Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part of this month's Bike of the Month Challenge!

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just put on a pair of shorty slashed, no baffle pipes on my 2007 Speedmaster. It sounds good, a little loud but OK. I am now getting some backfiring when shifting or throttle off. I know they say you should re-jet the carbs when you remove the baffle or change to open pipes, but would the lack of re-jetting create a backfire, or is it just that the back pressure is not being caught, re-distributed due to the open pipes? Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
I'd try adjusting the fuel/air mix more rich and see how that works.

You shouldn't need to rejet unless you messed with the intake as well as the exhuast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Back Fire - Popping Sound

I'd try adjusting the fuel/air mix more rich and see how that works.

You shouldn't need to rejet unless you messed with the intake as well as the exhuast.
Thanks. I believe a little adjustment to the carbs may do the trick. The Re-jetting was brought up solely based on the fact that when ever you consider purchasing new - open type pipes from Triumph they suggest buying and installing the re jet kit....many thanks to all who responded.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Triumph has the air/fuel mixture extremely lean to begin with, so adding less restrictive exhaust only intensifies the lean burn, thus the backfiring. You need to richen the mixture to eliminate the backfire, or else you may damage your valves or airbox.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Adjusting Carbs

I'd try adjusting the fuel/air mix more rich and see how that works.

You shouldn't need to rejet unless you messed with the intake as well as the exhuast.
Thanks. Any tips or where to start when adjusting these carbs., hate to take it to the shop just for that...they probably will just try to sell me a re jet kit.

Hey, another crazy thing happen, maybe somebody has some ideas. Went to change the rear turn signals with some smaller, retro Drag Specialty lights...no big task. Original ones have two wires, new ones have two wires. Took the old ones off, just exchange wires...now front one doesn't work (checked bulb, it is good), and when I put the right one one, it blinks extremely fast...? Any suggested, both on the carbs, now the the turn signals, appreciate it...thanks.
 

·
Premium Member
2004 Daytona 955i, 2018 Indian Roadmaster, 1980 CB650C in resto
Joined
·
17,810 Posts
The fast blinking is a design feature. If one of your blinkers isn't working, the blink rate will double. As for why it's not working, try putting the old one back on and see if it works. If not, the wiring harness may be the problem. If it does, put the new one back on and see if it works this time. If not, the new one has a problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The fast blinking is a design feature. If one of your blinkers isn't working, the blink rate will double. As for why it's not working, try putting the old one back on and see if it works. If not, the wiring harness may be the problem. If it does, put the new one back on and see if it works this time. If not, the new one has a problem.
Well, we are thinking along the same lines....I did that, but only put one on just to check the circuit (wiring), but I just gave up last night, came in and watched a little TV then hit the sack. After a few beers and listening to the Cleveland Indians loose to the Yankees while working on the bike, I just gave up. Going back in the garage later today and try re-installing originals and see what happens. Thanks for the reply, and I will let the readers know. Later
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Turn Signal Mystery

The fast blinking is a design feature. If one of your blinkers isn't working, the blink rate will double. As for why it's not working, try putting the old one back on and see if it works. If not, the wiring harness may be the problem. If it does, put the new one back on and see if it works this time. If not, the new one has a problem.
Well, went back out to the garage....removed the old ones, put the originals back on....same thing, left front would not work, other front would, and both backs, but no left...checked bulb it was good. So while I was putting in the bulb in the front after checking it, it started. Seemed that, and I did nothing with the front at all, didn't touch them, but apparently there is a slight short in the connection. I moved the wiring right where the front turn connects and it started to work..put the custom / retro ones on, both front and back work fine, but even with the mini custom ones on the turn signals blink twice as fast as if the originals, larger one were one. Wonder if it has something to do with the larger ones drawing more amps than the small retro ones...anyway, all is well, working fine, thanks for the input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Thanks. Any tips or where to start when adjusting these carbs., hate to take it to the shop just for that...they probably will just try to sell me a re jet kit.
I'd be interested in this too. I bought a used Speedmaster a few months ago. The previous owner put OEM pipes on, but I don't know which ones. He also installed the FREAK airbox removal kit. I think all this might have something to do with the backfiring I'm getting. It's not often... I get little "mini-backfires" when engine braking, and every now and then, when I pull in the clutch for a stop light or something ( sometimes when starting it) I get a LOUD backfire. Any suggestions on how to fix this?

Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Back Fire - Popping Sound

The entire popping or mini backfires I believe is associated with the carburetion, which changes once the baffle free or straight pipes are put on. I am going to attempt to adjust the carbs, without rejetting and see what happens. As for removing the air box, not sure if this will affect the carburation or not....anybody have any comments, I would appreciate it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Once you start messing around with the "air in" or "air out" you'll start getting some popping.

If you just put pipes on, you shouldn't need to rejet, but you'll get some popping. It can be made better by adjusting the air/fuel mix, but not eliminated.

If you remove the airbox, you're going to need to rejet the carbs.

You'll never eliminate all the popping unless you go back to the stock setup.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Straight Pipe Popping

Well, I don't want to disagree with you, so let me ask: Why when you order a number of the "louder" pipes right from Triumph...they state that re-jetting would be required. Then there are other non-Triumph pipes (louder) that advertise the fact that re-jetting is not required. When I ask these suppliers why no re-jetting they say that it is due to the fact that their pipes do not remove all of the restrictor plates where as the re-jetting would be required. Again, this is not an argument or disagreement, just attempting to fully understand: 1. When or why re-jetting is required when adding certain pipes, and 2. What is gained by removing the air box as so many do.

Thanks for any input.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
685 Posts
Backfiring....popping

Firstly it seems a very common issue with these bikes and it is not regarded as a "problem". Have a listen to the sound file on the new Thunderbird (Triumph site) it sounds much the same but beefier..

I put freer flowing pipes on and my bike ran like a dog with three legs...So I opened up the intake hole after removing the snorkel and all is good. Suggest opening the hole a bit at a time until you get the best result, I went too far and had to then rejet.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top