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Haynes says the clutch pushrod seal MUST be renewed - is this usually done? Same with alternator and starter seals?

Do I really have to remove the water pump?

It has been claimed that the clutch can remain in situ, which is fine. But why would I then have to remove the friction and steel plates? Can't it come off complete?

Can the balancer shafts remain in place?

Can the spring around the sprag be made too strong as long as it fits without overstretching?

My plan is to get the engine out as undisturbed as possible, remove the engine covers that cross over both crankcase halves, whip out the gearbox shafts, remove the !"&#& sprag unit, split it, fit a smaller/stronger spring and bolt everything back up with as little work and fuss as I can make without doing a sloppy job.

Doable?
 

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Hi,

From my experience of changing the sprag clutch last year:
I didn't change the pushrod seal (I actually forgot to order it)
I did remove the water pump - I can't remember why you have too though.
I left the clutch in place but removed the friction plates, it allows the gears to be rotated when re-assembling and reduces some of the engine mass when lifting out of the frame.
I didn't even take the cover off the balancer shafts, let alone remove them.
The next question I can't help you with since I bought a new sprag clutch.

Best of luck with the change, let me know if you have any other questions.
 

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Cheers, mate, useful reply :thumbsup:

I'm leaving for my summer vacation this Saturday, so I won't be able to do much other than take the engine out of the frame before we leave, but I'm trying to obtain as much information as possible so that I'm ready for the engine strip when I get home.

The weight of the engine doesn't worry me, I plan to take it out of the frame in one piece and dismantle it on the bench. I knew weightlifting would come in handy one day :laughhard:

If anybody else have more information/tips/hints/suggestions, I'm grateful!
 

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I also wonder why must the starter come off? It doesn't seem to prevent removal of the sprag from the pictures I've seen?
 

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The removal and re-insertion of the sprag clutch is somewhat fiddly since it is quite deep in the engine casing, the time saved not removing the starter would probably be wasted on re-assembly.
 

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I won't have to fix the sprag - the engine is kaput. There is a HUGE coolant leak out of cylinder number two. Instead, I'll fit a Daytona engine known to be good.
 

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It worked!

What a great thread! I just did this last night. Took 45 min, and saved me $2000 that the workshop wanted! I sould have taken photos to post, but the description here is good enough. I was lucky enough to have a late 2003 S3 and didnt need to remove motor. If you ever come to Sydney, i'm buying you a beer or 30! Thanks Again!
 

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That's an entirely different engine, isn't it? How did you access the sprag on that one?
 

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If any other part of the sprag clutch let loose in your engine, you would most likely find shattered gears(not just teeth) in the oil sump.
This is good advice!
When my sprag went many years ago I took it back to the stealer for what I thought would be a relatively simple repair. After I got over the shock of learning they had to remove the engine and split the cases to fix the sprag, they then told me that a circlip had come adrift and found its way into the gearbox doing a nice little dance over most of the cogs and destroying them. I recently came across the invoice for this job and those gearbox parts are bloody expensive! A $3000 gearbox rebuild later I was back on the road.
So if you're doing you own sprag replacement, have good look around while you're in there for anything that might be floating around and doing damage.
Syd.
 

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Update

The sprag fix lasted about a week. I took ti apart and did it again with a new spring, but this one only lasted a few days? The springs seem to be holding tension when I take the sprag apart. Is there something else I can do to ensure the oblong bearings bite? Should I scuff the inside of the housing?

Thanks,

Andrew.
 

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Ok guys here is the thing. I got my sprag clutch apart and the wire that is holding 16 bits together is snaped exactly where is joint like there wasn't enough loctite or something to hold the joint together. it all looks in order and without damage so can i just replace that spring wire instead of whole clutch??? I've read something about 1.2 and 1.5 mm difference but still where else would you found that apart from front forks oil seal, that haven't got one laying around at the moment. could some one ask around and point me to the right contact and i'm happy to pay all expenses if can someone send me that wire???
 

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I replaced the spring in mine last week. I went to a local bearing\transmission distributer and checked out a few oil seals. Settled on a 45 - 62- 07. It had a 1.5mm bore on the spring but fitted into the slots quite well. (std size measured at 1.2mm) The seal cost me £2.91

The other size (for the other size of clutch with 51T) mentioned in this thread is 55 - 75 - 10mm.

Hope this helps.
 

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Doh!! Wish I'd found this thread a couple of weeks ago!! But, I did keep the old sprag, so I'll definately have a tinker with that. Thanks for the great info.
 

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That's what i tought from begining. why replace whole of the element because of a faulty wire or spring. BTW guys i live in uk, Cambridge but i come from Slovenia so i'm sorry for spelling some times. I hope more people read this instead forking out 149 £ everytime sprag goes wrong.in my case it'l cost me £3 instead. I dont think Triumph has been fair not to advise othewise but hey i still like the bike as it is. in 3 years i had it and its 15 years old bike, this is firs time it gave me something to work on and have so called cost. I swear to god i had never had any trouble with it. and now i have to spend £3 pounds so be it LOL.
 

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I did do this fix to a friends bike. We found a spring that was a bit too tight ( it was tricky to get it on). It failed a day or 2 later. I'm sure we would have had a good fix if he had been patient. Make sure the spring is snug, not tight. It should quite easily fit and gently snap into place but not so tight as to fight it into place. Too tight it will fail....take your time find the right spring.....The rest of the job was your basic teardown/rebuild of the bottom end...

Mike
 

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I've just done this sprag repair; as Triumph Australia don't stock anything for these bikes, I was looking at a 4 week wait for a new sprag and a gasket set at $2200 to $2500 fitted. I used a little care with the gaskets tearing the engine down, then an oil resistant RTV silastic for re-assembly. Job done for $150 including oil and coolant. I then got to find a bad connection causing an intermittent misfire on #2 cylinder. The bike has been started well over 100 times since re-assembly and starts just like it always has. Thank you so much for this thread. It needs to be stickied.
 
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