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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've tried to split the filter housing, but I can't get the Large Phillip's head screws off of the ends. It feels like the screw threads have striped out the housing threads-but no gaps?

:mad: :mad:

(I hate using emoticons)

Zip
 
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I pulled out the spare airbox I have in the closet, but it's not stripped. I assume you're talking about the screws midway up on the left & right? Mine have a rim on them, can you get a fingernail or a flathead screwdriver under there? If so, you could probably put some kind of glue/epoxy/gunk into the hole before you button it back up; the screws are coarse enough to do some minor self-tapping duties.

:hammer: :-D :razz: :cool:

(Sorry, couldn't resist!)

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah, the ones on the "port" and "starboard" side.

These buggers are not budging! They turn, but nothing gets any looser. I'm leary of prying the body as I think it will crack.

Is it worth it (K&N)?

Stock runs well...

Zip
 
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Having been an IT professional for 10 years now, my general feeling is definitely along the lines of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

I read one account on the web of Tiger engine failure that someone blamed on the K&N filter, saying the particles it allowed through were too big. The guy came off like a bit of a wingnut, but I've also seen hard data that says oiled cotton filters (like K&Ns) pass much larger particles than oiled foam filters (like stock or Uni). IIRC, oiled paper filters block the most grit, but they also pass hardly any air. Oiled foam is almost as good at catching grit as paper, but passes way more air. Oiled cotton passes more air than any other filter, but passes more grit by a big margin. Stacks, of course, pass the most air & let all the grit through as well. This is all from my memory, so take it with a grain of salt (or a bottle of Newcastle!). Anyway, what I got from the scientific article was that foam catches almost as much grit as paper, but passes almost as much air as cotton. Hence, I'm sticking with stock.

That being said, filters do get dirty & need cleaning. It may well be worth it to take the airbox apart & clean the filter. Uni cleaner & oil is the right stuff to use on the stock filter.

Sorry if it's not what you want to ear, but if your airbox is on the verge of cracking it's probably time to replace it. I'd give it a try. If it doesn't crack & you get the screws out, clean & oil the stock filter & button it back up. If it does crack, get a new one.

HTH,
-Kit
 

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I've been thinking about this some lately. K&N does not require a jet change if you change to thier filter. This would indicate to me that it does not flow any more air than stock. If it did it would change the mixture sufficiently to require a increase in fuel. It certainly does not filter as well. We can see that by just looking at them side by side. I took the K&N out of mine this year. I have a very dusty climate here and I don't want to risk engine damage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Gentlemen,
All good points, I think I'm going to stay with the stock.

I'd love to tinker, but the old girl is my daily rider, so I haven't the time.

Zip
 

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Sure know what that's like Zip ! Some 25 years back I used to commute 103 miles a day on an old Yamaha TX 500. At that time, anything to keep it ready for another day. Today my bike is just for play so I get to experiment a lot. It's been out of service for the winter while I tried some new things with the airbox and jetting. Got it running last weekend and took it out sans bodywork. Seems to run great. Maybe I'll get the "skin" back on her this weekend. L-R
 

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On 2007-03-02 16:12, Lone-Rider wrote:
Removed the Aux. airboxes, snorkel etc. and rejetted. May need a little more "fiddling" but it's in the ballpark for sure.
Just an FYI, the guys with dynos have discovered that this is all good stuff to leave on the bike. However, going with fatter main jets is a good thing to do on a US spec bike.
 

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Just an FYI, the guys with dynos have discovered that this is all good stuff to leave on the bike. However, going with fatter main jets is a good thing to do on a US spec bike.
[/quote] What size fatter main jets are recommended? :hammer:
 

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With all the plumbing in place, about 127.5-125-127.5 should be close. Running like I am...137.5-135-137.5 ...I know..."You can't do that !"
 

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I went up just one size mains in my Keihin carbs, 125-120-125. I may rejet once I get my 3 into 1 exhaust welded together.

There is an ebay buy it now auction for the K&N TB-9091 for $29.95 +$10 shipping. As of this writing he has 74 of them. He also has a slew of the 9097 which is a Sprint ST filter.

nullK&N TB-9091 air filter auction



[ This message was edited by: sailfish on 2007-03-05 09:50 ]
 

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That actually sounds about right for stock mufflers. The next step or two up with a pipe. I tend to break all the rules when it comes to these things [I've been turning wrenches since the late 50's]. By the time you make a few mods that enhance each other well, most of the rules no longer apply.
 

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Just an update on the airbox modification mentioned above. I finally found time to put this thing together and get some riding time in. I thought it was going to be a little rich, but that's not the case. Once the weather warmed up, all seems great. I did lower the needles to 2 notches from the top. I don't have a dyno available but from the saddle, it rips !!
I removed the side airboxes. I used epoxy to attach some coarse screen wire to the intakes on the main airbox to keep the bugs out.

Main jets: 137.5-135-137.5
Pilot jets: 40 @ 2.75 turns out
Stock needles @ 2 notches from the top
Stock filter.
 
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