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Discussion Starter #1
My speedo & odo have gone tango uniform for no apparent reason.

This morning, I went from Brooklyn to Midtown via the Queensboro Bridge. It was as traffic-free as I've ever seen it, & I recall thinking that my speed was the fastest I had ever seen on that bridge.

After that appointment, I had another 30 blocks south. I noticed shortly after takeoff that I seemed to be moving rather briskly for the 0MPH indicated by the speedo. I turned the display from time to trip 1, & noted that my progress from 5th Avenue to the West Side Highway did not register even a tenth.

I had a quick peek at the speedo drive: the cable appeared to be connected as usual, but I may be out of my depth here. Any of my previous bikes would have a broken speedo cable for these symptoms, but I don't know what to do to troubleshoot my electronic Sprint.

It may or may not be worth noting that my radar detector rebooted a couple of times, seemingly randomly. Same goes for the fact that this was the first electric vest day of the Winter, & the vest was shutting off as well. (It always has.)

Anybody got any pointers for me? I'd like to get this resolved with as little time standing in the cold as possible...

Thanks,
-Kit
 

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A couple of possibilities Kit

1) There was a 'check' feature in the gen 2 955's that would shut off the speedo in a low battery voltage detection - this was subsequently disabled in later version of tune - by 2004, I would not expect this to be your cause.

2) The wire could be broken down by the speed sender immediately where it exits the device - possibility.

3) The sender drive magnet is broken &/or disengaged - if you've had the wheel off recently, this is your most likely (virtually certain) cause.
 

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I'll second the broken magnet and pickup at the front wheel.

I recently had a tire change, and the speedo was squirrley for a few days. It finally "fixed itself" and has been fine ever since.

Maybe give it a few days to work itself out before spending over $100 on a new sensor.

While you are at it, take the bike to an exorcist for some needed de-bugging.
 

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My 2004 has the low battery "feature". If the battery is low the speedo doesn't work to alert you to the bad battery situation.

What I do if I've forgotten to use the tender is fire up the starter and let it crank a few times, then turn the key all the way off for a second, then back on and hit the starter again. You could also start it, let it run for a minute, then turn it off and back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the input, y'all. I had no idea about the low battery warning thing!

The speedo acting up after I changed the tire is an eminently plausible theory, but 2 months after seemed a little weird...

Turns out my 2004, manufactured in May of 2003, does have the low battery "feature," despite my being under the impression that it has the latest tune. Apparently, turning the vest on before turning the bike on was enough to kick it into warning mode.

Thanks again,
-Kit
 

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Make sure your battery terminals are tight. My '02 ST had some funny speedo fluctuations a while back, it turns out the battery leads were loose.

Incidentally, the latest tune for the '02-'04 ST hasn't been updated since 2004. I checked, last time I did work at my old dealership early this year.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, guys.

DeCosse, I was soooooooo close to having a TuneBoy a couple weeks ago... Still painful to think about, but I may be able to swing it as a Christmas present for myself.

Radix, I see that now. I think from now on it'll be starter, then accessories.

Stiles, thanks for saying that. I was meaning to check 'cause it happened a second time, & now that I think about it I think that could be causing this slight hesitation/miss thing I've been noticing lately...

Cheers,
-Kit
 

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...DeCosse, I was soooooooo close to having a TuneBoy a couple weeks ago... Still painful to think about, but I may be able to swing it as a Christmas present for myself....
The diagnostic part of the TuneBoy kit is incredibly under-rated feature, Kit - most (non-users) seem to associate Tuneboy value only in uploading a custom tune. The diagnostic screens, where you have real-time data on every sensor, is a really valuable tool. It's a worthy piece of equipment. I actually leave my Tuneboy cable attached to the bike all the time and the USB termination resides under the rear seat/hump for easy access.



(note however that the speed sensor error check is actually a map function that can be disabled in TuneEdit, not diagnostic)
 

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Speedo/Tach disabled due to check feature.

I bought a 2001 Sprint RS with a non functioning speedo/tach/odometer. I checked the pickup magnet at the front wheel and it was not broken, so I cleaned and greased it and carefully reassembled everything. The battery was replaced and reads within specs.
A thread from a week ago from Decosse about a "check feature" that shuts off the speedo/tach/odo was intriguing. Is all it takes to make all function well again is a fresh battery? Or is there more to resetting the the 'check feature' than that? The bike performs well other than this problem.
Say all it takes is to install a fresh battery to make all well again and if the other info such as engine coolant temp and oil pressure light works, would the only source of the problem then be the ECM, providing the connections are good?
 

