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Discussion Starter #1
Calling all do it yourself spray painters...I'm painting my Headlight Bucket & Handlebars and could use some advice.

I've Primed (3 coats w/400 or 800 grit inbetween coats) and painted (3-4 coats with High Gloss Black w/800 grit inbetween the first 2 coats) and I now have a good looking 4th coat of High Gloss Black that i could just roll with but i really want these puppies to shine!

1st--Should I hit the High Gloss with a 1500 Grit before i Clear Coat, or should i skip the 1500 and just hit it with Clear Coat?

2nd--When it comes to the Clear Coats (2-3 coats)...should i hit'em with 1500 grit inbetween coats or just polish (Mothers Step 1, 2, & 3) after the final coat has dried?

Thanks,
Steve
 

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Preparation is the key to a fine paint job. Sand before clear and between coats, then color sand. They'll gleam!
 

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what sweat said... spray can clear coats always seem to yellow.

however, if you let the paint cure for a week or so, you can then buff the paint out really well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
what sweat said... spray can clear coats always seem to yellow.

however, if you let the paint cure for a week or so, you can then buff the paint out really well.
From what i've read on both this site, google, and at duplicolor, they claim that the Clear Coat will yellow if it is in direct sunlight before it has cured completely.

I'm leaning towards the clear coat, but i'm still not 100% sold.
 

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powder coat it and forget about it.it will look good forever.if you know any one getting some bits done ask if you can send it along with theirs the cost wont be much as part of a batch.
 

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Get a black tube of Meguiar's Swirl Remover and a light cut Meguiar's foam buffing wheel. After the black has cured for at least a week, chuck the foam wheel into a 600 rpm drill and polish that black coat. It'll gleam.
For me the secret to a great clear coat was to apply three coats of it while the gloss black was just flashing off so the coats bonded (it wasn't lacquer which melts into any undercoat). Then followed by 1500 grit and the Meguiar's procedure.
 

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in my experience, spray clearcoats suck. If I get good results with a high-gloss black spray paint I leave it alone, no sand, no buff, no clear.
Always yellows and actually reduces the "gloss" to more of a shimer? I agree with Sweat...
 

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powder coat it and forget about it.it will look good forever.if you know any one getting some bits done ask if you can send it along with theirs the cost wont be much as part of a batch.
Worth every penny! And will last for a very long time...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Powder Coating is out of the question because there are 2 small dents that i had to bondo.

I guess i'll hit it with a 1500grit, then 2 more quick coats of high gloss black.

Let it cure and buff the **** out of it with mothers 3 step.

If that doesnt work, then i'll bust out the clear coat and give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
There are so many ridges on this headlight bucket that is is **** near impossible to wet sand w/1500 grit and not get to bare metal in a just a few passes.

I've decided to just let it cure, hit it with mothers 1-3 and hope for the best.


Is 4 days enough for the paint to cure (inside my apartment at 65-75 degrees and hardley any humidity)?
 

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I've had good luck combining the sprays, i.e., Clear Coat AND Gloss Black at the same time.
Note that I've only done this on smaller projects - brackets, side covers, frame, etc. I've never tried a rattle can job on a tank.

I HAVE painted whole cars and trucks, but that's for a different story, and does not apply here. We're talking about rattle cans for this thread!

Major Disclaimer: Try this on an experimental Project first!!!

First you give the project a few VERY thin mist coats of the black, wait a few minutes for it to get tacky...

Then have one spray can in each hand, alternate between Black and Clear, ending with more clear being sprayed than black.

Pause every 20 seconds or so, and let it dry a little to get tacky. 5 or six thin coats, after letting each successive one tack up, is much better than 1 or 2 thick coats.

Always wet sand with some type of backing, rubber pad, foam rubber, etc. Your fingers or palm make a bad backing.

"Color Sanding" is wet sanding very carefully with 1500 to 2000 grit paper, checking your work constantly, the idea being to achieve a mirror smooth finish - no orange peel, runs, high/low spots. This is followed by polishing with compound, swirl remover and glaze polish. Stay away from corners and sharp edges, as these areas tend to hold thinner amounts of paint.

The result will be a foot deep, see yourself good enough to shave by, shiny. Again, practice on something unimportant, as it does take a little practice. Worst case? Strip it down and try again. Not the end of the world.
 
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