my Bonneville -- the spring was long enough to put a little pressure on the cap even at full extension.On 2006-11-09 10:27, rabbid wrote:
Hey mark i had a question for you since your using the same springs as me. i did not use the spacer when i installed the Ikon springs but i noticed that even with the preload completely tightened there is a very slight gap between the preload bolt/cap and the spring. is this ok? shoucl i cut the old spacer and make a small one?
But before you do that you might want to set the preload halfway and ride the bike a bit to see how the front suspension feels. If it feels like it needs more preload, then add a small spacer, but if it feels like it actually needs less preload, you might want to just leave it without the spacer.
It might be a little harder now that there's oil in the fork leg to lubricate the bolt. It sounds like the fork internals are spinning, so you'll need to apply more pressure to them to hold them in place while tightening the bolt. Try pushing down on the fork spring with the stock spacer. If you still can't get the bolt tight, try draining the oil, then trying again.also i was not able to tighten the bolt on the botton right leg that drains the oil and hold the damper in place. any hints on how to tighten that thing? i alreadyput in the spring and fork oil and its not leaking but i can turn it forever and it wont tighten.
--mark
Hey Rabbid,
I had to cut my stock spacers.
Spring Spacer info
You will end up backing your pre load out all the way & still have some adjustment available.
You should be able to adjust the pre load in to get some pressure on the internals.
Good luck & enjoy your new springs....I love mine.
I had to cut my stock spacers.
Spring Spacer info
You will end up backing your pre load out all the way & still have some adjustment available.
You should be able to adjust the pre load in to get some pressure on the internals.
Good luck & enjoy your new springs....I love mine.
Check out progressive suspension and XS11.com. Good stuff there. I presume the Thrux has a similar fork as my TBS and no drain plug?! After removing the cap (pressing down while removing will save you a lost cap, poke in the eye, etc -- not that great a pressure). Remove one leg (saves worrying about the headlight), reinstall prior to removing the other leg. Turn upside down and drain into an oil drain pan. Pump it a few times to work the oil out.
Refill as the manual states (the other sites will give you a good idea of static height, pay attention to the with or without spring height). You will probably want to increase your oil weight. Pump the forks a few times to work the air out.
Before begining, measure your 'static' height. Then after the new springs, then think about spacer cutting after a tank or two of break in (the springs will probalby settle a bit -- see the above web sites and more).
This is all in addition to whatever the manual states. It is a lot easier than you might think after you go through the steps. Don't get any oil on your brakes. It's okay to remove the calipers (tie them off to the handlebar, etc).
Add some sort of fork tube protectors (neoprene, plastic shield, gaitors) to save you any nicks in the chrome down the road.
Refill as the manual states (the other sites will give you a good idea of static height, pay attention to the with or without spring height). You will probably want to increase your oil weight. Pump the forks a few times to work the air out.
Before begining, measure your 'static' height. Then after the new springs, then think about spacer cutting after a tank or two of break in (the springs will probalby settle a bit -- see the above web sites and more).
This is all in addition to whatever the manual states. It is a lot easier than you might think after you go through the steps. Don't get any oil on your brakes. It's okay to remove the calipers (tie them off to the handlebar, etc).
Add some sort of fork tube protectors (neoprene, plastic shield, gaitors) to save you any nicks in the chrome down the road.
Well guys looks like i learned my valuable lesson! i guess w/o the spacer the forks get far too bouncy. the story goes like this........i was taking a turn at about 50mph when i hit a small bump of asphalt. my front wheel started fish tailing out of control and bouncing all over the place. i tried taking control of the bike but didnt have the strength. thats when i said forget this and ditched the bike to avoid a high side fall. in the end i got up with a load of bloody cuts, bruises, 3 day long head ache, and swollen hand. the bike has a punctured clutch cover, broken mirror, clutch handlebar lever, broken shifter, broken headlight/turn signal switches, dented headlight, and destroyed muffler. other than that everything is just dandy! going to spend a lot of long nights in the garage doin the repairs.
btw i was hoping someone can give me some advise on what to do differenty besides the spacers. thanks!
You absolutely need spacers in a Thruxton. You shorten the existing spacers by the exact amount of difference in length between the stock springs and the Ikons. Your instructions explained that, (or at least mine did). Putting it together without them effectively dropped your front suspension length by about three inches, leaving you with about one inch travel. After harshly botomming out, you rebounded to the top of travel faster than the fork could respond and the tire left the ground. When it came down, it was probably slightly off line and started the tank-slapper you describe. Tank-slappers are hard to correct even when your suspension is working properly. Result?-crash! Suspension and brakes are the two maintenance items requiring exact adherence to instructions. The first part I buy for any bike is the factory shop manual.
Rabbid,
sorry to hear about your crash....I hope everything mends correctly.
It sounds like you inadvertantly quickened your steering by lowering the front end slightly (among the other issues described above)
I am a firm believer in doing things properly.
Take your bike in & have the suspension set up correctly.
Take care & be safe!
sorry to hear about your crash....I hope everything mends correctly.
It sounds like you inadvertantly quickened your steering by lowering the front end slightly (among the other issues described above)
I am a firm believer in doing things properly.
Take your bike in & have the suspension set up correctly.
Take care & be safe!
Thanx for the advice you guys! I wish my new springs came with intructions....but all i got were some stickers and 2 springs wraped in newspaper......i am planing on making my bike mobile again and fixing the springs based on your advise, then ride to the dealership to have i all checked out. at the time of the crash i was riding very aggressivly. I definitly wont do the same on the way to the shop.On 2006-11-14 17:20, tcb wrote:
You absolutely need spacers in a Thruxton. You shorten the existing spacers by the exact amount of difference in length between the stock springs and the Ikons. Your instructions explained that, (or at least mine did). Putting it together without them effectively dropped your front suspension length by about three inches, leaving you with about one inch travel. After harshly botomming out, you rebounded to the top of travel faster than the fork could respond and the tire left the ground. When it came down, it was probably slightly off line and started the tank-slapper you describe. Tank-slappers are hard to correct even when your suspension is working properly. Result?-crash! Suspension and brakes are the two maintenance items requiring exact adherence to instructions. The first part I buy for any bike is the factory shop manual.
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