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Discussion Starter #306
Put a Corbin seat on and I'm very happy with it, a huge improvement in comfort and ergonomics. They say it takes 1000 miles to break in so I'm eager to see what the next 950 miles bring.

View attachment 720818
Looks real good! What materials did you go with? And how’s the room by the subframe. I have some saddle bags for mine on the way and I’ll need them to work together.
 

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Looks real good! What materials did you go with? And how’s the room by the subframe. I have some saddle bags for mine on the way and I’ll need them to work together.
It's leather on the seat, vinyl tail, and grabber on the sides. The workmanship is top-notch, though it took a lot of pressure to get it to latch the first time. As for your saddle bags, do you have a link to what you ordered? I can take a look at the attachment and send you some more detailed pics of my seat and subframe.
 

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Front, rear turn signals and tail light upgrade completed.

Analog Motor Goods LED Signal Pods in the front, and Rizoma Club signals in the rear along with Euro spec tail light.










Warning: Video has adult language - The Big Lebowski playing in the background.

 

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Discussion Starter #309
It's leather on the seat, vinyl tail, and grabber on the sides. The workmanship is top-notch, though it took a lot of pressure to get it to latch the first time. As for your saddle bags, do you have a link to what you ordered? I can take a look at the attachment and send you some more detailed pics of my seat and subframe.
I was thinking about the grabber is it grippy?

These are the bag mount I have on order.

 

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Looks real good! What materials did you go with? And how’s the room by the subframe. I have some saddle bags for mine on the way and I’ll need them to work together.
I can comment here, I have a new Corbin (love it!!) and racks. Basically they will work together but needs some simple DIY modification to the Corbin. The rim at the tail section on the Corbin base is about an inch narrower than the rim on the standard seat pan - see pics below. It is this rim on the Corbin that fouls the rack mounts. Very simple fix is to drill out the small upholstery rivets in the area, trim away the rim slightly (with dremmel etc) and then stretch the vinyl back on a bit and re-rivet. I haven't done it yet but have modified just about every seat on every bike I've owned. Will post more pics when done.


720882


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It's leather on the seat, vinyl tail, and grabber on the sides. The workmanship is top-notch, though it took a lot of pressure to get it to latch the first time. As for your saddle bags, do you have a link to what you ordered? I can take a look at the attachment and send you some more detailed pics of my seat and subframe.
The trick to getting Corbin seats to latch when new is: unbolt the latch 'ring' or 'hoop' on the Corbin, put a couple of washers under it and then bolt it back on. This effectively makes the 'hoop' longer and less pressure required to get it to latch. Also reduces the risk of if you do actually manage to ram the seat on when new (it takes a lot of force!) you risk being unable to get it off again as the key operated mechanism simply cant put enough force on the very strained latch. In time the rubber bungs/pads on the base of the Corbin will soften or squish a bit and then you can take a washer or two out. Oh and grease the hoop and all of the latch mechanism too! With all of the above done it's rock solid and easy on and easy off without breaking something.

Oh and another small trick for anyone on the cusp of a Corbin, you can reduce the risk of the seat marking the paint on your tank by simply bending the for-mentioned 'ring', 'hoop' forward slightly, this has the effect of pulling the seat back slightly away from your tank. Not wanting to sound like a know-it-all, hope this helps others heading down the same track, cheers.
 

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Discussion Starter #312
The trick to getting Corbin seats to latch when new is: unbolt the latch 'ring' or 'hoop' on the Corbin, put a couple of washers under it and then bolt it back on. This effectively makes the 'hoop' longer and less pressure required to get it to latch. Also reduces the risk of if you do actually manage to ram the seat on when new (it takes a lot of force!) you risk being unable to get it off again as the key operated mechanism simply cant put enough force on the very strained latch. In time the rubber bungs/pads on the base of the Corbin will soften or squish a bit and then you can take a washer or two out. Oh and grease the hoop and all of the latch mechanism too! With all of the above done it's rock solid and easy on and easy off without breaking something.

Oh and another small trick for anyone on the cusp of a Corbin, you can reduce the risk of the seat marking the paint on your tank by simply bending the for-mentioned 'ring', 'hoop' forward slightly, this has the effect of pulling the seat back slightly away from your tank. Not wanting to sound like a know-it-all, hope this helps others heading down the same track, cheers.
Which seat style do you have? I had seen a YouTube video detailing that issue with the “gunfighter and lady” which had ruled that seat out already. I’m looking at the “Gunfighter” which doesn’t seem to come down as far over the frame rail.
 

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I was thinking about the grabber is it grippy?
It's a nice grippy material, yes, but the part of the seat that has it (the side) isn't very thick where it matters down by your crotch so likely you won't benefit from it. But it looks good and is probably very durable so I don't regret the decision.
The trick to getting Corbin seats to latch when new is: unbolt the latch 'ring' or 'hoop' on the Corbin, put a couple of washers under it and then bolt it back on. This effectively makes the 'hoop' longer and less pressure required to get it to latch. Also reduces the risk of if you do actually manage to ram the seat on when new (it takes a lot of force!) you risk being unable to get it off again as the key operated mechanism simply cant put enough force on the very strained latch. In time the rubber bungs/pads on the base of the Corbin will soften or squish a bit and then you can take a washer or two out. Oh and grease the hoop and all of the latch mechanism too! With all of the above done it's rock solid and easy on and easy off without breaking something.

Oh and another small trick for anyone on the cusp of a Corbin, you can reduce the risk of the seat marking the paint on your tank by simply bending the for-mentioned 'ring', 'hoop' forward slightly, this has the effect of pulling the seat back slightly away from your tank. Not wanting to sound like a know-it-all, hope this helps others heading down the same track, cheers.
Excellent tips, thank you. Hopefully I can get the seat back off after shoving it on there.
 

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Put a Corbin seat on and I'm very happy with it, a huge improvement in comfort and ergonomics. They say it takes 1000 miles to break in so I'm eager to see what the next 950 miles bring.

View attachment 720818
That Corbin looks great!
 

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Which seat style do you have? I had seen a YouTube video detailing that issue with the “gunfighter and lady” which had ruled that seat out already. I’m looking at the “Gunfighter” which doesn’t seem to come down as far over the frame rail.
Which seat style do you have? I had seen a YouTube video detailing that issue with the “gunfighter and lady” which had ruled that seat out already. I’m looking at the “Gunfighter” which doesn’t seem to come down as far over the frame rail.
I have a gunfighter and lady but had Corbin heavily modify the foam to suit the lines of the bike more (in my view) while still maintaining two up capability. I assume the YouTube video you are referring to is that of Adam Croll, nice guy but in my view he is not really someone to go by in terms of bike mods and compatibility, watch his video while he changes his shocks, I cringe as I watch a brand new bike being scratched and butchered by his fails - again, nice guy and there are good things you can pick up from his videos.

I think you'll find that the base of both Corbin offerings is the same, only the foam is different, neither go far down on the subframe, it's just the little bit that does go down is narrower than the standard seat - it's this that fouls the rack bracket. If you want a two up Corbin seat, and use racks, don't rule the gunfighter and lady out, it's a very simple mod to make it work per my other post on this, or take it to someone who can do it for you. Stay safe, cheers.
 

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GP (reverse) shift pattern... clubman handlebars, with flyscreen... higher speed gear ratio... (notes after my recent test ride)
 

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GP (reverse) shift pattern... clubman handlebars, with flyscreen... higher speed gear ratio... (notes after my recent test ride)
"Notes after my recent test ride" - does that mean the mods you've listed are things you'd like to do to a Speed Twin? - or mods you've actually done...?
 
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