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...A thread from a week ago from Decosse about a "check feature" that shuts off the speedo/tach/odo was intriguing. Is all it takes to make all function well again is a fresh battery? ...
Don't believe that generation had that feature marinerbiker -

You say
...I bought a 2001 Sprint RS with a non functioning speedo/tach/odometer....
Can you confim if you really meant tach is not functioning either? (speedo & odo clearly go together, but tach is whole separate drive)
If so, this is not a speedo drive sender issue.

Do you have anything functioning on the instrument cluster? Background lights? 'Idiot' warning lights? (high beam, neutral, oil pressure, ignition etc)

Unfortunately I don't have a schematic for your model - start with basic things like the connector plug into the panel fuses etc (although doubtful if this a fuse issue)
 

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that speedo thing

Yep, the speedo feature is a common thing. My 03 RS has it and I'll admit that it isn't a bad thing when it works the way you would hope, which apparently is when the bike has less than 30,000km on it.

It alerted me to the fact that I had an ongoing stator problem that wasn't charging the battery properly. So that's a good thing.... And when it works in conjunction with the 'limp home' function... then that's a good thing too.

But ever since I passed the 30,000km mark (and maybe there's some inherent design for obsolesence there) the speedo only works intermittently. And as time has passed it has gotten worse.

The dealership just pretend they've never heard of such a problem, but I know at least three other owners who have experienced the exact same thing and it wasn't the magnets.

A friend of mine with an 03 Daytona actually had the instrument binnacle completely replaced; which worked for about 6 months before going back to it's old ways.... The scary thing is he is an A grade auto electrician and he couldn't initially diagnose a solution either. The only thing that I can suggest, and this is what he did, was run more direct current from the battery into the fuse box. Don't ask me what that means exactly because I'm not the auto electrician, but that's what he did, and it fixed the problem.

Of course turning the bike over without all of your accessories on is the first step that you should take...but if that doesn't work try any number of the previously mentioned options from other replies.

The one that 'usually' works for me is if I turn the bike over with the lights off, then just before the '0' appears on the screen flick the headlights on. I don't know why this works...it just does (most of the time!):)
 

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Answer for DEcosse

Thanks for the reply. Yes Sir, neither the speedo nor tach nor odo read. Odo reads 7,330, NO change after riding. It is digital. Clock, Coolant temp Hi/Lo beam, oil press lights ARE functional. As I said before, the bike performs well other than not knowing how fast, far, or rpm. I really do prefer a fully functional IP. Have checked panel connector plug and contact prongs looked bright and clean. Also checked lead connector plug from speedo pickup at wheel and it looked fine. I have a multi meter and Haynes Manual with the applicable wireing diag. I have about exhausted my troubleshots.
 

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...neither the speedo nor tach nor odo read. ..
The tach not working takes you away from any speedo sender issues - I'd be looking for a basic power line missing - let me see if anyone can dig up a schematic I can look at for you.

...I have a multi meter and Haynes Manual with the applicable wireing diag. ...
The power line goes in on the orange wire - pin # 5 of the intrument panel plug - pull the connector & see if you have +12V there.
Check with respect to the black wire on pin 8.

In your manual cct diagram follow the line back from pin #5 until it gets to the power source (it's Orange on Daytona, not sure if same colour on the Sprint panel)

Do the background panel lights work?
Does your Horn work?
 

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Background panel lights do work on both the speedo and tach, hi/lo beam, lo fuel, oil press idiot lights work. Horn works.
Should I still run the tests you suggest?
 

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Background panel lights do work on both the speedo and tach, hi/lo beam, lo fuel, oil press idiot lights work. Horn works.
Should I still run the tests you suggest?
All of the above are separate functions from the speedo & tach functions - the background lights were just to see if the ground return signal was present and in the horn case, at least on my Daytona, the power is common after the fuse (Shown by the brown line below) .
Yes, need to check for +12V on the panel connector.
You should be able to trace that line back on your schematic to find the source by the fuse panel - the one attached is from my Daytona but yours will likely be slightly different - just to give you an idea what you're looking for – I have highlighted it in orange.
If there is any way you can publish your own Sprint schematic, I can help you further.


 

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Discussion Starter #20
Just to follow up on the original problem...

I tightened the battery terminals; they were only maybe an eighth to a quarter turn loose. It was okay for a day or so, then it went to zero again, then okay again. It's been okay since. My theory is that it was loose enough that it was not always charging.

The only thing I don't understand is that it's never taken more than 2, *maybe* 3 seconds to start.

Cheers,
-Kit
 
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