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Have a 95 Speed Triple, sprag clutch has gone. Anybody got any information/tips on replacing it. Photo's would be useful.
Can this be done with the engine in the frame? turning the bike upside down suspended from block and tackle. Any help with replacing this part would be much appreciated.

Thanks Rupert :hammer:
 
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A search for earlier threads should provide much info on the sprag replacement.

Here is a link from one of those threads that has a series of step-by-step photos. I printed these photos out and they were very useful to me when I replaced my sprag.

Sprag replacement photos

Note: I didn't take these photos - but many thanks to the fellow T-bird owner that did.

[ This message was edited by: robsmoto on 2007-06-17 08:29 ]
 
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Thanks robsmoto,
They look good photo's should help. Will have a good look at them before I start.
 

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Those are Stan's pics (member id sware) - he did his sprag around the same time I did mine.

I honestly can't think of any benefit from inverting the bike and I can think of lots of disadvantages including dropping fluids all over the bike - no matter how careful you are, there are some left in the engine and ancillaries. Not to mention the impracticality of inverting a 250Kg bike!

Dropping the engine is not that bad a deal - I did mine on my own using a bike stand and a bike jack under the engine. But you could do it without all that if you have a mate to help you.
 
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I couldn't find the original post containing the link to the photos. If someone can post a link to that forum article it would be useful. In the original thread there were lists of the parts needed to complete the job.
 

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On 2007-06-18 16:25, robsmoto wrote:
I couldn't find the original post containing the link to the photos. If someone can post a link to that forum article it would be useful. In the original thread there were lists of the parts needed to complete the job.
There are pictures here:
http://www.triumphrat.net/modules.php?set_albumName=album473&id=aan&op=modload&name=Photo_Album&file=index&include=view_photo.php

and here:
http://www.triumphrat.net/modules.php?set_albumName=album281&id=aac&op=modload&name=Photo_Album&file=index&include=view_photo.php

and here:
http://stanware.digoxy.com/imageupload/sprag sized/gallery12.htm

Here is the paghe you are looking for with parts etc.
http://www.triumphrat.net/modules.php?op=modload&name=Forum&file=viewtopic&topic=21170&forum=14

You don't really need to remove the clutch, water pump or rear sprocket.

[ This message was edited by: Crusader3020 on 2007-06-19 01:57 ]
 

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Starter Wire

Ok, I was told.. by who doesn't matter... that by changing the main starter wire the sprag issue is resolved. I put a #4 welding cable between the starter & relay(?). The old wire with white line..... was half yellow and very stiff on the starter end..as in half the damn thing was too hard to bend easy.
My TBird is at 9000 km...
So we shall see.
 

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Ok, I was told.. by who doesn't matter... that by changing the main starter wire the sprag issue is resolved. I put a #4 welding cable between the starter & relay(?). The old wire with white line..... was half yellow and very stiff on the starter end..as in half the damn thing was too hard to bend easy.
My TBird is at 9000 km...
So we shall see.
That actually makes sense because they say that the problem is caused initially by the starter turning too slowly - ie too little current getting through.
 

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Not Quite!

Ok, I was told.. by who doesn't matter... that by changing the main starter wire the sprag issue is resolved. I put a #4 welding cable between the starter & relay(?). The old wire with white line..... was half yellow and very stiff on the starter end..as in half the damn thing was too hard to bend easy.
My TBird is at 9000 km...
So we shall see.
The sprag clutch in our machines is a pretty solid piece of gear, but it has a weak link and that is the small diameter spring that actually engages the clutch. This spring can lose tension and thus when the starter button is pressed a fearful clattering is heard, the spring will not hold the sprags onto the starters hub and they flop around. The spring loses tension over time (some do, some don't) or because of the engine misfiring when trying to start, or in some cases break.
The spring can be replaced, usually with one out of a suitable sized oil seal, if it is clear that the mechanical parts of the clutch are okay, and they usually are if the problem is taken immediate notice of.
The starter motor will only draw so much current and in my view the factory gauge wiring is more than sufficient for purpose.
In saying all that though, given the OP's bike is a 95', it may not have the later model stronger clutch, many of which were replaced under Triumph warranty.
 

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If you're changing the sprag, think about changing the gear indicator plate at the same time.........the older bikes have a tendency to lose the neutral light when warm and the time to sort it is when you do the sprag.

Rob
 

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Does the balancer shaft have to be removed when doing the sprag? Engines out and crankcase cover is all undone, not sure what else has got to come off before casing will release.

Also whats happened to the photo gallery? Its a dead link now.

Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers.
 

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Also whats happened to the photo gallery? Its a dead link now.
I reuploaded the photos to imgur, hopefully he doesn't mind:
Sprag

I did the spragjob myself this summer. Pictures helped but you really need the haynes manual with the torque values and bolt tightening sequences.
 

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Does the balancer shaft have to be removed when doing the sprag? Engines out and crankcase cover is all undone, not sure what else has got to come off before casing will release.

Also whats happened to the photo gallery? Its a dead link now.

Any advice would be appreciated. Cheers.
No, you don't have to touch the balancer shafts. Once you have all the engine side covers off, you just have to make sure you remove all the crankcase screws.
 

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That's excellent thanks both for the help. Have got a Haynes manual but think the photos will be a great help too :)


Sent from my iPad using MO Free
 

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I reuploaded the photos to imgur, hopefully he doesn't mind:
Sprag

I did the spragjob myself this summer. Pictures helped but you really need the haynes manual with the torque values and bolt tightening sequences.
You legend, and Stan (@Sware) these photos were extremely helpful last week when I had to repair my sprag. Thank you so much
 
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